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Best way to remove runs in fresh paint?

Started by Lord Warlock, November 01, 2007, 09:56:54 PM

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Lord Warlock

Hey leon or other painters, what is the best way to work out or remove runs in paint?  I have a nib file designed to shave them down (about 1 inch square), but was watching tv show where they were dragging a razor blade backwards over the run to work it down.  My 2nd topcoat has two minor runs, one on each rear quarter side panel and have to get it totally smooth without going thru the main paint layer, the runs aren't major (in comparison to others i've had) and could be sanded down, but i've found trying to sand them out without shaving them off first always leaves a visible trace afterwards.  Since i plan on at least one more coat on the car, even if i take too much off, it shouldn't make a difference overall, but i'd appreciate some ideas. 
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

bill440rt

You can use a razor blade as a start to remove the run. Holding the blade perpendicular (straight up & down) to the paint surface or even at a slight angle AWAY from the surface, drag the blade across the run as if you were lightly scraping the surface. Move the blade in the direction of the run, not against it. You'll see the blade "shave" the run high spots. Continue working slowly until it is all almost level, you don't want to go too far.
Then, take a small, HARD rubber squeegee with some 1000 grit wet, & then sand out the rest until it's smooth. Go slow, & check your work often as not to cut thru. It is very easy to cut thru as the surrounding paint area is much thinner than the thick run.
Once you think you have it smooth, give it a quick buff once over with compound just to see what it looks like. If you have to sand more, now is the time.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

hemi-hampton

I like to put some tape around the outer edges of the run & then wet sand with 600. The tape will concentrate your sanding on the run area & not the rest of the car, Pretty much protecting where you dont want to sand. Luckily you will be re clearing I think you said. I would put 2 more coats on & then with a heavy duty wet sand & rub should be gone. If you were not to re clear most likely in the right light & angle you would still slightly see it if you look hard enough. LEON.

Lord Warlock

Funny you mention taping it off, I already taped off the three areas on the right side that need the most attention, the door has a couple very small dings needing another layer of filler, and an old professionally done fender repair that shows light ripples when viewed down the side (as opposed to a 90 degree angle).  I'd decided i didn't want to cut through any more area than necessary so used the tape to define the work areas.  I'll be trying to shave the runs off tomorrow, so we'll see how it goes.  Have plenty of fresh sharp razor blades, hope i don't poke myself like i did last weekend, found out razor blades under the fingernails hurt, and bleed profusely. 

I'd planned to paint a total of 3 layers not counting the primer, but the first color layer ended up having quite a bit of additional filler work, the 2nd coat came out pretty good except the front fender and a spot behind the door that i had pulled a dent out and had to fill it smooth, looks fine from 8 feet but from 8 inches and looking down the side the reflections show that more work needs to be done to get it smooth.  The charger's large flat panels (slightly curved) make every flaw show up.  I thought creme was going to be a "forgiving" color...maybe not, either that or i'm getting overly critical after months of work.  I've still got one final coat to go after i work out the runs and tidy up the two areas of concern.  The drivers side came out very nice on both the first coats, one small run to deal with where the R/T stripe will go, but the passenger side had much more surface work to do. 

I'm using single stage 2k polyurethane enamel, not a base coat/clear coat finish.  I've had more luck with the single stage than the base/clears, bases always went on fine, but clears i've had issues with.  I managed a few good jobs with the 2 stage paints, but definitely were more work.   

Its still going to need color sanding and buffing when everything is done, too many dust particles (this is a garage job, not a booth) I'm not worried about that stage though, i've done it plenty of times already with the other projects. 

It helps to have someone to bounce questions off that knows what they are doing.  I'd prefer not to spend the next year and a half worrying through each small section.  At least the car is no longer sitting in faded and buffed thru paint, or in primer anymore.  After 29 years its finally showing a little progress. 
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

Lord Warlock

shaving the runs seemed to work out great, surprisingly i didn't cut thru anywhere.  I do have more work to focus on tomorrow, the ripple area up front had a high spot that had to go and cut thru there, the hood also seems to have several dinged areas to work flat again.  Once again, progress was made, and thats all i can expect. 
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.