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Rob's ongoing slow restoration process of his 69 charger R/T SE

Started by 1969chargerrtse, October 15, 2007, 05:57:33 PM

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Neal_J

Nice work, Rob.  Well-done!

Way to pee in the pool, Tufcat.   See other thread.

Neal

1969chargerrtse

Thanks guys.  :2thumbs:  I still can't believe I did it.  It looks so cool compared to the painted gloss straight emblem ed rear..  TUFCAT started the whole thing with PMing me over suggesting to redo the rear panel as I spent so much time doing the grille, and Chris always suggested " get those emblems off the car "  I really can't believe I pulled it off?   :cheers:
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

1969chargerrtse

I'm pulling the deck lid stripe off because as shown before ( #478 ) I need to touch up on the lower section of the old painted stripe.  I was off by only an 1/8th of an inch.  I have to reshoot that section with the base coat orange, then clear over that and sand down the seam line between old clear and new clear under the wide stripe.  Sure beats trying to sand down a paint seam under an 1/8th inch pin stripe.  Pictures when the whole thing is done.

On the pin stripe I just slowly peeled it off cold.  On the wide stripe you need to warm it up ( hair drier ) or that sucker ain't coming off.
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

1969chargerrtse

So tonight I sanded down the area needing to be covered with 600 grit and then the remaining area to be blended.  I then cleaned it with my prep-All and wiped that down.  I then sprayed my can primer on to make sure I had good cover over the black pin stripe that was showing.  I did about 5 coats, hit it with a hair drier, let it sit for about an 1/2 hour and then lightly sanded it wet with 1,000 grit paper.  It came out smooth as a babies butt.  I'll let that sit overnight and then tomorrow spray the Chevy ( Hugger ) orange or Pontiac ( Carousel Red ) base coat, and then the clear.  Let that sit a day or so, and sand that with 1,000 then 2,000 grit and then buff that out and lay down the V'd stripe.
Wish me well. :2thumbs:
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

tan top

 :2thumbs: sounds like a good plan  :yesnod:  looking forward to seeing it ..good luck for tomorrow  :2thumbs:
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

1969chargerrtse

Quote from: tan top on April 30, 2009, 05:58:52 PM
:2thumbs: sounds like a good plan  :yesnod:  looking forward to seeing it ..good luck for tomorrow  :2thumbs:
Thanks, I hope to get it done tomorrow but now the wifes car needs me to do brakes after work so we'll see.
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

0X01B8


1969chargerrtse

Quote from: 0X01B8 on April 30, 2009, 08:32:08 PM
been following your story from the beginning.   :2thumbs:
Thanks, yeah it's been a rocky road, a love hate relationship with what I see as the worlds most beautiful car.  I enjoy posting my step by step story, and there's much more ahead as I have the trunk, jack etc restoration to do later.
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

1969chargerrtse

So I run home after work to shoot the base coat clear coat, It had been raining on and off all day and it finally stopped.  Oh yea.  Smack in the middle of shooting the clear I get a down pour.  Ain't life silly?  I'll lightly sand and buff it over the weekend and then lay down that stripe.  It came out nice. 
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

1969chargerrtse

Well I'm done for now.  Good news is the painting came out good.  Bad news is I didn't sand down my seam line good enough and it shows through the stripe.  I'm really surprised at this, I thought I sanded it down fine.  Body work is for artist.  So It looks fantastic to what I had before but not 100% show quality perfect.  No regrets at all and when I have the patience, I'll redo the deck lid again.  No painting next time just sanding and then another stripe.  Still a huge bargain compared to having a body shop do it.
Can't be to bad as it doesn't show in the pictures, but I see it clearly.
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

ChargerSG

Looking for 383 Magnum #0B196875 and 0B115166

Charger-Bodie

Just strip the whole thing down and paint it Y2 ! That would be AWESOME.
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

69*F5*SE


tan top

Quote from: 1hot68 on May 02, 2009, 11:57:00 AM
Just strip the whole thing down and paint it Y2 ! That would be AWESOME.

:yesnod:  :iagree:  :drool5: ................ :icon_smile_wink:


looks real good Rob !  :2thumbs:
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

1969chargerrtse

I think we'll just leave it the orange for now.  I put my new gas tank in today.  Small note:  Make sure you tighten down the gas gauge sending unit fully, or when you pull in your garage you will still be leaking gas  ::).  Took me a while to get it clamped down while on my back with gas pouring on me, but I got it.  Me do stupid thing.
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

Green71R/T

Quote from: 1969chargerrtse on May 02, 2009, 08:10:45 PM
I think we'll just leave it the orange for now.  I put my new gas tank in today.  Small note:  Make sure you tighten down the gas gauge sending unit fully, or when you pull in your garage you will still be leaking gas  ::).  Took me a while to get it clamped down while on my back with gas pouring on me, but I got it.  Me do stupid thing.
But at least you did not pay good money for a shop to do a stupid thing!!!

69bronzeT5

Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

1969chargerrtse

Quote from: Green71R/T on May 02, 2009, 08:33:39 PM
Quote from: 1969chargerrtse on May 02, 2009, 08:10:45 PM
I think we'll just leave it the orange for now.  I put my new gas tank in today.  Small note:  Make sure you tighten down the gas gauge sending unit fully, or when you pull in your garage you will still be leaking gas  ::).  Took me a while to get it clamped down while on my back with gas pouring on me, but I got it.  Me do stupid thing.
But at least you did not pay good money for a shop to do a stupid thing!!!
Oh so true. 
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

1969chargerrtse

My newest issue is the gauges peg to the right everytime I take the car out ( on and off ).  The tach also is almost at  5,000 rpm while I'm going 40 mph.  I'm waiting for new parts.
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

Finn

1968 Dodge Charger 440, EFI, AirRide suspension
1970 Dodge Challenger RT/SE 383 magnum
1963 Plymouth Savoy 225 with a 3 on the tree.
2002 Dodge Ram 5.9L 360
2014 Dodge Dart 2.4L

1969chargerrtse

Quote from: Finn on May 04, 2009, 02:39:33 PM
That stripe looks amazing man. :2thumbs:
Thanks, I still can't believe the straight gloss stripe is gone.  I really lucked out with the base coat clear coat paint and the fact that the tape stripe was a hair wider.
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

lilwendal

Quote from: 1969chargerrtse on May 03, 2009, 10:24:48 AM
My newest issue is the gauges peg to the right everytime I take the car out, and if they are pegged, it stalls when I slow down to pull into a driveway.  The tach also is almost at  5,000 rpm while I'm going 40 mph.  I'm waiting for Mike ( lilwendal )to send me new parts and then I have to pull the dash again. That sucks.  :'(  Oh that's the same time as last month as the stupid clock doesn't work.

Alright...I'll try to be as diplomatic as possible with this.  Don't want to start an argument on the board and I've tried to stay away from directly responding in this thread but here it goes.
Rob I don't understand why you have  a problem with the Ebay seller msirepresenting the car, a loan company lossing your money, a shipper damaging your car, A second set of mismatched woodgrain you purchased, a damged bezel, a stripe that was delivered flawed, A rebuilt engine that leaks, and a malfunctioning cluster from Mike AKA Lilwendal.
So why did I get the notoriety of getting named when all those others you have issues with do not :shruggy:
Are not some of those unmentionables above also members here? Just bugs me I guess.  Maybe unwarranted.
And I'm the one when anyone has any kinda question or problem I jump through hoops to make things right.
On the technical/info side and so others know some additional details of your cluster.  I did not provide his bezels or woodgrain.  I only did the actaul cluster.
First. A new electronic voltage regulator from RTE was installed per coustomers request.  I don't make these. I buy them like the tach boards directly from RTE. The issue you are describing now with all the gauges going to full is supposed to be impossible with that new style regulator according to RTE. Or  all the gauges are getting full ground simutaniously. With you mentioning the car stalling as well when this is happening I suspect there is some bigger issue than the cluster's voltage regulator.
If the cluster VR has failed in a way that its supplying 12 volts to the gauges, impossible according to RTE, then the gauges would have burn't out in less than a minute.  Usually with notable smoke/smell.  Thats all if the cluster VE is sending 12 volts out instead of 5VDC.  If it is full ground the gauges are all reading then they will go to the max reading on all but will not harm the gauges.  Unless something conductive is physically resting across all the gauge studs out the back of the cluster, highly unprobable, I don't see how they are all getting full ground at the same time.
I've never heard of a cluster VR being able to influence how the engine runs and causing a stall.  Its such a low current circuit to cause a engine stall. No doubt there is some electrical issue going on. The RTE VR is warrantied.
On the tach...Did this start the same time as the gauge/stall issue??
On the clock. Again I don't make the movements. They are from IS. I have purchased over 100 of these movements in the last 2 years and have 3 that I'm aware have completely failed. 2 From your car.  I test those clocks at least 3 times before the cluster goes out. Once before assembled in the housing for a minute or two to verify its at least running before closing the case. Once the clock is assembled it gets hooked up again and will run for a mimimium of 48 hours. Finally when doing the last testing of the completed cluster it gets run again for 10 minutes or so. These are also warrantied by IS for a year.
I noticed in your earlier thread you also have/had issues with your charging system/voltage reg...Is there a possibitlity your alternator is randomly throwing out a different voltage or frequency that is causing issues/damage?
So I'm done venting and heres how we can proceed.
I do too many of these clusters and do not have issues like this so I really don't understand all the problems your having but am curious and willing to help.
Two Options...
A. I'll refund total cost of your cluster refurbishing.
Return the tach that I supplied and I will refund all costs you paid on that as well.  I will return your clock refurbished to put back in your cluster.
I would need the RTE VR to test/ return. I will return an original style.

B. I need the entire cluster again to go through everything to see whats going on.

You taking option A. has me out all the time/materials spent on your cluster including a fully refurbished clock.
Option B has me investing more time/money to investigate yours.
Either way I'm not walking away from your problem and will help all I can but when I test a cluster on the bench and eveything is working great then it shipped/goes into a car 1000 miles away, installed by someone else into a 40 year old electrical system.  There are other variables. :scratchchin:
Most know what I charge for these cluster refurbs. Its really not much considering how much time goes into them.  The materials alone come in at 150.00 for a cluster with no additional needs.  Not saying that you get what you pay for at all. I take alot of pride in my work.  What I'm saying is I really don't make that much on them and it takes a huge amount of time away from my cars. Huge. So I guess I'm like your engine builder and stating that I'm going to wrap up the couple I have here now and break off for a while and get back on the cars.
That 383 4 speed car keeps calling me. :icon_smile_big:

Neal_J

Unlike the Keelser/Layson's thread, this vendor's response indicates he wants to resolve the problem.  Way to go!


moparstuart

Quote from: lilwendal on May 06, 2009, 11:41:13 AM
Quote from: 1969chargerrtse on May 03, 2009, 10:24:48 AM
My newest issue is the gauges peg to the right everytime I take the car out, and if they are pegged, it stalls when I slow down to pull into a driveway.  The tach also is almost at  5,000 rpm while I'm going 40 mph.  I'm waiting for Mike ( lilwendal )to send me new parts and then I have to pull the dash again. That sucks.  :'(  Oh that's the same time as last month as the stupid clock doesn't work.

Alright...I'll try to be as diplomatic as possible with this.  Don't want to start an argument on the board and I've tried to stay away from directly responding in this thread but here it goes.
Rob I don't understand why you have  a problem with the Ebay seller msirepresenting the car, a loan company lossing your money, a shipper damaging your car, A second set of mismatched woodgrain you purchased, a damged bezel, a stripe that was delivered flawed, A rebuilt engine that leaks, and a malfunctioning cluster from Mike AKA Lilwendal.
So why did I get the notoriety of getting named when all those others you have issues with do not :shruggy:
Are not some of those unmentionables above also members here? Just bugs me I guess.  Maybe unwarranted.
And I'm the one when anyone has any kinda question or problem I jump through hoops to make things right.
On the technical/info side and so others know some additional details of your cluster.  I did not provide his bezels or woodgrain.  I only did the actaul cluster.
First. A new electronic voltage regulator from RTE was installed per coustomers request.  I don't make these. I buy them like the tach boards directly from RTE. The issue you are describing now with all the gauges going to full is supposed to be impossible with that new style regulator according to RTE. Or  all the gauges are getting full ground simutaniously. With you mentioning the car stalling as well when this is happening I suspect there is some bigger issue than the cluster's voltage regulator.
If the cluster VR has failed in a way that its supplying 12 volts to the gauges, impossible according to RTE, then the gauges would have burn't out in less than a minute.  Usually with notable smoke/smell.  Thats all if the cluster VE is sending 12 volts out instead of 5VDC.  If it is full ground the gauges are all reading then they will go to the max reading on all but will not harm the gauges.  Unless something conductive is physically resting across all the gauge studs out the back of the cluster, highly unprobable, I don't see how they are all getting full ground at the same time.
I've never heard of a cluster VR being able to influence how the engine runs and causing a stall.  Its such a low current circuit to cause a engine stall. No doubt there is some electrical issue going on. The RTE VR is warrantied.
On the tach...Did this start the same time as the gauge/stall issue??
On the clock. Again I don't make the movements. They are from IS. I have purchased over 100 of these movements in the last 2 years and have 3 that I'm aware have completely failed. 2 From your car.  I test those clocks at least 3 times before the cluster goes out. Once before assembled in the housing for a minute or two to verify its at least running before closing the case. Once the clock is assembled it gets hooked up again and will run for a mimimium of 48 hours. Finally when doing the last testing of the completed cluster it gets run again for 10 minutes or so. These are also warrantied by IS for a year.
I noticed in your earlier thread you also have/had issues with your charging system/voltage reg...Is there a possibitlity your alternator is randomly throwing out a different voltage or frequency that is causing issues/damage?
So I'm done venting and heres how we can proceed.
I do too many of these clusters and do not have issues like this so I really don't understand all the problems your having but am curious and willing to help.
Two Options...
A. I'll refund total cost of your cluster refurbishing.
Return the tach that I supplied and I will refund all costs you paid on that as well.  I will return your clock refurbished to put back in your cluster.
I would need the RTE VR to test/ return. I will return an original style.

B. I need the entire cluster again to go through everything to see whats going on.

You taking option A. has me out all the time/materials spent on your cluster including a fully refurbished clock.
Option B has me investing more time/money to investigate yours.
Either way I'm not walking away from your problem and will help all I can but when I test a cluster on the bench and eveything is working great then it shipped/goes into a car 1000 miles away, installed by someone else into a 40 year old electrical system.  There are other variables. :scratchchin:
Most know what I charge for these cluster refurbs. Its really not much considering how much time goes into them.  The materials alone come in at 150.00 for a cluster with no additional needs.  Not saying that you get what you pay for at all. I take alot of pride in my work.  What I'm saying is I really don't make that much on them and it takes a huge amount of time away from my cars. Huge. So I guess I'm like your engine builder and stating that I'm going to wrap up the couple I have here now and break off for a while and get back on the cars.
That 383 4 speed car keeps calling me. :icon_smile_big:

wow that is going above and beyond , kudo's to you for standing behind your name and your product  :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs:
GO SELL CRAZY SOMEWHERE ELSE WE ARE ALL STOCKED UP HERE

Just 6T9 CHGR

Chris' '69 Charger R/T