News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Help me choose an intake and carb!

Started by terrible one, October 27, 2007, 12:50:01 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

terrible one


Well, I just purchased a 383 long block, and was wondering if some of the pros out there could suggest an intake/carb combo for it. Also, it's got a Mopar Purple shaft .484/.484 cam, is that about the most agressive thing I want in the engine or could I bump it up a bit more?

The engine combo is as follows:

Head casting number 3462346 (71-73 model 79.5CC w/2.08/1.74 stainless valves).
Pistons .030 over forged flat tops, no valve relief (.006 below deck height).
Steel crank.
Balanced rolling assembly.
Stock rods.
.010/.010 crank (not welded).
New S.S valves.
New Comp Cam springs.
New keepers and retainers.
New valve guides .
ARP bolt kit (heads and rods).
Purple shaft cam (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=DCC%2D4120235&autoview=sku).
Mopar performance lifters.
New Mopar performance timing set.
High volume oil pump.

Ghoste

Performer RPM and a Holley 750 with vacuum secondaries.

Streetwize

rear gears? 4 speed or auto? if auto, what stall?
Wize

www.StreetwizePerformance.com

moparguy01

I'd say a performer RPM intake as well, but for a daily driver I'd recommend a edelbrock carb, again around a 700.

terrible one

Right now the rear end is a 2.76 but I plan on having a 3.55 or 3.91 in there pretty soon. Auto, havn't even thought about stall speed. Could someone PLEASE suggest one?

I guess it's the Eddy Performer for the intake, but what's the difference in streetability between the Eddy and Holley carbs?

Ghoste

The Holley allows for a great deal more tuning if you are looking to extract all the performance you can.  The Carter style carbs (Eddy Performer is an AFB and the Thunder is an AVS basically) are mainly just a bolt on and drive.  Fewer tuning options but nice and reliable for a daily driver type of carb.

mally69

I would guess a 2500-3000  stall  Performer RPM intake and a demon 750 :2thumbs:
edelbrock carbs are just plain junk , holley and demon are mich more tuneable and both use holley jets and other parts..

terrible one


Great info guys, keep it coming.

Does anyone know what the stock stall speed was?
Are you sure about the stall speed? Even 2500 seems a tad bit high. . . I don't want to be slipping most of the time. . .but then again with the 3.91's that would be about right, huh?

Truthfully I barely have any experience when it comes to carburetors and tuning them. I found the 750 Holley with vacuum secondaries shelf-used for $100 . . .

So it's between Edelbrock, Holley, and Demon for carburetion, huh?

Do I have to have a mini starter to run headers on this engine?

DukesofHoward

Are you looking for 1/4 mile performance or top end? I'd guess 1/4 from your rear gear selections.

For 1/4 I'd use the Performer manifold and the 750dp (I prefer the mech secondaries). Edelbrock carbs are easier to deal with (have one in my Duster) but don't seem to perform as well as the Holley's IMO.

I was looking for top end in my 69 Charger 383, and I used a Sig Erson cam grind very similar to the Purple and Sig high rev lifters.

Manifold/carb combo was Edelbrok Torker and Holley 750dp w/mech secondaries. Gears: 3:23 Sure Grip.

It worked pretty well. She'd run 130 with ease and a couple of times (driving across Kansas) I had the needle on 150 and it wasn't bouncing.

The nose gets really light at that speed!

The stock starter works with headers although it is a moderate pain to install. A mini would make things easier.

mally69

im not sure on stock stall speed i thought i read it was around 2300 rpm but like i said im not sure,, as for the slipping i have a 3000-3500 stall in my charger and to drive around the street you hardly know its there until you mash the throttle then it then it goes to the stall speed and starts pulling. The convertor might slip slightly more than stock( when putting around) but it will be minimal  not a whole lot of differnce. ;) Until you flash it then it goes to the stall speed. You want your stall speed set the same as the rpm your cam starts building power same goes for the intake. Performer RPM is a good intake. I would say with that cam a 2500 stall would be about right  :coolgleamA:

A mighty demon and holley use the same jets. Most people like holley becuase everyone has them and a demon is set up the same way, i prefer a demon :Twocents:  They are simple if you know them, basically there is four bolt's on the front and on the back take them out and inside sits your jets the back 2 jets are your secondary's and the front 2 are you primarys, very simple to change, if you get a holley or demon get one that has the little sight window on the side so you can see exactly where your float level is at. :2thumbs:

as for the starter No, you should not have to run a mini starter unless you want one.


terrible one


Great info guys, thanks.

I'm mostly wanting to build a street beater, so 1/4 performance is worth more to me than top end as of right now. And hell, I'll always have the 2.76's for highway cruising. I don't have a starter right now, and found a new MP mini starter for $75, so I was thinking about grabbing it instead of a stocker, but I guess the stock one would be cheaper, huh?

mally, thanks for the insight. I guess I'll try and get a 2500-2700 stall converter and go with that.

Also, I've heard that the Holleys are definitely the easiest to tune, but haven't ever really heard anything about performance, or the Edelbrock not being up to par, but then again I sure havn't heard much. The window thing on the Holleys/Demons sounds real handy

mally69

I see that your cam you picked starts building about 2200 rpm i would recomend a TCI breakaway its advertised stall is 2400 rpm  :2thumbs:  make sure you know the year and how many splines you have on your input shaft before you order one :icon_smile_big:

My grandpa runs a breakaway  in his 69 barracuda has a 440 with one size smaller cam than yours. We both like like it.


Hot_Rodder

Check these carb's out, maybe you'll see something you like:
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+4294925239+4294839063+400405+4294919007+115+4294902704
As for converter's, as a suggestion, try calling up PTC (Performance Torque Converters) @ 1-256-383-6868 and talk with them about what you got going on. My next converter I'm getting will be from them. There website is www.ptcrace.com, but don't owrry about e-mailing them, they stay pretty busy, and don't have a lot of time to get to e-mails, much less reply to them.

Intake, might as well get an Edelbrock Performer RPM, they are a little taller than factory, but if you don't run a carb spacer, and you run a drop base air filter, then everything should be quite fine with hood clearance. On my '69 Charger R/T with 440 that I had, I ended up using a Holley Street Dominator intake with a 1" 4 hole aluminum spacer (and new studs), a Barry Grant Speed Demon 750 cfm carb, and a 14"x3" drop base air filter, and had a good deal amount of room, so....

Also, about the converter selection, you will need to know what rear axle gear ratio you are going to be running, how the motor will be set up, or is setup, complete cam spec's, and tranny type..... All this you seem to already know, so.... Good luck. :cheers:

Nacho-RT74

Amazing!!! I wanted to build a similar combo as STREET BEATER, but mostly driver and got oposite opinions choosing a 280/.474 cam PURPLE SHAFT ( what is one step lower that the one you did choose ) and also wanted to feel the car engaged something similar to stock on torque converter and ppl keeped telling me about 3000 stall ( finally went with 2250-2350 )... I want to feel exactly like you: NON CONTINUOUS SLIPPING feel. I have 3:23 but will go with 3:55 on 27" wheels.

everybody except two or three members were saying I was making it wrong, but your combo what is pretty similar is now good LOL.

Yeah, 400 engine is low compression but I will change to KB240s what are higher compression. PROBABLY will get around 9.5:1 or even 10 depending of how much I mill down the heads.

will keep my TQ carb what is 850 cfms and stock manifold.

THIS IS FUNNY.

Anyway, probably opposite opinions will come anyway :P
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

chargerman68

have a 650cfm and intake both from edelbrock....runs fine.
1968 CHARGER R/T CLONELOOKING FOR ANOTHER PROJECT 69-70 CHARGER SHELL

firefighter3931

Quote from: terrible one on October 27, 2007, 12:50:01 PM

Also, it's got a Mopar Purple shaft .484/.484 cam, is that about the most agressive thing I want in the engine or could I bump it up a bit more?



That cam is a poor match for a street driven 383. The 240@.050 duration on a smallish 383ci displacement will push the powerband up pretty high. Ideally, you want a cam with ~220@.050 to help it make some descent bottom end torque.

As for the intake manifold ; the Performer RPM or a vintage edelbrock DP4B would be my choice.



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

terrible one


Ron, you have a PM.

Also, that's the first I've heard of the DP4B, but I've seen them on Ebay. Are they better in other areas than the Performer RPM?

firefighter3931

Quote from: terrible one on October 30, 2007, 12:06:17 AM

Ron, you have a PM.

Also, that's the first I've heard of the DP4B, but I've seen them on Ebay. Are they better in other areas than the Performer RPM?


The DP4B is an excellent manifold and doesn't give up much, if anything, to the performer RPM. The nice thing about the dp4b is that you can use all the stock throttle and kickdown linkages. The RPM manifold is much taller and you need to get a longer throttle cable and use a kickdown cable so that adds some headache to the installation. On a mild combo like yours there's no advantage to going with the RPM dual plane.  :Twocents:

Pm on the way.  ;)


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

terrible one


Ah, got it. Well I'm not completely sure but am 98% sure that I don't currently have any throttle linkage or kickdown linkage left. Would it be easier at this point to get the stock stuff or to buy universal stuff that I could also use with the performer? I'm totally down for the DP4B if I can find a nice one, but don't want to waste money on linkages, etc. revolving around an intake when it doesn't make a difference.

mally69

http://www.magnumhp.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=61_63 

This link has the throttle cable and kickdown cable set up for the  performer RPM intake i have it for the TM-7 intake  and i LOVE IT it works great  :2thumbs: 

firefighter3931

Quote from: terrible one on October 30, 2007, 10:12:33 AM

Ah, got it. Well I'm not completely sure but am 98% sure that I don't currently have any throttle linkage or kickdown linkage left. Would it be easier at this point to get the stock stuff or to buy universal stuff that I could also use with the performer? I'm totally down for the DP4B if I can find a nice one, but don't want to waste money on linkages, etc. revolving around an intake when it doesn't make a difference.


If you don't have any linkage/cables and are not concerned with a stock look then by all means go with the Magnum HP setup that Mally linked. Greg at Magnum HP is excellent to deal with and i've bought parts from him before.  :2thumbs:

The RPM will require a drop base air cleaner to clear the hood but it will fit fine.  :icon_smile_big:



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

terrible one

Quote from: firefighter3931 on October 30, 2007, 11:19:59 AM
Quote from: terrible one on October 30, 2007, 10:12:33 AM

Ah, got it. Well I'm not completely sure but am 98% sure that I don't currently have any throttle linkage or kickdown linkage left. Would it be easier at this point to get the stock stuff or to buy universal stuff that I could also use with the performer? I'm totally down for the DP4B if I can find a nice one, but don't want to waste money on linkages, etc. revolving around an intake when it doesn't make a difference.


If you don't have any linkage/cables and are not concerned with a stock look then by all means go with the Magnum HP setup that Mally linked. Greg at Magnum HP is excellent to deal with and i've bought parts from him before.  :2thumbs:

The RPM will require a drop base air cleaner to clear the hood but it will fit fine.  :icon_smile_big:



Ron

Alright, before I mess up, what all will I actually need if I'm starting from the gas pedal? Throttle cable, throttle bracket for the Performer RPM, and kickdown linkage for hte Performer RPM?

chargerman68

if u are going with an edelbrock u need to order a kickdown bracket....pn 1491 i think
1968 CHARGER R/T CLONELOOKING FOR ANOTHER PROJECT 69-70 CHARGER SHELL

firefighter3931

Quote from: terrible one on October 30, 2007, 10:16:59 PM

Alright, before I mess up, what all will I actually need if I'm starting from the gas pedal? Throttle cable, throttle bracket for the Performer RPM, and kickdown linkage for hte Performer RPM?


Yep, that covers it.  ;)



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

terrible one


Alright then, I'll hope for the best! Still not sure on the carb, but I've got a pretty good idea and I'll let my wallet do the talking.

I'm going to pick the engine up on Sunday. As of right now it's a complete long block. I've got a question that is a matter of opinion. Right now my engine stand is taken up by the mighty 8.3 liter. When I get this engine, should I get some motor mounts and go ahead and set it in the Charger, put it on a pallet, put it on a tire, what? Keep in mind that the pulleys still have to be installed as well as the starter, and the cam will be coming out and replaced as well. Thoughts?

chargerman68

i would leave it out and install everything it is a pain in the ass once its in... :Twocents:
1968 CHARGER R/T CLONELOOKING FOR ANOTHER PROJECT 69-70 CHARGER SHELL

terrible one


I agree, it will definitely be no fun to put everything on with the engine in the car. The only thing was that they bay was a good place for it to sit! What would you guys set the engine on if you were without another stand or cradle? It doesn't have any oil in it, so I suppose I could set it on end?

chargerman68

Quote from: terrible one on October 31, 2007, 10:13:24 AM

I agree, it will definitely be no fun to put everything on with the engine in the car. The only thing was that they bay was a good place for it to sit! What would you guys set the engine on if you were without another stand or cradle? It doesn't have any oil in it, so I suppose I could set it on end?

had one on a tire for awhile,but couldnt do much on the bottom end.you just have to find something that works for you and your shop area..
1968 CHARGER R/T CLONELOOKING FOR ANOTHER PROJECT 69-70 CHARGER SHELL

terrible one


Ah well, I bit the bullet and bought another 4-legged stand. This one's just a 1,000 lb. one though, so I hope it can hold the mighty 383!

terrible one


Well, I got the engine back and it's in the shop now. Too bad I have to pay $650 for f***ing barely hitting this girl's car in the parking lot. At least I convinced her to go to someplace other than the one that wanted $900! Keep in mind that $650 would have bought my intake, carb, headers, and starter.  :brickwall: Oh well, at least I've got the engine. It looks pretty good to me.