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Pretty stupid question about rearends but I need to know

Started by 69bronzeT5, October 07, 2007, 06:41:35 PM

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69bronzeT5

When you "change" your rearend...such as change it from a 8 1/4 to 8 3/4, do you actually change the WHOLE rear axle or something in the axle?? :shruggy:
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

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69bronzeT5

Do you think this would work on with my 69 or do I need to find a B-Body axle?

"1972-'74 E body 8 3/4 axle & housing $350" :shruggy:
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

Nacho-RT74

Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

keepat

I think the E body rears are over an 1" longer then the 2nd gen charger rears. :scratchchin:

Charger-Bodie

first off bronzy there are no stupid questions only stupid answers.....you need an 8 3/4 rearend from ANY 68-70 b body all other will not work correctly without mods!!
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

justin1987

Quote from: 69bronzeT5 on October 07, 2007, 07:07:15 PM
Do you think this would work on with my 69 or do I need to find a B-Body axle?

"1972-'74 E body 8 3/4 axle & housing $350" :shruggy:

I've got a 1970 Cuda 8 3/4 rearend on my 69 Charger. If memory serves right, I think it is almost 2 inches wider overall.

Charger-Bodie

Quote from: justin1987 on October 07, 2007, 08:17:12 PM
Quote from: 69bronzeT5 on October 07, 2007, 07:07:15 PM
Do you think this would work on with my 69 or do I need to find a B-Body axle?

"1972-'74 E body 8 3/4 axle & housing $350" :shruggy:

I've got a 1970 Cuda 8 3/4 rearend on my 69 Charger. If memory serves right, I think it is almost 2 inches wider overall.
that will work BUT the springs or the perches will need to be moved hense mods.
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

justin1987

Quote from: 1hot68 on October 07, 2007, 08:20:05 PM
that will work BUT the springs or the perches will need to be moved hense mods.

It was already installed on the car, so I have no idea how hard the conversion would be. The previous owner supposedly pulled it off either a wrecked Hemi or 440-six pack Cuda.

Charger-Bodie

Quote from: justin1987 on October 07, 2007, 08:20:58 PM
Quote from: 1hot68 on October 07, 2007, 08:20:05 PM
that will work BUT the springs or the perches will need to be moved hense mods.

It was already installed on the car, so I have no idea how hard the conversion would be. The previous owner pulled it off either a wrecked Hemi or 440-six pack Cuda.
Quote

i see ... i used to have an 8 3/4 from a 70 chally and it was almost 2" wider and if i remember right the perch measurement was narrower on the e body piece. :shruggy:
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

The70RT

If you have a 383 automatic your rearend you have will be sufficient.
<br /><br />Uploaded with ImageShack.us

bordin34

He swapped the 383 in there I think it had a 318 originally.

1973 SE Brougham Black 4̶0̶0̶  440 Auto.
1967 Coronet Black 440 Auto
1974 SE Brougham Blue 318 Auto- Sold to a guy in Croatia
1974 Valiant Green 318 Auto - Sold to a guy in Louisiana
Mahwah,NJ

69bronzeT5

Quote from: The70RT on October 07, 2007, 08:30:19 PM
If you have a 383 automatic your rearend you have will be sufficient.

Ok so screw the E-body rearend idea...so the 8 1/4 that is in my car right now WILL work with the 383 auto thats in my car?
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

bordin34

The 8 1/4 should last if you dont beat on it or use slicks. 8 1/4 rears were stock on the 400 2bbl's in 73 and 74

1973 SE Brougham Black 4̶0̶0̶  440 Auto.
1967 Coronet Black 440 Auto
1974 SE Brougham Blue 318 Auto- Sold to a guy in Croatia
1974 Valiant Green 318 Auto - Sold to a guy in Louisiana
Mahwah,NJ

69bronzeT5

Well Im getting rid of the big slicks on the back of the car and putting nicer, small tires on...something around Keepats size...hopefully :icon_smile_big:. And Im gonna floor it sometimes but Im not gonna go drag racing with it or anything
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

Ghoste

Keep plugging away at that bodywork right now and save your money for that.  If you want a correct sized 8.75, be patient and one will come along, they aren't that rare.  You will come across one eventually at a decent price that will bolt right into your car.

70charger_boy

Quote from: 69bronzeT5 on October 07, 2007, 09:57:39 PM
Quote from: The70RT on October 07, 2007, 08:30:19 PM
If you have a 383 automatic your rearend you have will be sufficient.

Ok so screw the E-body rearend idea...so the 8 1/4 that is in my car right now WILL work with the 383 auto thats in my car?

I just found out that someone, somewhere down the road put a 383 in my car and kept the 8 1/4 rear.  They took out the 383 but left the 727

andy74

My car was an originally a 400 2 bbl,and it had an 8 1/4,which lived behind my 440 for almost 2 years-and i didnt really baby it! i actually could have left it alone,but when i got the 8 3/4 all finished up, i bolted her in!

70charger_boy

Quote from: andy74 on October 08, 2007, 03:35:25 PM
My car was an originally a 400 2 bbl,and it had an 8 1/4,which lived behind my 440 for almost 2 years-and i didnt really baby it! i actually could have left it alone,but when i got the 8 3/4 all finished up, i bolted her in!

Did the driveshaft fit, or did you have to get another one?

69bronzeT5

Thats one thing I need to find....because we have 2 driveshafts here and they dont fit.
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

justin1987

Quote from: 69bronzeT5 on October 08, 2007, 06:49:15 PM
Thats one thing I need to find....because we have 2 driveshafts here and they dont fit.

You can get a driveshaft cut and balanced.

supserdave

To bad your not closer, we have one for a 68-70 that could be bought reasonable.

Mean 318

I also thought of using a cuda rear in my 70 but the a lot of work to relocate the mounts didn't justify it! You seem to see that, so good!  The driveshaft will need to be shortend a lot. My advice would be to do the 8 3/4 swap now instad of messing with a drive shaft twice! Right the first time! The swap is EZ!!!!! I did it in a few hours so I have faith that you wouldn't have any trouble! When you swap the rear you will also need U bolts, You can go to year one, Just suspension, or paddock and pay huge money for theirs or go to advanced and get a set of theirs for $30.00... thats what I did. You will also need the mounts for the U bolts and shocks, You should be able to get them off of the new rear. Have no fear bronzey... it isn't too xpensive, and its an ez one to do! Best of luck!

P.S. spent $50 on my rear, came with the mounts, $30 on u bolts... maybe less, and $90 on brakes. thats $170. Then I got a drive shaft that was the right size for another $50, Tookit to a shop and they balanced it and new U bolts for $100.

The70RT

Quote from: Mean 318 on October 08, 2007, 09:27:10 PM
I also thought of using a cuda rear in my 70 but the a lot of work to relocate the mounts didn't justify it! You seem to see that, so good!  The driveshaft will need to be shortend a lot. My advice would be to do the 8 3/4 swap now instad of messing with a drive shaft twice! Right the first time! The swap is EZ!!!!! I did it in a few hours so I have faith that you wouldn't have any trouble! When you swap the rear you will also need U bolts, You can go to year one, Just suspension, or paddock and pay huge money for theirs or go to advanced and get a set of theirs for $30.00... thats what I did. You will also need the mounts for the U bolts and shocks, You should be able to get them off of the new rear. Have no fear bronzey... it isn't too xpensive, and its an ez one to do! Best of luck!

P.S. spent $50 on my rear, came with the mounts, $30 on u bolts... maybe less, and $90 on brakes. thats $170. Then I got a drive shaft that was the right size for another $50, Tookit to a shop and they balanced it and new U bolts for $100.


Did you have to take your U bolts in to compare or did they actually have the ones for your application or were they universal type?
<br /><br />Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Mean 318

I took the old one in.. I will look to see if I have the box so I can post the part #... I want to say it cost $24.00 beas the hell out of the 65.00 + shipping JS wants!

Nacho-RT74

Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

keepat


andy74

Quote from: 70charger_boy on October 08, 2007, 03:53:36 PM
Quote from: andy74 on October 08, 2007, 03:35:25 PM
My car was an originally a 400 2 bbl,and it had an 8 1/4,which lived behind my 440 for almost 2 years-and i didnt really baby it! i actually could have left it alone,but when i got the 8 3/4 all finished up, i bolted her in!

Did the driveshaft fit, or did you have to get another one?
my drive shaft swapped right over,put i new u joints while i was there,and that was it,even swapped my brakes and everything,was by far the easiest project i ever did on the charger,seems like everything is always a giant ass ache,but this was easy!

70charger_boy

Quote from: andy74 on October 09, 2007, 03:04:16 PM
Quote from: 70charger_boy on October 08, 2007, 03:53:36 PM
Quote from: andy74 on October 08, 2007, 03:35:25 PM
My car was an originally a 400 2 bbl,and it had an 8 1/4,which lived behind my 440 for almost 2 years-and i didnt really baby it! i actually could have left it alone,but when i got the 8 3/4 all finished up, i bolted her in!

Did the driveshaft fit, or did you have to get another one?
my drive shaft swapped right over,put i new u joints while i was there,and that was it,even swapped my brakes and everything,was by far the easiest project i ever did on the charger,seems like everything is always a giant ass ache,but this was easy!

Thanks and yes everything is a giant assache!!!

69bronzeT5

So do you guys think it would be ok to drive the car with the 383/auto and 8 1/4?
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

70charger_boy


69bronzeT5

Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

TUFCAT

Cody, lots and lots of B-bodies from 66-69 had the 8-3/4" rear ends - - - don't sweat it.  Actually, if you search, you'll find most of the 66-67 cars (even the 318 powered B-bodies) had the 8-3/4. The housings and pigs are not rare, but a good sure grip unit will certainly set you back some extra dough.