stroking a 500 block

[firefighter3931]

Hey Ron , you got me stumped on the 'ICH' , is this a manifold/head kit?

Go on , you know you wanna talk about the new build. .........will help me a bundle.

Sorry Adam,

ICH stands for Indy Cylinder Head 

All their head castings are available in kit form which includes Heads, intake manifold, rockers, shafts, pushrods, valley cover, valve covers, head bolts etc...

The customer is also given the option of upgrading the ICH "stock" rocker arms which are a non rollerized fulcrum roller rocker very similar to the Crane Golds. For $300 extra you can upgrade to a fully rollerized rocker (T&D  ) which is normally a $1000 upgrade if purchased seperately. The heads of your choice purchased in "Kit" form with the T&D roller rockers is excellent value. 


My suggestion would be to purchase this from an Indy dealer (Dwayne @ PRH) and have him inspect everything closely before shipping across the pond. He in effect becomes your quality control representative and knowing Dwayne... if he sends it out it will be perfect....or it won't go out, period. 


Still working on the planning stages of my own build but i will say at this point that it's a street/strip 572 build that will run on pump swill. It will use the CNC 440-1 heads, a single plane with a 1050hp 4150 style carb, Solid Roller cam that will be "easy" on parts. Performance goal is 10.0 at the track on pump gas with no power adders. Talking with Dwayne he figures it will take a legitimate 750hp effort and everything else working "right" to make it happen. That means a well sorted suspension with Caltracs, good weight transfer, lots of fuel supply, enough stall to launch effectively etc....



Ron

[oldschool]

Hey Ron , you got me stumped on the 'ICH' , is this a manifold/head kit?

Go on , you know you wanna talk about the new build. .........will help me a bundle.

Sorry Adam,

ICH stands for Indy Cylinder Head 

All their head castings are available in kit form which includes Heads, intake manifold, rockers, shafts, pushrods, valley cover, valve covers, head bolts etc...

The customer is also given the option of upgrading the ICH "stock" rocker arms which are a non rollerized fulcrum roller rocker very similar to the Crane Golds. For $300 extra you can upgrade to a fully rollerized rocker (T&D  ) which is normally a $1000 upgrade if purchased seperately. The heads of your choice purchased in "Kit" form with the T&D roller rockers is excellent value. 


My suggestion would be to purchase this from an Indy dealer (Dwayne @ PRH) and have him inspect everything closely before shipping across the pond. He in effect becomes your quality control representative and knowing Dwayne... if he sends it out it will be perfect....or it won't go out, period. 


Still working on the planning stages of my own build but i will say at this point that it's a street/strip 572 build that will run on pump swill. It will use the CNC 440-1 heads, a single plane with a 1050hp 4150 style carb, Solid Roller cam that will be "easy" on parts. Performance goal is 10.0 at the track on pump gas with no power adders. Talking with Dwayne he figures it will take a legitimate 750hp effort and everything else working "right" to make it happen. That means a well sorted suspension with Caltracs, good weight transfer, lots of fuel supply, enough stall to launch effectively etc....



Ron

ron, on something differnt. what size wheels and drag radial are on the back of your charger? also why are you using -1 heads instead of 572-13,s? just curious. are you going to have the heads cut to use the jessel,s? also as a note,my 572 with 572-13 (365 cc) and a indy dual plane made right at 750 hp. with a indy single plane with a 2" spacer and a 1150 dominator it made about 840-850 hp. you will love driving it on the street,the low end torque is unreal ! good luck with your build.

[firefighter3931]

ron, on something differnt. what size wheels and drag radial are on the back of your charger? also why are you using -1 heads instead of 572-13,s? just curious. are you going to have the heads cut to use the jessel,s? also as a note,my 572 with 572-13 (365 cc) and a indy dual plane made right at 750 hp. with a indy single plane with a 2" spacer and a 1150 dominator it made about 840-850 hp. you will love driving it on the street,the low end torque is unreal ! good luck with your build.

OS,

The back tires are 295/65/15 BFG drag radials.....those are my street tires. I have another set of MT drag radials the same size that will be used for track days. The wheels are Weld Prostars.

The 440-1 heads are a better choice for my build....the low and mid lift numbers are much better than the 572-13 castings. I won't be running a super high lift cam. Trying to keep it reliable and as low maintenance as possible. The T&D rockers are what i will be using.

Not surprised to hear it picked up so much with the single plane and Dominator. 

Are you running the single plane and if so what hood scoop are you using ?

I'm thinking that it's looking like hood scoop time for me....can't see leaving 100hp on the table. 



Ron

[oldschool]

ron, on something differnt. what size wheels and drag radial are on the back of your charger? also why are you using -1 heads instead of 572-13,s? just curious. are you going to have the heads cut to use the jessel,s? also as a note,my 572 with 572-13 (365 cc) and a indy dual plane made right at 750 hp. with a indy single plane with a 2" spacer and a 1150 dominator it made about 840-850 hp. you will love driving it on the street,the low end torque is unreal ! good luck with your build.

OS,

The back tires are 295/65/15 BFG drag radials.....those are my street tires. I have another set of MT drag radials the same size that will be used for track days. The wheels are Weld Prostars.

The 440-1 heads are a better choice for my build....the low and mid lift numbers are much better than the 572-13 castings. I won't be running a super high lift cam. Trying to keep it reliable and as low maintenance as possible. The T&D rockers are what i will be using.

Not surprised to hear it picked up so much with the single plane and Dominator. 

Are you running the single plane and if so what hood scoop are you using ?

I'm thinking that it's looking like hood scoop time for me....can't see leaving 100hp on the table. 



Ron

i run both manifolds. i switch between the two.when i use the dualplane,its under the stock hood,for that sleeper look! when i use the singleplane i use a fiberglass hood with a built in 6 pack scoop. i think i got the hood from MAS. there sure is a BIG weight differnce between the two! the singleplane makes awesome power up top,and is faster overall.the dualplane really chokes it out at higher rpm,s ,but has more torque below 4000,than the singleplane. overall the dualplane has better driveabilty,but i sure miss the power! ron,the wheels and tires look really nice on your charger!   im going to get the same tires also,probably on wider magum 500,s. i also just got a 300 shot zex nitrous kit,cant wait to put that on,and hold on for some 1000 plus hp fun!      animal, did'nt mean to jack your thread,sorry

[firefighter3931]

i run both manifolds. i switch between the two.when i use the dualplane,its under the stock hood,for that sleeper look! when i use the singleplane i use a fiberglass hood with a built in 6 pack scoop. i think i got the hood from MAS. there sure is a BIG weight differnce between the two! the singleplane makes awesome power up top,and is faster overall.the dualplane really chokes it out at higher rpm,s ,but has more torque below 4000,than the singleplane. overall the dualplane has better driveabilty,but i sure miss the power! ron,the wheels and tires look really nice on your charger!   im going to get the same tires also,probably on wider magum 500,s. i also just got a 300 shot zex nitrous kit,cant wait to put that on,and hold on for some 1000 plus hp fun!      animal, did'nt mean to jack your thread,sorry

Thanks for the feedback OS....no doubt the dual plane creates gobs of torque at lower engine speeds on that cubic inch beast. I'm sure even with the single plane it's impossible to "hook" on the street. 


On the wheel/tire combo : what you see on mine is a 15x8 Prostar with 4.5in backspace. The 295/65's fit fine but there is a bit of tire bulge and when bolted on the car they are too close to the leafsprings. I have since added a 7/16 billet spacer and it is much better. My other wheels are 15x10 with 4.5 basckspace and those will work perfect with the MT drag radials. 

The BFG drag radials are a descent tire but even new there's not a lot of tread depth on them....i don't see them lasting a long time.    Another option which i Like better, for a true street tire that would be safe in wet/dry conditions is the Hoosier Pro-Street radial. The 29x12.50x15 on a 15x10 @ 4.5 backspace would give you the same look as mine but with better wet traction. 


Crikes....a 300hp kit on top of that 572 is gonna be downright insane !!!    I want a ride ! 

Any pics of your 70 you can share ?




Ron

[oldschool]

Here are a few pics of the cars....

[oldschool]

And when I want 100 more hp I use this manifold. And some more pics.....

[oldschool]

And a few of my 68 r/t.  And the Cudas.
All of these cars have 500" motors and the blue 70 has a 572" motor.

[oldschool]

And a few more....
I wish I had time to clean them up but I'm too busy driving the hell out of them!

[firefighter3931]

Thanks for posting the pics OS 

Any overheating issues with any of these cars ? How warm does the 572 run on the street ?


Thanks, Ron

[oldschool]

Thanks for posting the pics OS 

Any overheating issues with any of these cars ? How warm does the 572 run on the street ?


Thanks, Ron

ron,no overheating on any of them. the green car has a 22" radiator,it gets a little warm,but does not overheat. it cant idle for to long or it gets warm.as soon as you drive the temp drops fast.
the blue one with the 572" motor runs the coolest.i can idle around all day in stop and go traffic,on a 90* plus day and NEVER get above200*. as soon as i drive, it dives to 180*.
i use a mancini radiator with dual 1" tubes,a thermo clutch fan,and a fan shroud. NEVER a problem!

[firefighter3931]

ron,no overheating on any of them. the green car has a 22" radiator,it gets a little warm,but does not overheat. it cant idle for to long or it gets warm.as soon as you drive the temp drops fast.
the blue one with the 572" motor runs the coolest.i can idle around all day in stop and go traffic,on a 90* plus day and NEVER get above200*. as soon as i drive, it dives to 180*.
i use a mancini radiator with dual 1" tubes,a thermo clutch fan,and a fan shroud. NEVER a problem!

Thanks for the feedback OS  I just purchased a 26in aluminum rad similar to the Mancini stock replacement with dual 1in tubes. I tried test fitting a stock style viscous fan setup but the clearance was too tight to the rad core for my liking. Going electric with a thermal switch and see how that does.



Ron

[oldschool]

ron,no overheating on any of them. the green car has a 22" radiator,it gets a little warm,but does not overheat. it cant idle for to long or it gets warm.as soon as you drive the temp drops fast.
the blue one with the 572" motor runs the coolest.i can idle around all day in stop and go traffic,on a 90* plus day and NEVER get above200*. as soon as i drive, it dives to 180*.
i use a mancini radiator with dual 1" tubes,a thermo clutch fan,and a fan shroud. NEVER a problem!

Thanks for the feedback OS  I just purchased a 26in aluminum rad similar to the Mancini stock replacement with dual 1in tubes. I tried test fitting a stock style viscous fan setup but the clearance was too tight to the rad core for my liking. Going electric with a thermal switch and see how that does.



Ron

i had the same problem with mine. i found a new mopar thermo clutch fan on e-bay that has a much shorter shaft. its a mopar part. if needed i could get a part #.i think it is for a late model a body
i tried the dual electric fans,i did not like them.they pull alot of amps! makes it tough driving at night in stop and go traffic

[FLG]

Bigger alt and the electric fans are nice though. You dont hear the whirr of the clutch fan and though it might be minimal you are freeing up some HP. I went with dual 11" electrics on my 73, big amp pull from a stop but once there going it isnt too bad.

[Animal]

Picked up a megablock 602 with a spun rod bearing...........

Bore 4.560
Stoke 4.625
10.5.1 comp
Roller rockers
Callies crank
4 bolt mains
Jesel roller rocker valve gear.
Smith pushrods
Ross dished pistons.
Ex oiling with milodon swinging pickup. (will be changed to single line static pickup with different pan)
Jesel gear driven timing set.
Indy 572-13 heads CNC ported & blueprinted (not sure what the blueprint deal is)
Valve covers with spray bars
Cam specs..

Duration @ .050 int 274/ex 286.
lift 693/693 @1.5 rr
Spring pressure 275 seat/700 open.
Intake @ .050. opens 27* closes 67*
Exhaust @ .050 opens 81* closes 25*
114 lobe sep installed 110 CL.

Got the crank crack tested & all seems good , the machine shop will clean the mains & rod journals 10 thou as #6 rod journal is toast , also has a 4 thou runout , gonna replace all rods (7100) with K1s , looking forward to building this up.

Gonna swap the rings out with TS gapless 2nd & TNT tops for nitrous , any thoughts on this?

Think this motor was built for spray , i know the problem with the rollers Ron but is there anything i should do when on the street , will this last with a bit of street driving? , also what's your thoughts on the spring pressures?

Got 40 thou copper head gaskets on this thing without the block being O ringed , problem is i can't find a Felpro or like with a 4.560 bore size @ 40 thou , only 51 thou listed , don't really want to drop the CR , any thoughts on this?

Could'nt let this get away , real good quality parts in this thing , any thoughts on torque/HP?

TIA.

[oldschool]

good find with very good parts.i would guess hp around 850-900.the spring preasures are very close to what i run on my 572".they only last about a year,then they lose preasure.i found this out by droping a exhaust valve,from valve float.change them yearly and you should be good.

[firefighter3931]

That's a healthy engine. 

Judging by the wide split pattern cam it's definately set up for spray. Like OS said the valvetrain will be the biggest concern with those spring pressures. I would think yearly spring changes and roller lifter rebuilds will be part of the routine maintenance program. 

Depending on how well the heads flow it could make 850+ naturally aspirated and lots more on the juice. 

You're gonna need to do a bunch of chassis and drivetrain upgrades to the car to make it live at that power level...especially if you plan on racing. 



Ron

[Animal]

Got an indy intake with domi flange , really wanna stick with the M1 intake for hood clearance , the only way i can use the indy is to use a 4500 to 4150 adaptor , but this will not give me clearance unless i go reverse scoop  , also the indy is port matched , gonna have to go scoop methinks?

Any ideas on a carb? , was thinking 950 proform , or is there a 4500 that likes the street?

[firefighter3931]

Got an indy intake with domi flange , really wanna stick with the M1 intake for hood clearance , the only way i can use the indy is to use a 4500 to 4150 adaptor , but this will not give me clearance unless i go reverse scoop  , also the indy is port matched , gonna have to go scoop methinks?

Any ideas on a carb? , was thinking 950 proform , or is there a 4500 that likes the street?

The M1 is a standard port window so it won't work very well....definately a restriction on the intake side. I would use the ICH manifold with a Dominator like the one Oldschool uses pictured above. The AED pro-street Dominator is supposed to be very street friendly and that's the one i will run when the time comes. 

Time to start looking at hood scoops dude. 



Ron

[Animal]

Finally decided which way to go with this , although i'm gona leave some power on the table.

Gonna fit the 2" 4500/4150 adapter plate , reason being i can still use my existing NX 6 stage nitrous plate (4150 flange) , will also go for a reverse scoop , i've heard the ideal clearance between air filter to hood should be around 4" , any thoughts?

How much higher do the -13 heads sit as opposed to the E heads , need to work out a height for the scoop , my thoughts are 3/4" on the heads , 1/4" higher on the indy as opposed to the M1 , 2" for the  spacer & 1" extra on the new air filter.

So a scoop with a height of around 6" should do , although only giving me around 2" clearance between filter & underside scoop , might pinch an 1" if i take the hood thickness into account , as i'm real close @ the moment with the M1 & 1" NX plate.

[Animal]

Seems the difference between gaskets is around .3 cr , so no big deal , gonna go with the 4500 & pick up a 4500 NX plate , seems the logical way to go , just waiting for parts & the machine shop to finish crank & block.

Looking @ these dished pistons i can't see how you would achieve the ideal quench with the pistons zero decked with 40 thou head gasket , seems to be around 1/4" dish , or am i missing something?