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The top 3 things you did for better handling?

Started by 2Gunz, October 24, 2007, 05:18:07 PM

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2Gunz


Basically the short list of your favorite handling upgrades.

Im looking to make my Charger handle better and want to start with the most effective stuff first.

Im sure allot of other people will also be interested in this as well.


1.

2.

3.


Thanks!!

mikepmcs

Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

69bronzeT5

Your gonna need to add more numbers if you want to know what Mikey's done to Mr.Angry. :icon_smile_big:

I doubt 3 is enough ;)
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

2Gunz

lol I'm sure.


Im just looking for a place to start.  Kinda the most bang for the buck thing.

Joshua


Troy

Hmmm, tough question because it depends on time and effort. I'd say the "most effective" modification is stiffening the body because every other upgrade will only make the body flex worse. Frame connectors are the first step but boxing the control arms, welding the k-frame, and strengthening the rad support area also help. This can be expensive, messy, labor intensive, and time consuming. Other than that...

Ok, I made a list but it had a lot more than three things. I'd say the best place to start is suspension/steering rebuild and new tires (in either order). Even stock rubber bushings are a huge improvement over 40 year old, rotted and crumbling stuff. Don't forget tie rods, the pitman arm, and the rear end. Substitute poly where you really want things tightened up but be prepared to deal with squeaks. Energy suspension has some good package deals and their bushings are black. Low(er) profile tires will have a stiffer sidewall and, usually, stickier rubber. So now that you've spent $2,000...

Torsion bars, rear springs, and sway bars are probably the next step I'd take - but only if the chassis has already been stiffened. The difference will probably be greater with a big block. I've been told to wait until the car is mostly dialed in before adding the rear bar or it will have a tendency to "step out". Good shocks (not KYB) will make these upgrades that much better.

There's a longer list for sure but this should get you started. A good place to look is the Firm Feel website. It's easy to spend $3,000-3,500 and then you'll find out your brakes are woefully inadequate. ;)

Troy
Sarcasm detector, that's a real good invention.

RD

bought her a smaller bra, installed hand grips on her thong, and taught her how to hold 4 steiner's in each hand  :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

okay okay,

polygraph bushings all around, wider tires...  still handles like a 35 year old musclecar...  still on jack stands hehe
67 Plymouth Barracuda, 69 Plymouth Barracuda, 73 Charger SE, 75 D100, 80 Sno-Commander

1BAD68

Here's what I did...

1. Leaf springs (made a huge difference)
2. Tires (noticeable difference)
3. Shocks (hardly noticeable)

69bronzeT5

 :hah: :hah: :hah:


Quote from: RD on October 24, 2007, 06:13:52 PM
bought her a smaller bra, installed hand grips on her thong, and taught her how to hold 4 steiner's in each hand  :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

moparguy01

polygraphite bushings, firm feel stage 3 steering box, and wider tires. it sure as hell made a difference.

Rolling_Thunder

subframe connectors, leaf springs/torsion bars, rebuild suspension with new bushings
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

Dans 68

1. Subframe connectors
2. See above
3. Did I mention subframe connectors?

As this is the only modification done to my stock '73SE, aside from BF Goodriches all around, I whole-heartedly endorse them. A must do.

Dan
1973 SE 400 727  1 of 19,645                                        1968 383 4bbl 4spds  2 of 259

dukeboy_318

Quote from: 73SEDan400 on October 24, 2007, 07:04:31 PM
1. Subframe connectors
2. See above
3. Did I mention subframe connectors?

As this is the only modification done to my stock '73SE, aside from BF Goodriches all around, I whole-heartedly endorse them. A must do.

Dan

where would you reccomend getting those from??
1978 Dodge Power Wagon W200 4x4- 408 stroker/4spd
1974 Dodge Dart Swinger. 440 project in the works.

Dans 68

Quote from: dukeboy_318 on October 24, 2007, 07:26:04 PM
Quote from: 73SEDan400 on October 24, 2007, 07:04:31 PM
1. Subframe connectors
2. See above
3. Did I mention subframe connectors?

As this is the only modification done to my stock '73SE, aside from BF Goodriches all around, I whole-heartedly endorse them. A must do.

Dan

where would you reccomend getting those from??

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,19941.msg217630.html#msg217630
1973 SE 400 727  1 of 19,645                                        1968 383 4bbl 4spds  2 of 259

Old Moparz

Since tires & springs were mentioned already, I'd add anti-sway bars to the short list of 3 if you don't have them already. I put one on the front of my Scamp & it felt like a different car.
               Bob               



              Going Nowhere In A Hurry

69bronzeT5

Just make sure your front end dosent look like this :icon_smile_big:
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

SeattleCharger



Why would you want anything else?  Just give me a Charger and I'll be happy.

Nacho-RT74

amazing, not to much ppl make sway bar mention :shruggy:
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

RTPTRON

1. Alloy Wheels
2. Edlebrock IAS Shocks
3. Front end rebuild

2Gunz



Looking good....

How about some links for good places to buy this stuff?

six-tee-nine

I'm intersted in more specific info on body stiffening. OK Hemi torque boxes are maybe a good start, but any other detailed things that improve body flexing?

Any links or pictures from who has done it?

It's nice to spin the tires once and a while but a 500 hp stroker is also meant to get somewhere fast without doing anything BUT roasting your tires...
Greetings from Belgium, the beer country

NOS is nice, turbo's are neat, but when it comes to Mopars, there's no need to cheat...


zerfetzen

:METAL:  In the future, I'm going to XV MotorSports (http://xvmotorsports.com/) and buying their:

Subframe Connectors: $180
Radiator Support: $90
Inner Fender Braces: $180

That engine brace is probably great, but probably too expensive for its own benefit, in my opinion, so I'll pass on that one.  Here are some other places I'll dump money, and why my project will take years to complete :pullinghair: :

Firm Feel (http://www.firmfeel.com/)
Reinforced K-Frame
Tubular Upper Control Arms
Reinforced Lower Control Arms
Sway Bar Kits
.96" Torsion Bars
Suspension Rebuild Kit
Heavy Duty Tie Rod Kit

Summit Racing (http://www.summitracing.com/)
Koni Shocks

ESPO (http://www.espo.com/)
Leaf Springs
Leaf Spring Shackles
Leaf Spring U-Bolts
Leaf Spring Bushings
Current Daily Driver: 2006 Dodge Charger RT
Current Project: 1969 Dodge Charger
Previous Cars I want back: 1974 Barracuda, 1973 Cuda

plum500

Shocks/springs
Sway bars
Wheels/tires (directional, 255/50s all around)
Bushings/suspension rebuild
Lower ride height where possible

NYCMille

Dude, this is a BIG list and it's not so much the parts but how you get all the parts to work in conjunction with eachother when they are installed. If you just want some imediate results (not BIG results) just results, I would do the following:

1. Good rubber - take off the Cooper Cobra's or Radial T/As and throw them in the trash - they're garbage.
2. Stiffen up the frame: Sub-frame connectors - welded, not bolted in, Inner fender well braces and beefed up radiator support.
3. Torsion bars/Sway bars - they work together which is why I am listing them together. Do not modify one without the other.

If you want a FULL list just let me know.

Mike

1st_charger