Pretty stupid question about rearends but I need to know

[69bronzeT5]

When you "change" your rearend...such as change it from a 8 1/4 to 8 3/4, do you actually change the WHOLE rear axle or something in the axle??

[tan top]

whole axle Cody

[69bronzeT5]

Do you think this would work on with my 69 or do I need to find a B-Body axle?

"1972-'74 E body 8 3/4 axle & housing $350"

[Nacho-RT74]

B body TO 2ND GENS too

[keepat]

I think the E body rears are over an 1" longer then the 2nd gen charger rears.

[Charger-Bodie]

first off bronzy there are no stupid questions only stupid answers.....you need an 8 3/4 rearend from ANY 68-70 b body all other will not work correctly without mods!!

[justin1987]

Do you think this would work on with my 69 or do I need to find a B-Body axle?

"1972-'74 E body 8 3/4 axle & housing $350"

I've got a 1970 Cuda 8 3/4 rearend on my 69 Charger. If memory serves right, I think it is almost 2 inches wider overall.

[Charger-Bodie]

Do you think this would work on with my 69 or do I need to find a B-Body axle?

"1972-'74 E body 8 3/4 axle & housing $350"

I've got a 1970 Cuda 8 3/4 rearend on my 69 Charger. If memory serves right, I think it is almost 2 inches wider overall.

that will work BUT the springs or the perches will need to be moved hense mods.

[justin1987]

that will work BUT the springs or the perches will need to be moved hense mods.

It was already installed on the car, so I have no idea how hard the conversion would be. The previous owner supposedly pulled it off either a wrecked Hemi or 440-six pack Cuda.

[Charger-Bodie]

that will work BUT the springs or the perches will need to be moved hense mods.

It was already installed on the car, so I have no idea how hard the conversion would be. The previous owner pulled it off either a wrecked Hemi or 440-six pack Cuda.

i see ... i used to have an 8 3/4 from a 70 chally and it was almost 2" wider and if i remember right the perch measurement was narrower on the e body piece.

[The70RT]

If you have a 383 automatic your rearend you have will be sufficient.

[bordin34]

He swapped the 383 in there I think it had a 318 originally.

[69bronzeT5]

If you have a 383 automatic your rearend you have will be sufficient.

Ok so screw the E-body rearend idea...so the 8 1/4 that is in my car right now WILL work with the 383 auto thats in my car?

[bordin34]

The 8 1/4 should last if you dont beat on it or use slicks. 8 1/4 rears were stock on the 400 2bbl's in 73 and 74

[69bronzeT5]

Well Im getting rid of the big slicks on the back of the car and putting nicer, small tires on...something around Keepats size...hopefully . And Im gonna floor it sometimes but Im not gonna go drag racing with it or anything

[Ghoste]

Keep plugging away at that bodywork right now and save your money for that.  If you want a correct sized 8.75, be patient and one will come along, they aren't that rare.  You will come across one eventually at a decent price that will bolt right into your car.

[70charger_boy]

If you have a 383 automatic your rearend you have will be sufficient.

Ok so screw the E-body rearend idea...so the 8 1/4 that is in my car right now WILL work with the 383 auto thats in my car?

I just found out that someone, somewhere down the road put a 383 in my car and kept the 8 1/4 rear.  They took out the 383 but left the 727

[andy74]

My car was an originally a 400 2 bbl,and it had an 8 1/4,which lived behind my 440 for almost 2 years-and i didnt really baby it! i actually could have left it alone,but when i got the 8 3/4 all finished up, i bolted her in!

[70charger_boy]

My car was an originally a 400 2 bbl,and it had an 8 1/4,which lived behind my 440 for almost 2 years-and i didnt really baby it! i actually could have left it alone,but when i got the 8 3/4 all finished up, i bolted her in!

Did the driveshaft fit, or did you have to get another one?

[69bronzeT5]

Thats one thing I need to find....because we have 2 driveshafts here and they dont fit.

[justin1987]

Thats one thing I need to find....because we have 2 driveshafts here and they dont fit.

You can get a driveshaft cut and balanced.

[supserdave]

To bad your not closer, we have one for a 68-70 that could be bought reasonable.

[Mean 318]

I also thought of using a cuda rear in my 70 but the a lot of work to relocate the mounts didn't justify it! You seem to see that, so good!  The driveshaft will need to be shortend a lot. My advice would be to do the 8 3/4 swap now instad of messing with a drive shaft twice! Right the first time! The swap is EZ!!!!! I did it in a few hours so I have faith that you wouldn't have any trouble! When you swap the rear you will also need U bolts, You can go to year one, Just suspension, or paddock and pay huge money for theirs or go to advanced and get a set of theirs for $30.00... thats what I did. You will also need the mounts for the U bolts and shocks, You should be able to get them off of the new rear. Have no fear bronzey... it isn't too xpensive, and its an ez one to do! Best of luck!

P.S. spent $50 on my rear, came with the mounts, $30 on u bolts... maybe less, and $90 on brakes. thats $170. Then I got a drive shaft that was the right size for another $50, Tookit to a shop and they balanced it and new U bolts for $100.

[The70RT]

I also thought of using a cuda rear in my 70 but the a lot of work to relocate the mounts didn't justify it! You seem to see that, so good!  The driveshaft will need to be shortend a lot. My advice would be to do the 8 3/4 swap now instad of messing with a drive shaft twice! Right the first time! The swap is EZ!!!!! I did it in a few hours so I have faith that you wouldn't have any trouble! When you swap the rear you will also need U bolts, You can go to year one, Just suspension, or paddock and pay huge money for theirs or go to advanced and get a set of theirs for $30.00... thats what I did. You will also need the mounts for the U bolts and shocks, You should be able to get them off of the new rear. Have no fear bronzey... it isn't too xpensive, and its an ez one to do! Best of luck!

P.S. spent $50 on my rear, came with the mounts, $30 on u bolts... maybe less, and $90 on brakes. thats $170. Then I got a drive shaft that was the right size for another $50, Tookit to a shop and they balanced it and new U bolts for $100.

Did you have to take your U bolts in to compare or did they actually have the ones for your application or were they universal type?

[Mean 318]

I took the old one in.. I will look to see if I have the box so I can post the part #... I want to say it cost $24.00 beas the hell out of the 65.00 + shipping JS wants!