can I do it myself????

[Runner]

if you really want to know you can put a dial indicator on the balancer, push the crank all the way back, then zero the indiator and lighly pull the crank-balancer out and check the reading and see if its in spec.

   however i seriously doubt you hurt the thrust bearing.    plenty of people hammer banancers on everyday so i wouldnt sweat it.    the right tool makes the job so much easier and is also easier on all parts involved. 

[firefighter3931]

GEEEEZE, something else to worry about now.   How would I know if I damaged the thrust bearing?  Hell, even the instructions tell you to hit it with a rubber mallet or a hammer on wood.  I wasn't able to get a real strong swing due to lack of space, so maybe I don't need to worry?

Bob, don't worry....you didn't hurt the thrust bearing with a few short taps (engine in car) 

That comment was mainly directed at anyone else who might be reading this thread and was going to beat the balancer onto the crank with their engine on a stand. 

If you're nervous about it then just put a dial on it and check the endplay like Mike suggested but it will be fine....don't sweat it. 



Ron

[RECHRGD]

What! Me worry???   Where did you guys find the 3/4" fine thread rod and bolts.  All I could find in town yesterday was the course thread stuff.  I guess I'll get start calling around.  Thanks, Bob

[Goodz]

One day I am going to understand all this stuff and think it is brilliant.  Right now, I just feel retarded reading it.  Any of you guys know of some website with videos or pictures to learn about some of this stuff so I can learn a little bit more?

[RECHRGD]

One day I am going to understand all this stuff and think it is brilliant. Right now, I just feel retarded reading it. Any of you guys know of some website with videos or pictures to learn about some of this stuff so I can learn a little bit more?

Googz----Your already at a good website for learning about this stuff!   There are some good books out there too on building mopar engines.  Bob

[Runner]

What! Me worry???   Where did you guys find the 3/4" fine thread rod and bolts.  All I could find in town yesterday was the course thread stuff.  I guess I'll get start calling around.  Thanks, Bob

  we have a bolt  place here that caters to potlatch and they had it.    look for a bolt and chain sales place.

[RECHRGD]

Thanks Mike!  I found a place in town today that actually sold a universal tool for this.  So, it still went on pretty hard, but it's on.  It would not flush up to the snout of the crank.  There's still about a 1/8" before being flush, but after looking at the old damper and seeing a line at about the same location, I figured that that's where it is supposed to be.  So unless you guys tell me otherwise I will continue on this journey.  Thanks, Bob

[firefighter3931]

Thanks Mike!  I found a place in town today that actually sold a universal tool for this.  So, it still went on pretty hard, but it's on.  It would not flush up to the snout of the crank.  There's still about a 1/8" before being flush, but after looking at the old damper and seeing a line at about the same location, I figured that that's where it is supposed to be.  So unless you guys tell me otherwise I will continue on this journey.  Thanks, Bob

Bob, what dampner are you using ? What brand ?

One quick way to tell if it's in far enough is to bolt on the waterpump pully and crank pully and see if they grooves line up.


Ron

[RECHRGD]

Ron, it's the one from Summit that you linked me to a few pages back. 

[firefighter3931]

Ron, it's the one from Summit that you linked me to a few pages back. 

Bob, that is a direct replacement for the stock piece so with the pullies bolted on there are no shims required. Bolt on the pullies and see if the grooves are lined up. If not you might have to pull it back off and run a hone through the hub. The Balancer is slightly tapered inside the hub for a snug fit so it's normal for it to feel tighter the further in you push it. 


Ron

[RECHRGD]

Thanks Ron!    I'll check out the pulley alignment,  The old damper has a definite line at about the same spot where the new one comes to a halt, so I'm hoping all is good.

[Runner]

 you getting close bob?        the balancer needs to be on all the way sence it kinda pinches the oil slinger andlcrank timing gear into the crank to hold them tight

[RECHRGD]

you getting close bob? the balancer needs to be on all the way sence it kinda pinches the oil slinger andlcrank timing gear into the crank to hold them tight

I WISH!!!  We're now into the middle of an addition and remodel going on in the house.  So, I've been dealing with contractors and trying to keep our budget in line while dealing with my wife's wants and needs.  Oh!! You were asking about the car!  I did just spend some time up in the shop, only to get frustrated again.  I thought I had good news because the crank pulley and water pump pulley lined up perfectly.  Then, when I went to make sure all of the six bolts for the crank pulley were going to align, they didn't.   There is no position that all six bolts will line up.  I checked the pulley position on the old damper and where the keyway was when all holes were aligned and tried that and all other possible positions.  The best I can get is 5 bolt holes to line up with one being about 3/16" off.  The pulley is perfectly centered, so I was just going to open up the one hole a little and bolt it down.  Now I'm worried again that I CANNOT get that thing on there the last 1/8".  I think maybe I should just get a different damper or use the old one.  The new one was under a hundred dollars, so maybe not the best quality.  The saga continues!

[Runner]

  i had to elongate a bolt hole in thepulley on mallorys car.   im not sure what to say on the balancer, ive always ran stock ones.    how are you determining that its an 1/8" from being on all the way?

[RECHRGD]

i had to elongate a bolt hole in thepulley on mallorys car. im not sure what to say on the balancer, ive always ran stock ones. how are you determining that its an 1/8" from being on all the way?

Well, the snout of the crankshaft is not flush with the front surface of the damper.  It's back about 1/8".  The old damper has a definite line at about the same spot where the new damper comes to a halt.  As stated previously, the pulleys line up fine.  I just assumed that the front of the balancer and the crank snout should be flush.  Maybe not?

[firefighter3931]

i had to elongate a bolt hole in thepulley on mallorys car. im not sure what to say on the balancer, ive always ran stock ones. how are you determining that its an 1/8" from being on all the way?

Well, the snout of the crankshaft is not flush with the front surface of the damper.  It's back about 1/8".  The old damper has a definite line at about the same spot where the new damper comes to a halt.  As stated previously, the pulleys line up fine.  I just assumed that the front of the balancer and the crank snout should be flush.  Maybe not?

Bob, like Mike said....you will have to elongate one hole on the dampner pulley to get all 6 bolts in. That dampner is a universal fit for several different 440 combinations and there are some differences from year to year in the crank pullies. No big deal....i did it to mine.

The balancer is fine and it's fully seated, don't worry. That is a quality piece....much better than a 40 yr old stocker with a dried up elastomer ring. The Summit balancers are quality parts built by Romac in Australia. I have the SFI version on mine. Trust me, i wouldn't steer you wrong on parts Brother Bob 

Sorry, can't help ya with the remodeling and contractor headaches....you're on your own there 



Ron

[Runner]

sonds like its all the way on to me bob.         

[8WHEELER]

Boy Bob, I sure wish we were not 6hrs away     I just found this thread     and need to look
back a few pages to find out exactly what you are doing to your car. I would love to come over and give you a hand
thats for sure, and I am pretty sure I have every tool you would have needed, I have done many engines starting 28yrs
ago, with a lot less tools than I have now. On the pulley hole problem, as said no worries, and it will not through off the balance either.

I WISH!!!  We're now into the middle of an addition and remodel going on in the house.  So, I've been dealing with contractors and trying to keep our budget in line while dealing with my wife's wants and needs. 

Now on your house, I heard you fired three electrical contractors already   

Dan

[RECHRGD]

Boy Bob, I sure wish we were not 6hrs away     I just found this thread     and need to look
back a few pages to find out exactly what you are doing to your car. I would love to come over and give you a hand
thats for sure, and I am pretty sure I have every tool you would have needed, I have done many engines starting 28yrs
ago, with a lot less tools than I have now. On the pulley hole problem, as said no worries, and it will not through off the balance either.
Dan

Good to hear from you Dan!  Yea, I wish you were closer also.  There's no way I could have attemped doing this without these guys help.  Just wish I would have had a better energy level during the winter.  I would have been done by now, and without all of the construction distractions.  Bob

[RECHRGD]

OK--- I got the water pump housing and pump on today along with bolting down the headers.  I want to be 200% sure that the rocker arm adjustment is OK before putting on the covers and intake.  The instructions that came with the Crane roller rockers simply said to adjust the rockers one cylinder at at time.  "THE SIMPLEST WAY TO ADJUST VALVES AND KNOW THAT THEY ARE CORRECT IS TO REMEMBER THESE TWO STEPS.  SET INTAKE VALVE WHEN EXHAUST VALVE STARTS TO OPEN.  SET EXHAUST VALVE WHEN INTAKE IS ALMOST CLOSED."  I followed those instructions, but when double checking things and going with the valve lash adjustment sequence that has been posted here, I end up with valves that are partially or fully open when they are to be adjusted per the valve lash sequence.  That makes no sense to me.  Also, when the valves are fully closed I can easily turn (spin) the rods with my hand (no up and down slack).  Does that indicate that they're too loose?  Also,  can I do the pre-lube (run oil pump with drill) before I install the valley and valve covers?  One more  thing---- I have the Mopar Performance cast aluminum valve covers.  The knock out area for a PCV valve grommet is about 5/8" thick.  Where can I find a grommet that will work?  Thanks, Bob

[Finn]

damn man, good for you. I took my engine apart but I started reading and talking to people on how to put it back together and scared myself out of doing it because I didn't want to screw anything up and have it grenade on me down the road.

[RECHRGD]

damn man, good for you. I took my engine apart but I started reading and talking to people on how to put it back together and scared myself out of doing it because I didn't want to screw anything up and have it grenade on me down the road.

Thanks Finn----But the congratulations may be pre-mature.  I won't be breathing easy until this thing starts up, breaks-in with no problems and survives a thrashing on the dyno!

[Runner]

i use the method described by the crane instructions,  you should also have insctructions that say the same thing that came with your comp cam.  basically you want the lifter setting on the base circle of the cam when you adjust it.  also remember if you go by the chart posted you might be trying to do it 180 degrees out..  if you have a remote starter button it makes pretty fast work of it. you should be able to spin the pushtube when theres no load on them. 

   i like to pre lube a motor with the covers over and then turn the engine over until i get oil up to the rockers to make sure theres no issues with the cam bearing, or oil hole in the cam. then i turn it over slowly again until i get oil to the other side.   

  as far as the gromet goes.. shucks, autozone ect might have it.  did you knock extra holes in them?

[RECHRGD]

i use the method described by the crane instructions,  you should also have insctructions that say the same thing that came with your comp cam.  basically you want the lifter setting on the base circle of the cam when you adjust it.  also remember if you go by the chart posted you might be trying to do it 180 degrees out..  if you have a remote starter button it makes pretty fast work of it. you should be able to spin the pushtube when theres no load on them. 

   i like to pre lube a motor with the covers over and then turn the engine over until i get oil up to the rockers to make sure theres no issues with the cam bearing, or oil hole in the cam. then i turn it over slowly again until i get oil to the other side.   

  as far as the gromet goes.. shucks, autozone ect might have it.  did you knock extra holes in them?

Thanks Mike!  The chart starts with #1 cylinder at TDC and tells you which valves to adjust (as you well know) while at that point.  With #1 at TDC (both valves closed with no pressure on the rods and indicated on the balancer) the valves that are to be adjusted are in the process of opening.  That's got me concerned.  How can I have anything off that far after adjusting all the valves per the crane instructions, determine TDC at compression stroke (again) and having the cam degree in properly?

I've got the valve covers on temporarily so the oil doesn't fly all over during the oil priming.  How fast should I be running the drill motor?

Yes, I knocked out one extra hole per their instructions for a pcv valve grommet.  I talked to Mancini today and have the proper grommet coming from them.  They said I'll have to increase the K.O. size to 1 1/4" to make it work. 

Thanks,  Bob

[Runner]

i just dont know bob, ive always adjusted the valves like your crane instructions  say.    ive never done it off the mopar card.  i do see your concern about the cam timing not being correct, it sure sounded like you did it right to me though.  hopefully ron will chime in.   you might want to post the question over on moparts race section, theres alot of engine builders there that have seen about anything... and you could also send dwayne a pm.  i widh i was more help   sorry.