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The top 3 things you did for better handling?

Started by 2Gunz, October 24, 2007, 05:18:07 PM

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2Gunz


Basically the short list of your favorite handling upgrades.

Im looking to make my Charger handle better and want to start with the most effective stuff first.

Im sure allot of other people will also be interested in this as well.


1.

2.

3.


Thanks!!

mikepmcs

Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

69bronzeT5

Your gonna need to add more numbers if you want to know what Mikey's done to Mr.Angry. :icon_smile_big:

I doubt 3 is enough ;)
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

2Gunz

lol I'm sure.


Im just looking for a place to start.  Kinda the most bang for the buck thing.

Joshua


Troy

Hmmm, tough question because it depends on time and effort. I'd say the "most effective" modification is stiffening the body because every other upgrade will only make the body flex worse. Frame connectors are the first step but boxing the control arms, welding the k-frame, and strengthening the rad support area also help. This can be expensive, messy, labor intensive, and time consuming. Other than that...

Ok, I made a list but it had a lot more than three things. I'd say the best place to start is suspension/steering rebuild and new tires (in either order). Even stock rubber bushings are a huge improvement over 40 year old, rotted and crumbling stuff. Don't forget tie rods, the pitman arm, and the rear end. Substitute poly where you really want things tightened up but be prepared to deal with squeaks. Energy suspension has some good package deals and their bushings are black. Low(er) profile tires will have a stiffer sidewall and, usually, stickier rubber. So now that you've spent $2,000...

Torsion bars, rear springs, and sway bars are probably the next step I'd take - but only if the chassis has already been stiffened. The difference will probably be greater with a big block. I've been told to wait until the car is mostly dialed in before adding the rear bar or it will have a tendency to "step out". Good shocks (not KYB) will make these upgrades that much better.

There's a longer list for sure but this should get you started. A good place to look is the Firm Feel website. It's easy to spend $3,000-3,500 and then you'll find out your brakes are woefully inadequate. ;)

Troy
Sarcasm detector, that's a real good invention.

RD

bought her a smaller bra, installed hand grips on her thong, and taught her how to hold 4 steiner's in each hand  :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

okay okay,

polygraph bushings all around, wider tires...  still handles like a 35 year old musclecar...  still on jack stands hehe
67 Plymouth Barracuda, 69 Plymouth Barracuda, 73 Charger SE, 75 D100, 80 Sno-Commander

1BAD68

Here's what I did...

1. Leaf springs (made a huge difference)
2. Tires (noticeable difference)
3. Shocks (hardly noticeable)

69bronzeT5

 :hah: :hah: :hah:


Quote from: RD on October 24, 2007, 06:13:52 PM
bought her a smaller bra, installed hand grips on her thong, and taught her how to hold 4 steiner's in each hand  :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

moparguy01

polygraphite bushings, firm feel stage 3 steering box, and wider tires. it sure as hell made a difference.

Rolling_Thunder

subframe connectors, leaf springs/torsion bars, rebuild suspension with new bushings
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

Dans 68

1. Subframe connectors
2. See above
3. Did I mention subframe connectors?

As this is the only modification done to my stock '73SE, aside from BF Goodriches all around, I whole-heartedly endorse them. A must do.

Dan
1973 SE 400 727  1 of 19,645                                        1968 383 4bbl 4spds  2 of 259

dukeboy_318

Quote from: 73SEDan400 on October 24, 2007, 07:04:31 PM
1. Subframe connectors
2. See above
3. Did I mention subframe connectors?

As this is the only modification done to my stock '73SE, aside from BF Goodriches all around, I whole-heartedly endorse them. A must do.

Dan

where would you reccomend getting those from??
1978 Dodge Power Wagon W200 4x4- 408 stroker/4spd
1974 Dodge Dart Swinger. 440 project in the works.

Dans 68

Quote from: dukeboy_318 on October 24, 2007, 07:26:04 PM
Quote from: 73SEDan400 on October 24, 2007, 07:04:31 PM
1. Subframe connectors
2. See above
3. Did I mention subframe connectors?

As this is the only modification done to my stock '73SE, aside from BF Goodriches all around, I whole-heartedly endorse them. A must do.

Dan

where would you reccomend getting those from??

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,19941.msg217630.html#msg217630
1973 SE 400 727  1 of 19,645                                        1968 383 4bbl 4spds  2 of 259

Old Moparz

Since tires & springs were mentioned already, I'd add anti-sway bars to the short list of 3 if you don't have them already. I put one on the front of my Scamp & it felt like a different car.
               Bob               



              Going Nowhere In A Hurry

69bronzeT5

Just make sure your front end dosent look like this :icon_smile_big:
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

SeattleCharger



Why would you want anything else?  Just give me a Charger and I'll be happy.

Nacho-RT74

amazing, not to much ppl make sway bar mention :shruggy:
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

RTPTRON

1. Alloy Wheels
2. Edlebrock IAS Shocks
3. Front end rebuild

2Gunz



Looking good....

How about some links for good places to buy this stuff?

six-tee-nine

I'm intersted in more specific info on body stiffening. OK Hemi torque boxes are maybe a good start, but any other detailed things that improve body flexing?

Any links or pictures from who has done it?

It's nice to spin the tires once and a while but a 500 hp stroker is also meant to get somewhere fast without doing anything BUT roasting your tires...
Greetings from Belgium, the beer country

NOS is nice, turbo's are neat, but when it comes to Mopars, there's no need to cheat...


zerfetzen

:METAL:  In the future, I'm going to XV MotorSports (http://xvmotorsports.com/) and buying their:

Subframe Connectors: $180
Radiator Support: $90
Inner Fender Braces: $180

That engine brace is probably great, but probably too expensive for its own benefit, in my opinion, so I'll pass on that one.  Here are some other places I'll dump money, and why my project will take years to complete :pullinghair: :

Firm Feel (http://www.firmfeel.com/)
Reinforced K-Frame
Tubular Upper Control Arms
Reinforced Lower Control Arms
Sway Bar Kits
.96" Torsion Bars
Suspension Rebuild Kit
Heavy Duty Tie Rod Kit

Summit Racing (http://www.summitracing.com/)
Koni Shocks

ESPO (http://www.espo.com/)
Leaf Springs
Leaf Spring Shackles
Leaf Spring U-Bolts
Leaf Spring Bushings
Current Daily Driver: 2006 Dodge Charger RT
Current Project: 1969 Dodge Charger
Previous Cars I want back: 1974 Barracuda, 1973 Cuda

plum500

Shocks/springs
Sway bars
Wheels/tires (directional, 255/50s all around)
Bushings/suspension rebuild
Lower ride height where possible

NYCMille

Dude, this is a BIG list and it's not so much the parts but how you get all the parts to work in conjunction with eachother when they are installed. If you just want some imediate results (not BIG results) just results, I would do the following:

1. Good rubber - take off the Cooper Cobra's or Radial T/As and throw them in the trash - they're garbage.
2. Stiffen up the frame: Sub-frame connectors - welded, not bolted in, Inner fender well braces and beefed up radiator support.
3. Torsion bars/Sway bars - they work together which is why I am listing them together. Do not modify one without the other.

If you want a FULL list just let me know.

Mike

1st_charger


69bronzeT5

Quote from: NYCMille on October 25, 2007, 09:01:29 AM
1. Good rubber - take off the Cooper Cobra's or Radial T/As and throw them in the trash - they're garbage.



What kinda tires do you use?
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

Ghoste

I'm another one who found the biggest three were tires, shocks, and springs.  I'd have to say the front end rebuild is tied with springs for the number 3 spot though. 


69bronzeT5

Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

mikepmcs

Cody,
I think he likes dunlop sp series tires.

v/r
Mike
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

HITMAN 149

nitto's ?????  :shruggy: i think i remember him saying that?!?!?
68 Charger R/T, SOLD =/ sniffle sniffle
01 BMW 740i SPORT  
01 Hot Rod Harley Dresser, SOLD =/ =/

HITMAN 149

not that i would be able to compare before N after (as i've only driven the car about 15 miles in the year that i've had it) as it's been in the shop since last jan 21st!!!  :brickwall:.. but i've done (all  brand new..)
*poly/graph front & rear sway bars...(pst kit.. i
*KYB's all around (wish i had known about the eelbrock's before i did the kyb's) oh well... maybe later???
*ALL new poly/graph front suspension kit w/ heavy duty tie rods...(pst)
i'm going to do 18x10's out back & 17x8 or9's up front.... haven't decided on which wheels or rubber yet???
68 Charger R/T, SOLD =/ sniffle sniffle
01 BMW 740i SPORT  
01 Hot Rod Harley Dresser, SOLD =/ =/

RallyeMike

To best answer the question, how is Gunz car set up right now?

Assuming the suspension is in reasonable stock condition, if there are no sway bars, I'd add those as #1. If there are sway bars, I'd upgrade them as #1. Second would be bigger spring rates front and rear. Third would be subframe connectors. Subframe connectors don't do that much until the supsension is at the point where it flexes the body a lot.
1969 Charger 500 #232008
1972 Charger, Grand Sport #41
1973 Charger "T/A"

Drive as fast as you want to on a public road! Click here for info: http://www.sscc.us/

Ghoste

Don't they flex quite a bit even in a dead stock tame application?

autodynamics

well guys allot can be done with making this car handle. i would put edelbrock ias shocks in. Eaton springs out back. in the front tubular uppers, reinforced lowers new bushing kit throughout, a hotchkis front sway bar, firm feel stage 3 box, a 17" or 18" wheel combo. i would use .96 torsion bars as well. keep in mind all these mods have to compliment each other and dialing in your suspension takes time. as far as brakes are concerned i would use a willwood or bear set up. BUT u HAVE TO USE A HYDROBOOST system to make these brakes really shine. otherwise they will not perform like you think. me and mike (NYCMILLE) have been through allot of testing more so him than me but i can say with my combo i love my ride/ performance/ overall feel of the car. i would also sound deaden the entire car and make your car more enjoyable to drive especially if your going to be "driving" it. i would also use the xv rad support.i don't think i would use the inner fender braces if your not going to do a after market front end. i don't think there necessary. all the tension of the suspension is on the torsion bars on a after market front end all the stress is on the stock towers, that were all the load is going.keep in mind also which tire wheel combo your doing because you might have some tire fender brace issues to contend with.  i definitely with out a doubt put in sub frame connectors. also i would get a good driving seat the factory mopar seats are terrible for driving. they offer no support. i would do all this and take some time to use your car and get your package working together. then sit back and enjoy and let'r rip...... ohhhhhh AND DO NOT PUT KYB'S IN              THERE TERRIBLE

RallyeMike

... and which ones were the top three?   :lol:

QuoteDon't they flex quite a bit even in a dead stock tame application?

Sure. But If your car is rolling over on its door handles because of lack of sway bars or small bars, and/or mushy spring rates, subframe connectors are really not much of an improvement. Bang for the buck, start with sway bars, torsion bars, and springs.
1969 Charger 500 #232008
1972 Charger, Grand Sport #41
1973 Charger "T/A"

Drive as fast as you want to on a public road! Click here for info: http://www.sscc.us/

TK73

Funny how KYB's are getting absolutely slammed now, a few years ago the were the shee-it...
1973 Charger : 440cid - 727 - 8.75/3.55


Now watch what you say or they'll be calling you a radical,
      a liberal, oh fanatical, criminal.
Won't you sign up your name, we'd like to feel you're
      acceptable, respectable, oh presentable, a vegetable!

Ghoste

This is the first I've read of them not being the shee-it.  Have they lagged that far behind their competitiors or outsource the manufacture to the cheapest bidder or what?

autodynamics

the kyb's are equivalent to crap.... they are so bad when you put a real shock in your like what the hell was i thinking

Ghoste

So how did they get such a reputation for handling?