1978 440, What plugs & Oil and what about the heat crossover.

[eliotmansfield]

Hello,
I'm rebuilding a 440 engine for a kit car, I recieved the engine with no spark plugs (and as a non runner) - therefore I have no idea what plugs to get. I have searched around, and seen champion BL-9Y mentioned - but these may be for the motorhome version? - my plugs come straight out not angled. Would prefer NGK cross-reference if possible.

I noticed that the new valley gasket blocks off the heat cross-over, whereas the old gasket had it open - Is this a problem ? (using a edelbrock performer 440 manifold)

Finally - what grade oil should it have?

I did buy the rebuild manual, but is doesn't list these service items. Engine is std, street use only. Photos of the engine/project can be found here:
http://www.mez.co.uk/440.html

Many thanks,
Eliot
www.mez.co.uk

[aifilaw]

Blocking the heat crossover is nothing but an enhancement, in driveability and performance. It's a mod most of us recommend. What spark plugs to get is a direct result of the dynamic compression ratio, I would suggest starting with a cheap stock plug, running it for a week and then pulling one. You should have direct heat darkening "black or brown color" assuming the tuning is correct for the A/F down about 2 threads, if its down more or less you need a hotter or colder spark plug.

Two options for oil, really three. There's been quite a few non-partisan complete oil and filter tests of all major brands, the last few have been unanimous, but its been about a year since I looked.

non-synthetic - Rotella 15W-40 is best
synthetic - Mobil 1

There is a zinc additive you buy in bulk from the dealerships, since all oil companies have removed it, and its nothing but good for your engine, you put a little in with every change... Don't recall the name of it, but someone will chime in.

If you want to not go trial by error, and try to derive plug heat range then you either need to know your static and dynamic compression ratio, or do a compression test on the engine.

[doctorpimp]

For a 78 440 with stock compression, I would start with Champion RJ14YC or NGK XR5.
The additive is GM EOS, available at any GM dealer. 
Don't know about the UK though...

[firefighter3931]

For a 78 440 with stock compression, I would start with Champion RJ14YC or NGK XR5.
The additive is GM EOS, available at any GM dealer. 
Don't know about the UK though...

The xr-5's (NGK) would be my choice with that engine combo. With the stock pistons your static compression ratio is gonna be quite low...somewhere in the 7.5-7.8 range. Be careful on the cam selection...if you go too big it will have no bottom end power. 

That's a neat looking rig....i like it !  One comment though ; your header tubes are very close to the brake booster/master cylinder. You should consider some type of heat shield/header wrap to keep the brake fluid from boiling.

Make sure you use good oil and an anti wear additive....very important, especially when breaking in the new cam and bearings/rings etc...



Ron

[eliotmansfield]

Thanks guys!
Compression is likely to be low, the pistons are flat-topped but dont come right to the top of the bore. Ive also used a fel-pro head gasket to replace the tin one, so its now even lower.

I received it non running on the back of a trailer and agreed to get it road-worthy again. The car wont be doing many miles as its just a show car for the guy who sells the Dakar conversion kits (the body). I run a twin turbo chevy in my one.


I read on another thread that the oil pump runs counter clockways, as I intend to prime the pump before starting in.

[doctorpimp]

I read on another thread that the oil pump runs counter clockways, as I intend to prime the pump before starting in.

Correct.

[eliotmansfield]

Back again.
Was priming the oil system yesterday - all seems fine, felt resistance as the pressure came up - oil pressure light goes out (oil pressure gauge not working, but I can see the resistance of the sender changing when i prime it with the drill) and I can hear oil within the engine.

BUT, I'm not seeing any oil around the rocker assemblies on either cylinder head - is this expected because the valve train isn't moving or is there a problem, blockage or misbuild?

Thanks,
Eliot.

[doctorpimp]

I learned this one here myself

In order to prime the rockers etc you have to turn the crankshaft VERY slowly while priming the engine.  The cam has an oil gallery drilled through it side to side, that only feeds the heads on rotation when the galleries line up.

[eliotmansfield]

Thanks for that - would never of guessed that one myself!