My ebay nightmare and the link, not planning on payment from seller

[70charger_boy]

Once again. It looks like the good ole rod through the block trick

[Charger-Bodie]

Once again. It looks like the good ole rod through the block trick

Maxwell Smart is one of the most inteligent people ever 

[Steve P.]

Hey, you got something WRONG going on there....   It's pretty much what I expected.   

[70charger_boy]

I have never seen that happen without making a knock first.  Was te car low on oil, or maybe straight 50 weight?

[dukeboy_318]

dang howd you manage that one, looks like that block is toast.

[Steve P.]

Hydro lock can do it and worse...

[68chrgrwife]

Hubby said you have a great souvenir for your work bench (the piston)....

[69CoronetRT]

  Did all blocks have HP on them?

No. Only the ones assembled to be HP 375 horsepower engines. There is no difference between an HP and non-HP block.

[1969chargerrtse]

I have never seen that happen without making a knock first.  Was te car low on oil, or maybe straight 50 weight?

Oil and pressure was good.

[1969chargerrtse]

Hubby said you have a great souvenir for your work bench (the piston)....

Thats funny because I just came home, walked over to the motor, popped out the piston and layed it on the bench.  He's right.
The rod head is frozen on the pin?  Could that be a clue?

[1969chargerrtse]

  Did all blocks have HP on them?

No. Only the ones assembled to be HP 375 horsepower engines. There is no difference between an HP and non-HP block.

awesome, thanks.  So this block (11/68) with the original 906 heads and a 375hp cam should be close enough?

[1969chargerrtse]

Hydro lock can do it and worse...

A, whats that?  B, how do I know?  I was just cruzing 30 mph maybe

[Charger-Bodie]

Hydro lock can do it and worse...

A, whats that?  B, how do I know?  I was just cruzing 30 mph maybe

hydro lock is when a cylinder fills with liquid (in this case water) and it wont compress so thing start to bend and break which is very possible with some of the clues youve had with that gine such as the spark plug hole letting out coolant , it had an over heating prob etc.

[Steve P.]

Yup, but the cylinder doesn't have to be FULL of water. Just enough to take your compression higher than the piston and rod can handle..  In other words, not much water would need to make it into the cylinder.

[Charger-Bodie]

Yup, but the cylinder doesn't have to be FULL of water. Just enough to take your compression higher than the piston and rod can handle..  In other words, not much water would need to make it into the cylinder.

....and with that said id make dang sure to have those heads magnafluxed (crack checked) if you plan to reuse them, you may have a cracked head or it could have been a head gasket.

[bull]

I wouldn't even worry about what happened, I mean there's a window in your block Pete's sake. There isn't much you can do about it. Remove all the bolt-on stuff, throw the block and the rotating assembly in the scrap pile (except the crank and have it checked) buy a good 440 block off craigslist somewhere, buy all the internals new and have a short block rebuilt. Sell your heads (let someone else check them out but be honest and tell them the engine blew) and buy a pair of Edelbrock heads from Summit Racing.

EDIT** I see you already got another block. That's cool. Call your machine shop and ask them how much it costs to have the stock heads rebuilt. If it's more than about $1,200 I'd go with Edelbrock.

[Charger_Fan]

Not to be morbid here, but blown up engine parts are cool! That's the first time I've seen a rod actually wrapped around another one.

[69CoronetRT]

  Did all blocks have HP on them?

No. Only the ones assembled to be HP 375 horsepower engines. There is no difference between an HP and non-HP block.

awesome, thanks.  So this block (11/68) with the original 906 heads and a 375hp cam should be close enough?

yep..pretty much the same as factory...

[1969chargerrtse]

Not to be morbid here, but blown up engine parts are cool! That's the first time I've seen a rod actually wrapped around another one.

I'm going to try to get it out, then it put a bend in the other rod.

[1969chargerrtse]

Yup, but the cylinder doesn't have to be FULL of water. Just enough to take your compression higher than the piston and rod can handle..  In other words, not much water would need to make it into the cylinder.

  ....and with that said id make dang sure to have those heads magnafluxed (crack checked) if you plan to reuse them, you may have a cracked head or it could have been a head gasket.

Thanks for that advise, I was going to throw the heads back on (trying to be as close to original as I can ) never thought it could be them, and it could, and I'm not ruining this Nov 68 block.  The car did boil over a few times until I got the new radiator, then just for spite, when it blew it took the radiator with it. (fan went into it).  Another ? for us to ponder.

[1969chargerrtse]

The rod snapped off right near the piston pin, the broken part is facing into the piston so I can't see it, odd thing is it won't swivel around?  It is weld-ed to that pin, no marks or damage except the snap, but it won't turn?  Stressed and clamped from the snap? Clue to snapping?

[1969chargerrtse]

What we have here is , left to right.  A good rod, a not as good rod, and a real bad rod.

[Steve P.]

This looks like a good beginning of a new    WALL OF SHAME .....   

[firefighter3931]

What we have here is , left to right.  A good rod, a not as good rod, and a real bad rod.

Looks like you had a few cylinders hydro-locking.

Were these all on the same bank ? 

The heads might be fine but you should have them magged for cracks. The later head castings are more desirable because of the induction hardened exhaust seats which are designed for unleaded fuel. The casting number will be next to the valves....it will probably be 346/902/452. I would use that head over a 906 head anyday. I would also upgrade the cam profile while you're rebuilding the engine.

Good luck....that is a fine looking car. 



Ron

[1969chargerrtse]

What we have here is , left to right.  A good rod, a not as good rod, and a real bad rod.

Looks like you had a few cylinders hydro-locking.

Were these all on the same bank ? 

The heads might be fine but you should have them magged for cracks. The later head castings are more desirable because of the induction hardened exhaust seats which are designed for unleaded fuel. The casting number will be next to the valves....it will probably be 346/902/452. I would use that head over a 906 head anyday. I would also upgrade the cam profile while you're rebuilding the engine.

Good luck....that is a fine looking car. 



Ron

Seems like you sure know your stuff   Problem is I am tapped out.  I have to go with the heads I have.  The curvy rod is that way because the bent rod wrapped around it.  The cam in it says Americam 131.  Any info on it?  And I want to go with the type of cam that should of come with the 375hp motor originally, a little rump rump would be sweet though.  Any exact cam in mind.  I'm simple with this, you would have to tell me exactly what and where to buy?  Any ideas   Thanks, Rob.  Oh, I was an engineer and truck driver for our town Fire dept.  Things got to crazy and I left.