Got the Aluminum DAYTONA WINGS

[Daytona Guy]

Got the Aluminum DAYTONA WINGS !

The sanding is where they grind off and sand the gates and risers. They look good. They should be packed and ready for shipping on Monday. There are some tools I would use that will make the job easier.

If you use a grinder make sure you keep it lubricated. The foundry uses WD40

There is another tool I use for the wing adjustment part. Buy a Rotary RASP set. You can get them for $5.00 @ Harbor Freight.
There will be more I can share with you all in your e-mails. Have fun.

[PocketThunder]

Bitchen!! send mine first!!     just kidding, no rush, i'm just happy to have one.

Thanks again

Paul
in St. Paul

[Khyron]

I should buy one and just slap it on my 69

that'll piss off the purists

[hotrod98]

What timing. The guys are getting their braces this week and their wings next week. Looks like we have our work cut out for us now.
For the guys that don't know the orientation of the brackets, I'm attaching a pic that I borrowed from a website. Hope they don't get upset with me for using their pic here. This is a superbird, but the braces mount the same. Notice that the small braces are broken at a less than 90 degree angle for a reason. The vertical brace is not 90 degrees to the floor. I had to have the fab shop remake them. For some reason they thought that the originals were wrong. They weren't.
I personally think that on the clones, the wing washers shouldn't be necessary. Anyone think otherwise? Let me know.

[bakerhillpins]

Forgive my ignorance (on a multitude of issues) with regard to these questions..  

The risers seem to be sandcast with the pitting and such. Is it then the responsibliity of the new owners to fill and sand the wings to get them smooth? I did some alum casting long time ago, high school metal shop to be truthful, and can't recall if the rough surface comes with the method of production?

Second - with regard to the braces.. what are the wing washers exactly?

[hotrod98]

To answer for Dane. Dane had these wings cast for us as a favor. He doesn't do this for profit and as such does not finish the wings out. We understood this as part of the deal and are very grateful to Dane for doing this for us. This is a normal process for as cast parts.
We prefer the aluminum wing over the fiberglass versions since they by nature will be more durable. They are slightly heavier than the fiberglass versions but not that much.
The wing washers as I understand it helped to prevent distortion to the quarter panel when bolting the wing down and also helped along with the braces to prevent the collapse of the quarter panel at high speeds (certainly much higher than 100 mph). I haven't determined yet if we need them on the clones. I will probably use them on mine just to be safe. I wonder if my car will do 100 mph?

[Old Moparz]

Hey Larry, (hotrod98) thanks for posting the photo, the ones I have may not be digital & I have to go hunting for them.

Bakerhillpins, the red arrow is pointing to the wing washer that hotrod98 described.

[bakerhillpins]

Guys.. Thanks for the responses.

I figured the casts needed more work and didn't mean to suggest that the parts were leaving something to be desired.   I realize the situation with low volume parts from other hobbies I have.

So would these be skimmed with body filler (correct term please) sanded and painted? (Ok Im getting off topic here - body/paint)

Are the original wings alum? Based upon my reading in this (and the-old) forum I believe they were. I would be worried that the fiberglass would stress and deflect as well.

As far as the washers go. I seems to me that it's a rather large gamble to not put them in. Even at speeds under 100mph think of simply encountering a gust of wind on the highway, the combination of which might result in a 100mph excess. Weigh the costs of the (possibly) unnecessary part to all the rear quarter damage that may result and how much time/effort there will be to fix. With fiberglass parts the chances are problay much greater for deflection and thus would result in transmitting large forces to the quarters.

The wind force might not be that high but consider that the riser is 2.5 foot? Torque = force x distance. Fibreglass or not.

Bryan

[Daytona Guy]

I happen to post the worst pitted one. I will keep that one for me. I think they could have done a little better job, but over all they look good. They said that happens in the cooling proses. Do a little grinding and filling and they are good to go.   I just hope they are not tired of me after having so many wings made. (hotrod98) Thanks for speaking for me, I could not have said it better.

What is so nice about these wings is that you have the right shape to start with. I had to face the fact that there is only one wing that is the best and that is the original. With these you have strength, the "Ting" factor, and you get to say it's aluminum. Original wings are 55 pounds and mine are - uprights 27lbs x2 horizontal 25lbs = 79lbs. So 25lbs different or the equivalent of 3 gallons of gas. It will be up to each person to make their wing what they want. You can even make the ridges in the horizontal wing to make it look like extruded aluminum.

[Charger_Fan]

Those sure are some sweet looking wings! Congrats to all you new wing recipients.

[cudaken]

 Pitting look's just like waht was on the OEM Daytona wing I did. Used Evercoat metal to metal to fill the pits. It is a power aluminum with a hardner. Wing is on Dr Bill Holden's Daytona as I miss spell, I did his wing and painted it.

On cleaning up the wing, I would not use a grinder or God for bid WD-40. Being a body man and painter by trade I will tell you WD-40 is evil.

With aluminum being soft I would use 80 to 120 grit on a DA, will cut a little slower than a grinder but marks will not be that deep.

Sorry to buttin again.

By the way, do the repo wings have the line's on top of the ceneter wing like a OEM wing. Can't see when blocked and painted but they where there. Boy I wish the old hard drive had not crashed, had some great PIC of a OEM wing.

Oh, local guy has a cream color Daytona with a white stripe here in IL. He left all the pitts in his wing. Look's like it was shot with a shoot gun. God F--king awful looking I wil add Told me they where all that way, told him I could fix it for him, gave him my number and walked off.



                Rather be winged than Blowen, Ken

[BigBlockSam]

hi Dane
  the wing looks great. i can't wait to get mine. that picture of the wing washer is a bird the daytona washer is differant. Rene

[xs29j8Bullitt]

Looks like I am late to another wing car reproduction party...  

What was the selling price for the wings? Were the wing uprights "hollow" inside?   I have a set cast by a friend that are SOLID, and darn heavy!!!  From the above post about the weight of the wing it sounds like these were cast solid as well...

Let me know if you decide to cast more, I might be interested in getting a set...

Allen

xs29j8@charter.net

[Roth68rt]

A Janek Wing just showed up on E-Bay, $750.00 buy it now.  Search 1969 Daytona (cause I don't know how to cut and paste). 

Steve

[BigBlockSam]

here's the link but looks kinda fishy to me. thats too cheap for that wing, theres no picture and the guy has a zero rating. those are three red flags. i wouldn't bid on that unless you can go pickup with money in hand . Rene

**Link Removed**

[hotrod98]

Rene,
When I posted the pic of the wing washers I mentioned that it was a superbird.
Do you happen to know why the sb wing washer is made the way that it is?

[BigBlockSam]

no i don't, it's kinda weird?

[hotrod98]

It almost looks like the trunk lid would hit it.

[Charger_Fan]

It almost looks like the trunk lid would hit it.

My only guess is that it uses that part of the trunk lip as an extra support for some reason.

[Daytona Guy]

Pitting looks just like what was on the OEM Daytona wing I did. Used Evercoat metal to metal to fill the pits. It is a power aluminum with a hardener. Wing is on Dr Bill Holden's Daytona as I miss spell, I did his wing and painted it.

On cleaning up the wing, I would not use a grinder or God for bid WD-40. Being a body man and painter by trade I will tell you WD-40 is evil.

Hey man good to hear from you cudaken but I respectfully disagree. As a body guy too, these will need some aggressive grinding at first. If you do not use a lubricant (WD40 is the foundrys lube of choice for best results), and having done these, aluminum is very difficult to grind and sand. Everything you use will clog up and you will be fighting it all the way. Use a grinder and 40 grit, then work your way up. When you are done with the grinding and sanding of the metal, you then clean it with lacquer thinner. BTW, (cudaken) great info on the evercoat metal to metal. One of the things about aluminum is that it hates anything that touches it  - just ask an aircraft painter. Believe it or not but one of the most tallerable applicators to aluminum is a plastic product (resin and plastic) the very ingredients in body filler. I have a wing that is 20 years old and the filler on it is still smooth and solid. If the metal to metal evercoat has any other metal in it other than aluminum (356) it will react over time. The foundry has been giving me my Q's on what works best. Bottom line is do whatever works for you. This is all a learning proses.

[cudaken]

 My self, I be worried the WD-40 would stick in the pours of the wing and not be able to wipe off. Daytona Guy, with the number of wings you have done who am I to say you are wrong. I never worked with a new casting, just a OEM wing. When I was stripping the wing with a DA never had the paper clog with the aluminum.

One of these day's will do one.

                               Cuda Ken

[daytonalo]

How much , and who do I contact

[BigBlockSam]

my neighbor left a message on my answering machine that he has some really friggen heavy packages that where delivered when i was out. Yes! my new wing is here. Rene

[Charger_Fan]

How much , and who do I contact

It was only a temporary thing he was doing, sorry.
Read this thread to see why; http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,877.0.html

[wingcars6970]

Hey they look real good as were on this daytona wing subject .I had found this a while back

[PocketThunder]

Hey they look real good as were on this daytona wing subject .I had found this a while back

Hey thats hard to read, would you have a larger version of it?

[Charger_Fan]

Hey they look real good as were on this daytona wing subject .I had found this a while back

Hey thats hard to read, would you have a larger version of it?

Here, try these bifocals.


http://wwnboa.org/motw.htm


Winged Warriors/National B-Body Owners Association
Maker of the Wings
By Sue George



Last fall, New Jersey member Dave Benasutti contacted me to say that he'd been surfing the Internet and found a web site that belonged to a company by the name of Hackett Brass in Detroit, MI. Dave gave me the URL and I looked it up. On that web site is a brief history of the company, a foundry which was established in 1917. In that history is the following paragraph: Hackett cast the spoiler stanchions for the first Daytona Charger. These were the tall stanchions that held the spoiler well above the roofline for stock car racing. Later we produced a shorter version for the street Charger".

I was intrigued and sent a letter to Hackett Brass asking if someone was still with the company who could elaborate on this particular job. I really didn't hold out much hope, considering the stanchion job would have taken place in late 1968 or early 1969, 30 some odd years ago. What are the chances the same employee, foreman or even manager that worked on this project may still be with the company now?

Much to my surprise, several weeks later I received a letter from Mr. Charles E. Fine, retired Vice President of Hackett Brass! Here is what Mr. Fine shared with me:

"I enjoyed your letter and have looked at many of the pictures on your web site. I'm afraid I can't provide any documentation detail about the Daytona Charger tail stanchions, but I do have a few memories of the project.

Hackett Brass is a small, family owned jobbing foundry that specializes in tooling castings, primarily copper for body line spot welding guns. In the '50s and '60s we were associated with Centr-O-Cast, a permanent mold foundry that produced much of the Chrysler trim before die casting took over, as well as trans-mission bell housings and transmission extensions for light truck and marine applications.

In '68 or '69 Centr-O-Cast approached us with a problem. Chrysler needed experimental spoiler stanchions for the Daytona Charger and, if successful, a production run to qualify the car for stock [car] racing. Permanent mold tools couldn't be built fast enough for their needs; could we build sand tooling and produce 50 pair in time for the upcoming stock car racing season. Fifty units was the minimum production for a stock car.

We managed to produce a few pair, which apparently were satisfactory, as we were given a rush order to qualify the car for that year's Daytona 500. Once we had finished, Centr-O-Cast built dies and went into production for the 'real' stock version-about 2,500 sets. My memory is that our sand cast stanchion placed the spoiler well above the roof line while the permanent mold version placed the spoiler only slightly above. I believe the difference was about 6 inches. I don't know if any of the original track version were sold to the public.

There is some difference of memory in the shop. My partner believes we made 500 pair. His job was to deliver castings to the polisher and then to Creative Industries for painting and installation. He made so many trips he knows there were more than 50 pair.

Our manufacture of the production run was amusing to watch. We usually did not produce quantities of any large castings, and we did not have much room in our 8,500 square foot building for anything more than rough trim. However our customer wanted finished parts, polished and ready for paint. So we set up repair welding and repair workstations on the sidewalk beside the foundry. As long as it didn't rain our crews were outside with long extension cords and air lines to power the hand tools used to produce our finished parts while the neighbors stood around to watch the excitement.

Since we were not responsible for the engineering, we do not have drawings of any of these parts, and the tooling disappeared long ago."

[Old Moparz]

Charger Fan to the rescue, get that man a beer! (Just one, it's early) 

[Charger_Fan]

Charger Fan to the rescue, get that man a beer! (Just one, it's early)  

Good idea, I still need to drive home.

[PocketThunder]

That was a cool read!  thanks bud

[BigBlockSam]

i enjoyed that

[Highbanked Hauler]

I should buy one and just slap it on my 69

that'll piss off the purists

That is why I go to Mopar shows.I get a few (how could you do that to that car)###K them.

[daytonalo]

Please call me @ 609-315-2230 I would like to buy a wing and also who sells trunk hinges?

[hotrod98]

Janek sells hinges  281 379-2828
Dayclona has them as well  508 977-0680

I have an extra set of unfinished aluminum wings that I bought from Dane that I may not use.

[BigBlockSam]

there's one on ebay, don't hit the buy it know price. they sell for about $650.thats the guy i bought my first wing from.  hope that helps, Rene

**Link Removed**

[mauve66]

i know this is an old thread but are the braces (from the trunk floor to the wing washer) the same from the tona to the bird??

[A383Wing]

i know this is an old thread but are the braces (from the trunk floor to the wing washer) the same from the tona to the bird??

I don't think so

[hotrod98]

Yes they are, other than the floor brackets and the bird style has a washer welded to the top of two of the braces. The  brackets that weld to the floor are different but the Daytona brackets can be altered to work. The Daytonas have an 85 degree bend and bolt to the floor and the bird brackets weld to the floor.
If anyone needs a set, I still have a few sets. I'll go $100 inc shipping in the 48 for a full set, unpainted. They are absolutely identical to the original Daytonas.
I used a set on my 69 Runner and they fit perfectly. I decided to just bolt them to the floor since I didn't want to weld anything in place. I simply bent the tab a little more to sit flat on the floor and bolted them in.
Here's a pic.

[mauve66]

reason i asked was i bought a set of braces on here (forgot from who) last year and didn't realize they might be different, i'm guessing the ones i bought are for a bird since they have no bend in them
i know i will have to modify them eventually anyway when i get to that point but i probably should of just got the Tona ones...............??

any ideas on which ones would be best (easiest) to modify for a 1st gen??

hotrod98, interested in swapping if you think your Tona ones would make more sense for my application??  i'll pay shipping both ways

[hotrod98]

We could probably do that. Send me a pic of yours and we'll see what you've got and whether you need to trade them or alter them.

[mauve66]

email sent