can I do it myself????

[Runner]

hey bob, its been 2 weeks  any updates?   

[RECHRGD]

hey bob, its been 2 weeks any updates?

Sorry Mike, I've been shoveling, plowing and blowing snow for the last few weeks.  We had 2 to 3 feet on the roofs and 3 to 4 on flat ground.  The driveway was getting so narrow that I had to quit plowing and use our little tractor with a snow blower on it to get the snow up and over the berms.  The freeze/thaw meltdown has now started, turning everything into a nice sheet of ice.  The driveway is now a 1/2 mile long luge run.  My game plan is to get the tranny into Bekkerings for a workover and have it reinstalled before I tear into the engine.  I'm also have my dash cluster refurbished and want to have that installed with working gauges before any start-up happens.  It will probably be early April or so before this thing is all said and done.  I see myself bugging you and Ron more in March/April.     Bob

[Runner]

funny thing about this weather....  it snowed 6 inches at my house in a few hours, but only about an inch down by the river.  this is the worst i can remember as far as road closures.  its a cloudy 53 degrees right now, all the snow around here is finally melted and i dont mind going out to the shop anymore

[RECHRGD]

OK, I finally have the tranny back and no longer need snow shoes to get to the shop.  As I said before, I'm going to get the tranny and new converter installed before I tear into the engine stuff.  I've got the new flex plate onto the crank.  When going over the paperwork for the new T/A converter there was a bag that has a new transmission front pump bushing in it.  There was a piece of paper with it that said "STOP".  It goes on to say "new babbit lined bushing if torquflite 727 - #17118."  It also says "this new transmission front pump bushing will prevent premature wear of chrome moly pump gear drive on your torque converter.  If your transmission pump bushing is bronze, then remove old bushing and install new front pump bushing into the front pump of transmission per Chrysler specifications".  I'm not sure if I have to deal with this or not.  All I can see going into the tranny is the seal that the pump gear goes into and it seems to fit just fine.  What is a #17118 727 anyway?  I'm tempted to just go ahead and install it as is, but I know from past experience that I'd probably regret it.  Help please!!  Thanks, Bob

[Runner]

hey bob, i replaced my front pump bushing with the supplied one just because it didnt take much time, but im willing to bet there are piles of t/a converters running around on brass bushings.    if i was to rebiuld the tranny in my roadrunner and the kit came with a brass bushing then thats what i will install.      the easiest way to do it is to pull the front pump to do this.    i would send john kunkel a pm and get his input.     he sure knows his trannys!!   he has even helped me with a couple gm trannys that i put together and had questions about.

[RECHRGD]

Hi Mike!  Thanks for the reply.  I called Tom at Bekkerings (he did the rebuild) and he said that he rebuilt the tranny with parts based upon diesel 4X4 requirements along with upgraded performance parts.  The brass bushing he used provides more lubrication than the stock unit.  He's been at it for 35 years and prefers this to the babbit type bushing.  Based upon that advice, I will forge ahead.  Thanks, Bob

[RECHRGD]

Quick question before I put the tranny back in.  I noticed that the new 10" T/A converter was the same physical size as the one I'm replacing.  It measures 11" on the outside of the casing, so I assume that the 10" reference is based upon the size of the impellers inside the unit, correct?  The part numbers stamped on the unit and the box are correct.  I don't know anything about the one I'm replacing other than it was supposed to be a "motorhome unit" that stalled a little higher than stock.  Sorry for my ignorance on this stuff.   Bob

[firefighter3931]

Quick question before I put the tranny back in.  I noticed that the new 10" T/A converter was the same physical size as the one I'm replacing.  It measures 11" on the outside of the casing, so I assume that the 10" reference is based upon the size of the impellers inside the unit, correct?  The part numbers stamped on the unit and the box are correct.  I don't know anything about the one I'm replacing other than it was supposed to be a "motorhome unit" that stalled a little higher than stock.  Sorry for my ignorance on this stuff.   Bob

Bob, the TA 10in converter might look like a stock unit but internally it has been modified for increased stall speed & efficiency. Don't be concerned with the physical appearance of the TA unit....they are an awesome piece. 



Ron

[RECHRGD]

Thanks Ron!!!!

[RECHRGD]

OK, the tranny and gearvendors unit are back in.  I'll install the refurbished dash cluster maybe tomorrow and test out the gauges.  After that, it's time to start on the engine.  When reading Comp Cam's instructions on the cam break-in they say to remove the inner springs of your valve springs (if they are the double spring type) for the initial break-in.  I have no information on the springs that came with the new heads (Mopar 452 alum / E-Brock).  They certainly appear to have an inner spring though.  Is this exercise needed for the springs that I have?  If so, I'll need to go get the proper tools.   Thanks, Bob

[Runner]

bob, did dwayne change springs on the heads?  the eheads come with a single spring and dampner. id contact dwayne and ask his advice sence he knows knows what you have.   the cool thing about dwayne is, he will remember your cam specs....forever.  the guy seems to have an amazing memory.

[RECHRGD]

Thanks Mike!  I know I didn't pay for any springs other than were included in the package price of the heads.  Good idea to check with Dwayne anyway.  I took another look at the heads and what appears to be inner springs may just be a guide or something.  They are flat as opposed to the outer springs round construction and only have three coils where the outer ones have four.  The installation manual is the same as the E-Brock on line manual and states that they comes with springs for up to 600 lift.  I also saw one the E-brock site that they were rated at 120lbs.  BTW, whats a "thrust button" and do I need one for the cam install.   Thanks, Bob

[Runner]

thrust button is for a roller cam, no need for one in your application.   the springs you have are single springs with a dampner.     some people say the eheads are just fine to brake a cam in with, im fairly gun shy though so i have my own opinion.    id do what ever dwayne sugests as far as that goes.

[RECHRGD]

thrust button is for a roller cam, no need for one in your application. the springs you have are single springs with a dampner. some people say the eheads are just fine to brake a cam in with, im fairly gun shy though so i have my own opinion. id do what ever dwayne sugests as far as that goes.

Thanks Mike.  Well if they're single spring units, what other option do I have other than just breaking in the cam with what I've got?  Also, my fuel pump push rod only has about 1500 miles on it.  Do you suggest that I change it anyway for the new cam?  What is your hourly consulting rate? 

[Runner]

id run the fuel pump push rod.  the only preasure that thing sees is from the fuel pump itself and that isnt much.    you could locate a set of light springs just for the break in, some people have used stock warn out valve springs for this,  but you would want to make sure they werent going to get into coil bind.  then swap the e head springs back on.  i hate to sound like a parot but what ever dwayne says is the route you should go sence he supplied you with everything and hes vastly more knowlegable in this area than i am.    yeck you wont have decent weather to drive that thing for another 4 monthes sence winter wont go away.  an im sick of being cold.  do you still have snow up there?   been snowing and hailing off and on all day here.

   

[RECHRGD]

Hi Mike.  I'll run it by Dwayne, thanks.  I didn't get anything done on the car today as it snowed all night and half of the day!!!!!!  So, we got about 18" that I had to deal with today.  I'm REALLY READY FOR SOME WARM WEATHER!  They're even talking about some more snow tomorrow!!!!! 

[RECHRGD]

Dwayne said "no problem breaking it in with the supplied springs".   Bob

[Runner]

 

[idahogrumpy]

We ran a Comp cam flat during break in with a used set (1 season) of Edlebrock springs. The cam was a solid lifter comp cam similar to yours. When I complained to Comp about it they said our springs pressure was too high. These were stock Edlebrock heads! It cost my friend over $500.00 to go back through the engine because of the damage caused. If it were me I would take the time and do the spring thing that Comp recommends.

Just my  . It was a lot of work, but the new cam broke in fine. (Comp cam, same grind)
After a nasty email that I sent to Comp regarding this matter they did send us another cam.
I have built several big block Mo pars with several different cams from several different companies and this was the first one that I have had one fail.
Good luck   Grumpy

[RECHRGD]

We ran a Comp cam flat during break in with a used set (1 season) of Edlebrock springs. The cam was a solid lifter comp cam similar to yours. When I complained to Comp about it they said our springs pressure was too high. These were stock Edlebrock heads! It cost my friend over $500.00 to go back through the engine because of the damage caused. If it were me I would take the time and do the spring thing that Comp recommends.

Just my . It was a lot of work, but the new cam broke in fine. (Comp cam, same grind)
After a nasty email that I sent to Comp regarding this matter they did send us another cam.
I have built several big block Mo pars with several different cams from several different companies and this was the first one that I have had one fail.
Good luck Grumpy

HMMMM, interesting Grumpy.  Comp recommends taking out the inner spring if you have a double spring set-up, which these are not.  They are rated at 120lbs..  What are stock springs rated at?  Would the solid lifters be more prone to wiping out the cam than the hydraulic?  This start-up thing is going to be kinda scary.  Maybe I should have gone the roller route.  Thanks, Bob

[idahogrumpy]

I would just follow Comp cams instructions very closely. If the instructions are of the generic type I would call comp and ask them specifically how to break in the cam in your application.  Use plenty of break in lube! Prelube engine before starting. As I said it was my 1st experience with a failure of this type. My failure might have been a fluke or we missed something during assembly, I don't know. I'm just telling you what Comp told me.   I have no experience with roller stuff.
     Again   good luck Grumpy. 

[Runner]

bob,  you should bring  the car to woodburn this year.   it would be great!  heck we could meet in the tricities and tow over together

[RECHRGD]

bob, you should bring the car to woodburn this year. it would be great! heck we could meet in the tricities and tow over together

That could be fun!  Do they have a test & tune on Saturday?  I don't think I could be very competitive (consistant) with street tires, but would like to get a few time slips and enter the show on Sunday.

[Runner]

saturday is a packed day of regular racing.  however from what i understand, friday night you can get a pile of passes in. ive never raced friday only saturday and sunday. i typically go out early saturday.   sometimes i get lucky and win a round.     sunday is really busy for me. i race plus try to catch the car show between rounds plus scavenge the swap meet.    Sue does a good job of checking out the swap meet when i cant.   i always really enjoy woodburn. i did ask my wife if we should skip it this year becasue of fuel costs and she said no, were not skipping it.

[RECHRGD]

On another thread someone said they used "copper coat" sealer on "all" head gaskets.  The packaging on the fel-pro gaskets I have says to "use no sealer" so I'm assuming I'll be fine without applying any sealer.  Right?  It is also stated that no retorque is required.  So I guess I'll just torque them down once and call it good?  Thanks, Bob