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my new toy :D and a question for Shelby Daytona owners

Started by alfanta, November 12, 2007, 09:49:18 AM

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alfanta

I just got a new toy this weekend.  :icon_smile_big:

its a 1989 Dodge daytona Shelby Z
2.2L turbo
90k miles
one owner car
interior is cherry, outside is workable, needs some work, but not too bad.
Engine turns over but doesnt fire. I think its fuel related, it seems like Im not getting fuel to the injectors.

$475

I will have pictures up tonight after I get home.

(any ideas why would be great)

71ChallengeHer


BrianShaughnessy

Have you tried turbododge.com?         

There's a schrader valve on the fuel rail to connect a fuel pressure guage.   The FP should turn on for a few seconds when you turn on the key.   It should be around 50 psi IIRC.   

T1 auto or T2 5 speed?   Either way,  this site isn't really up on these cars ...   I used to have several but I got out of it.   They're too much trouble to keep on the road up in the rust belt. 
Black Betty:  1969 Charger R/T - X9 440 six pack, TKO600 5 speed, 3.73 Dana 60.
Sinnamon:  1969 Charger R/T - T5 440, 727, 3.23 8 3/4 high school sweetheart.

alfanta

Im getting NO error codes for the car right now, I have done a little searching on turbododge.com, but everyone here has been so helpful I thought I would ask and see if anyone here knew off anything I should check.

it is the 5spd car, and I checked the schrader valve and there is NO pressure. Obviously the fuel pump isnt getting the fuel there, and now after looking some more online I have found that there is a sensor in the distributor that sends a signal to the computer and also primes the fuel pump. apparently when this fails it doesnt give an error code, and the car wont start. my other guess is there is a bad ground for the fuel pump. I havent been able to find a fuse for the fuel pump, I know it sounds stupid, but I looked through the wiring diagram and wasnt able to find one.

Also does anyone know (I know challengeher has a daughter with a shelby  ;)) if the power module goes bad on them often? Looking through the wiring the pump is wired through the power module, but i dont know if it would go bad.

The car had been sitting for about 5 years before it was put up for sale a month ago, and it was put on craigslist on friday and i snagged it quickly cause I wanted a fun car for summer, well one that gets acceptable gas mileage at least :yesnod:

Thanks for the help so far  :2thumbs:

BMOTOXSTAR

73' Dodge Rallye Charger 400/4BBL
06' Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4X4 HEMI
15' Dodge Dart 2.7 SXT

Brock Samson


hemihead

 Those have a fuel regulator also. The Pump is in the tank. Could be a bad ground. Did you check the timing belt?
Lots of people talkin' , few of them know
Soul of a woman was created below
  Led Zeppelin

71charger_fan

First rule out the Hall Effect pickup. I had several 2.2s over the years, turbo and non-turbo. If you need a new HEP, get it from the dealership. Experience has shown that, in this case, there really is a difference. Last time I bought one for a turbo was probably seven or eight years ago and they were about $50. If you need to replace the fuel pump, the "book" says to drop the tank. On my Daytona Pacifica I was able to swap pumps without dropping the tank.

kab69440

Out of the 11 various G body Daytonas I have owned all of them have required the replacement of the fuel filter at least once. One car out of those 11 required a new fuel pump. Check the fuel filter. I'll bet you a dollar that's what's wrong. They're cheap and easy to do.
Imagination was given to man to compensate him for what he is not;  a sense of humor to console him for what he is.      Francis Bacon

WANT TO BUY:
Looking for a CD by  'The Sub-Mersians'  entitled "Raw Love Songs From My Garage To Your Bedroom"

Also, any of the various surf-revival compilation albums this band has contributed to.
Thank you,    Kenny

Jesus drove a Honda. He wasn't proud of it, though...
John 12: 49     "...for I did not speak of my own Accord."

alfanta

ok guys, thank you all for the help. I just read what everyone has said since my last reply, and I did replace the Hall Effect Sensor. (I just got a new distributor b/c the old one had the screw hole for the cap stripped out)

Prior to that I didnt have spark. I have spark now. I had fuel the first time i cranked it, but no where near enough pressure. Ill change the filter durring lunch, and check the ground to the fuel pump. After that Ill check to see if the fuel pump is getting a signal. That should let me know if its the fuel pump or not.

Im pretty sure its not the timing belt, Im getting spark to every plug, and it appears as though the cam is moving properly. at least from what i can kinda see through the oil fill. I have no reason to believe its the timing belt yet.

The moment I get it moving ill take pictures I promise.  :yesnod:

If anything else comes to mind, ill check that after I get this stuff taken care of.
Thanks :cheers:

71ChallengeHer

Make sure if you need a fuel pump you get it from a dealer. A little pricey but I went thru a mess getting a fuel pump from Advanced and have had friends with the same problem. The Daytona isn't a Shelby but when the fuel pump went it was weird. The car would just shut off. I'd have it towed to the garage and it would start. Run ok, for a couple weeks and the same problem. It didn't throw any codes either. I almost bought an 89 Shelby but talked to my mechanic. They don't make any parts for the Shelby trannies. If the trans would go , you can replace it with any 2.2 trans.  A slight loss of power but no big deal. As far as gas mileage,I traded a 91 Shadow 2.5 Turbo on the Daytona. It got terrible gas mileage. And everytime I needed a part and said turbo. It seemed like the parts were more.  :shruggy: But I did beat a 5.0 Mustang with the Shadow. :2thumbs:

alfanta

ok, well its looking like mine is NOT a shelby. apparently the blue interior was not available in the 87 shelby cars, and mine is just a Turbo Z. Ill look into this more, but at this point thats the way it looks to me.

edit: well thats weird, according to the title it is a Shelby. Its painted blue and has a blue interior both were no longer options by the time this one came out. I dont know if the pop up headlights were available for the shelby ones. maybe its pieces and parts put together?  :shruggy:

Oh well... it will still be fun, im just curious now.

Is the vin code "A" the one for the shelby Z?

BrianShaughnessy

Carroll Shelby had nothing to do with the Daytona Z cars aside from collecting a check for using his name.      Calling them Shelby Z was sexier than Turbo Z which got confused with nissans anyway.

Aside from that there's 3 basic 5 speeds.   The oldest / weakest 525,   the 555 from the early shelby z's and finally the 568 from the later cars.  The 568 is considered the toughest.
Black Betty:  1969 Charger R/T - X9 440 six pack, TKO600 5 speed, 3.73 Dana 60.
Sinnamon:  1969 Charger R/T - T5 440, 727, 3.23 8 3/4 high school sweetheart.

alfanta

ok well new fuel filter did didly. still no fuel.

and I am getting spark, but very little. and its inconsistant.

Power module maybe?

Im startin to run out of ideas...

alfanta

 :brickwall: :brickwall: :brickwall:

spark plug snapped off in the head... looks like im pulling the head.

Too bad i dont NEED to pull the head as of now, and this has nothing to do with the problem.

moparstuart

  If u pull the  head  use factory head gasket and head bolt when reinstalling
the aftermarket ones are junk    always use mopar on 2.2 and 2.5 head gaskets

  I have  7 fwd  cars personally and i love them
GO SELL CRAZY SOMEWHERE ELSE WE ARE ALL STOCKED UP HERE

alfanta

the spark time delay relay is really hot, should it be that way? :-\

jmanscharger

Mine is electric fuel pump. If you turn the key do you hear it click? Mine is sometimes a problem no click no starting... Relay or pump?
1968 Silver Charger RT
1969 Yellow Charger 440
1969 Charger General Lee Replica (rescued W.VA car)
1970 Charger RT Daytona Replica
Previous Chargers Owned 66, 68(2), 69(2), 70(3)

alfanta

I donno, but right now i have to figure out how to get the spark plug out of the head. I really dont wanna tear into the motor like this... :brickwall:


71_deputy

from my manual for 89- check for 12 volts at the coil- gray wire- if not there is 2-3 relays on the left side of innear fender- one is for air cond, rad fan and asd-switch relays around and recheck voltage at coil.  power out of the asd feeds the coil, injectors, oxygen sensor, fuel pump and to the controller.

at the tank connections- two greys- ground, light blue tracer- visual guage, dark blue- to gauge, and dark green with black tracer- +12 volts

John Mac
1971 Deputy Challenger 383 4bbl-- 1 of 2 made!!
1967 Charger 440/auto
1973 Road Runner 340/4 speed
2000 1500 Ram Van

alfanta

Quote from: 71_deputy on November 13, 2007, 10:42:56 PM
from my manual for 89- check for 12 volts at the coil- gray wire- if not there is 2-3 relays on the left side of innear fender- one is for air cond, rad fan and asd-switch relays around and recheck voltage at coil.  power out of the asd feeds the coil, injectors, oxygen sensor, fuel pump and to the controller.

at the tank connections- two greys- ground, light blue tracer- visual guage, dark blue- to gauge, and dark green with black tracer- +12 volts

John Mac

Thats exactly what I started doing. Checking all the voltages. I have no power to the fuel pump or the coil. They come out of the power module in the same wire. The power module is ew, as is the coil, and the distributor. I will check the relays tonight. What ones do I need to check? and where are those ones? I was also told that there is an auto shutdown relay that is inside the kick panel on the passenger side. Could that be doing it? Thanks for your guys' help, I was up until 4am last night working on it and testing voltages, and towing it to my house.

71_deputy

not sure for your model for the asd location- but for a 89 Daytona it is on the left shock tower- clors for that relay should be...info from 89 manual

relay contact- red- from the white fusable link
                 - dark green to coil etc

coil of relay- dark blue with yellow tracer-  from controller- pin 1-58
               - dark blue with tracer-  from controller again- pins 1-12 & 2-3
1971 Deputy Challenger 383 4bbl-- 1 of 2 made!!
1967 Charger 440/auto
1973 Road Runner 340/4 speed
2000 1500 Ram Van

alfanta

the asd module is located within the power module which I have replaced... I have NO idea... gonna try some other random things see what I can get done.

NMike

try running a 12v supply to the pump directly to see if it is a fuel problem. if it does run, then you'll need a new computer. also make sure there is enough battery power during cranking for the starter and the fuel/electrical system

alfanta

the pump wont kick on even if i run a line directly from the battery. I dont have spark either. I guess thats what I get for installing an autoparts store Hall effect pickup.  :brickwall: Oh well. Ive got a new one being ordered from mopar.