can I do it myself????

[firefighter3931]

Bob, can you post a link to the timing chain set ? I'd like to have a look at it and the instructions just to make sure things are right.


Ron

[firefighter3931]

Bob, are you using a Rollmaster timing set ?

If so, here are some cam timing adjustment pics from their website...assuming that this is the chain you used :

http://www.romac.com.au/pdf/Std%20&%20Offset%20Crank%20Info.pdf



Ron

[RECHRGD]

Ron, the timing set is a Comp Cams unit.  I'll study the attachment.  I'm sure the principal is the same.  One thought though----Even though the crank is in the same position for tdc as when I took thing apart, is there anyway that it could be 180 degrees off with the keyway in the same position?

[firefighter3931]

Ron, the timing set is a Comp Cams unit.  I'll study the attachment.  I'm sure the principal is the same.  One thought though----Even though the crank is in the same position for tdc as when I took thing apart, is there anyway that it could be 180 degrees off with the keyway in the same position?

The carank rotates twice for every single rotation of the cam. With the #1 piston at TDC and the lower gear mark pointing up at 12 0'clock it will be correct. The gear will again be pointed at 12 o'clock when the motor is at BDC. At this point the crank has moved 360* but the cam has only moved 180* 

Hope that makes sense 


Ron

[RECHRGD]

Thanks Ron!  Maybe we're zeroing in on the problem here.  I'll check it out later today or early tomorrow and get back to you.  Bob

[RECHRGD]

I was 180 degrees off.   I was sure that the piston was up when I installed the timing chain.  Must be the beginning of Alzheimer's.   Now the question----Is there a change that I've damaged a valve?  I only applied about 10 pounds more pressure than it took to turn the engine, so hopefully they are tougher than that.  Assuming I can go forward now, I guess the preload operation should happen before the degreeing, right?  Any suggestions on how much?  I've heard anywhere from 1/8 to one full turn after there is no play left on the rod.  Thanks again,  Bob

[Runner]

there is a chance that a valve got bent....  but if i was a betting man id bet you probably didnt, however if it were mine i would check just to make sure.   do you have an air compressor?      you could put air in all the cylenders and make sure theres no valves with exsessive leakage.     heres a cheap leakdown tester that they may have locally for you http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94190

    as far as the adjustment goes, i think you would be safe going with either recomendation, or just split it and go 1/2 turn.

   
   

[RECHRGD]

Thanks Mike,  I've got to go to town tomorrow anyway, so I'll try to pick one up locally.  Bob

[RECHRGD]

OK, I got the tester and checked all the cylinders.  They all came in between 4% to 11% leakage.  So it looks like I'm good to go.  That's a nice tool to have-----Only $29.00 plus $20.00 worth of diesel to go get it.   A big relief.   Thanks, Bob

[Runner]

good deal bob. now i need to get off my butt and buy one   lol.       hey  is there still 2 mopar clubs in spokane,  lilac city and mopars unlimited?    the mopar show up there used to be a really nice show and the one i went to a couple years ago in airway heights wasnt big enough or worth it for me to come up again with gas prices the way they are.   was wondering if i missed the big one?    i havent seen any news on srp latly either?   any idea when they are going to finalize the sale and open the gates? ive been thinking about going to yakima if it looks like spokane wont open until next year or the mid-end of summer.   

[firefighter3931]

OK, I got the tester and checked all the cylinders.  They all came in between 4% to 11% leakage.  So it looks like I'm good to go.  That's a nice tool to have-----Only $29.00 plus $20.00 worth of diesel to go get it.   A big relief.   Thanks, Bob

Well that's a relief....glad to hear no valves got hurt. 


Ron

[RECHRGD]

Thanks Ron!  Yes, I was very happy with the outcome.


Mike, Lilac City Mopars is still active and they are the ones that do the Airway Heights show.  I haven't heard much about the local Mopars Unlimited for a couple of years.  The County's purchase of the raceway appears to be going through and they say that as soon as they get final approval it will open.  They're talking about this year.  The purchase has stirred up a lot of political arguments.  People are up in arms that the County can find 4 million to buy a rundown racetrack but never have enough money to fix roads or anything else for that matter.   Can't say that I really disagree.  I don't think the government should use tax dollars to buy private businesses.  The Seattle Kingdome comes to mind.          Bob

[RECHRGD]

Another question:  I'm not real comfortable with the amount of the red cam lube that's on the cam after all the cranking over (by hand) of the engine I've been doing since the cam went in about a week ago.  Would there be any down side if I mixed up a 50/50 batch of the comp oil additive for cam break-in and some regular oil to squirt on each lobe before I install the intake?  Thanks, Bob

[Runner]

im a little gun shy on the cam break in as well,  but if you got it good and coated it should be ok.  you could always poor a bottle of gm eos over the cam right before you put the intake on. 

[RECHRGD]

Thanks Mike.  Isn't the GM stuff just about the same as the Comp Cam stuff?  I was hoping to get the degreeing done today and start buttoning up this thing, but no luck.  I knew that I would need a solid lifter or two for piston to valve clearance, but got blind sided in the degreeing instructions by the need for a solid lifter.  Is there any point trying to degree the cam without one for the #1 intake valve?  I did put the degree wheel on the crank and ended up with a 4 degree difference from tdc per the timing set marks and when finding tdc using the piston stop method.  If the cam is manufactured 4 degrees advanced,I would think that would be what I'd want to see.  Right?  I just want to get on with it.  Thanks, Bob

[Runner]

bob,  if you have enough of the comp lube left then id think just pooring it over the cam lobes right before the intake goes on would be fine.    you could always take a good hydrolic lifter apart and replace the spring with washers to make it a solid lifter just for checking the degree.

       you need to move the degree wheel around until you get it exactly at tdc using the piston stop.     

[RECHRGD]

Thanks Mike------Good idea about using washers.  Bob

[RECHRGD]

OK, the cam card said it should degree in at 108 and it came in at 108.5.  Close enough for me!   Things should go pretty quick from now on, if I'm able to lock myself in the shop.  Thank for all your help!!!!   Bob

[Runner]

good deal bob, im real anxious to here how it runs.

[firefighter3931]

OK, the cam card said it should degree in at 108 and it came in at 108.5. 

Excellent....great work Bob ! 


Ron

[RECHRGD]

Had some time this afternoon and thought I'd get the timing cover and damper on.  Had the gasket all gooped up and bolts in finger tight.  Oiled the seal, crank end and inside the new damper.  It went on a little ways an would not budge after that, even with some rubber mallet on wood persuasion.  Tried the boiling method suggested in the instructions with the same result, maybe a little better.  I pulled the damper off and went ahead and snugged up the timing cover bolts to try and keep a good seal.  I'll get some emery cloth tomorrow and try to clean up the inside bore on the damper, but I didn't think I'd need to do that on a new unit.  If you guys have any secrets on getting the damper on I would enjoy hearing them.  The new damper is from Summit. not very expensive, but it's bonded nodular iron and looks like a decent piece.  Weren't things supposed to get easier now??  Thanks Bob

[Runner]

i dont know if that aftermarket dampner has an issue with being a tight fit or not. i like to use a dampner installer rather than a hammer on the dampner because the hammer method beats the crank into the thrust bearing....ive done it but i dont like to.


   my home made tool consists of a 1 foot long piece of grade 8 all thread the same thread as the dampner bolt, the 2 nuts that go on the all thread.  i then threaded 1 nut to the very end of the all thread and welded the end on.   then thread the other nut up the all thread with the bolt washer behind it.   set the balancer inplace making sure the key way and groove are perfectly lined up ( also make sue the key is all the way down in the crank so the dampner will slide over it and not hit it) then i thread the tool into the crank as far as it will go. then hold the welded end with a wrench and tighten the nut up against the dapmner, keep tightening it up until it sucks the dampner all the way on.  some oil on the threads of the all thread is a good idea. then remove the tool, install the crank bolt and washer and torque to spec.      hers a pic of my tool.     i think i had about 5 bucks invested in the tool.

[RECHRGD]

Thanks Mike!!!!  Great idea!  I'll be in town today, so will pick that stuff up.   

[firefighter3931]

I use the same type of tool as Mike.....a large threaded rod with a nut and large washer.....to press the balancer on as opposed to beating it on and risk damaging the thrust bearing.


Ron

[RECHRGD]

GEEEEZE, something else to worry about now.   How would I know if I damaged the thrust bearing?  Hell, even the instructions tell you to hit it with a rubber mallet or a hammer on wood.  I wasn't able to get a real strong swing due to lack of space, so maybe I don't need to worry?