Help! Any Brake Experts on this board? Proportioning Valve Question!

[71 RT]

I hope someone on this site can provide me with a couple answers.  After replacing EVRY piece in the brake system of my 71 R/T (except the proportioning vlave), I went to bleed my brkaes.  I have drums on the back, disc on the front.  No fluid was moving anywhere.  I was sure to bench bleed the master cyl., and I took the entire thing out. I tried to buy a new one, but could not find anyone who sells them, new or rebuilt.  I opened up the "plug" end of the proportioning valve, cleaned it out, thought everything was working fine.  I put the master cyl. and the valve together on the bench, fluid was moving through it.  I put it back together, and nothing!  No fluid moving.  Here are my questions.  I have new everything, new lines, brake booster, everything.  Anyone know where I can buy a new proportioningvalve, or a kit to rebuilt mine?  DO they even make a kit to rebuild proportioning valves.  Any help with where to go, or what I am doing wrong is greatly appreciated.  Before anyone asks, I have taken the brake lines off of the master cyl. and stepped on the brake to see if I could move fluid, and yes, the master cyl. is working, so I am assuming the problem is in the valve.  Thanks, and HELP!

[Ghoste]

Are you sure it's the prop valve and not the distribution block?

[71 RT]

To be honest, I am not SURE of anything any more.  I would gladly buy a new one of each IF I know where to buy one.  How would you test a distribution block?  Should I be able to blow air through it?  I am cluless on this stuff.

[Ghoste]

The distribution block is the next thing your lines go to after coming out of the master cylinder.  All it does is what the name implies, distributes fluid to each corner.  Are you getting fluid out of the lines at either of the front brakes?  I mean at the line before it goes into the actual brake assembly.  The proportioning valve is plumbed in line with the rear brakes so if it were plugged, it would only be the rears that didn't operate.

[71 RT]

Ghote,
First of all thanks for your help! Second of all, I must have some terminology wrong, or I have a different set up thn ou are describing.  I am going to psot a picture of another car with the smae set-up as mine.  The lines come out of the master cyl. and go into a large hunk of brass that has lines comming in and out, as well as some kind of a switch.  It has a "Plug" in one end, and has some spring loaded cyl. inside.  One of lines leads from this "hunk of Brass" to a smaller "hunk of brass" that the front lines connect to.  The first"hunk of Brass' is where the rear brake line attaches.  I have been calling the first hunk (the larger one with the switch) the proportioning valve.  The smaller one, I have been calling the distribution blaock.  I might have my terms backwards.  Please look at the pics and tell me if I am crazy.  The larger valve on the right wi where both lines from the master cyl. connect to.  Thanks again for any help!

[71 RT]

Another pic of the set-up, sorry it is so back, before I re-did the car. 

[Telvis]

I will be doing the same thing to my car when it gets back from paint. I'm not an expert and could quite possibly be wrong. I would attach a hand held vaccuum pump to one of the bleeder valves at the wheel and try to bleed the system that way.  Do one wheel at a time. I would think that might do it. I know if I'm wrong it wont be long before someone corrects me. 

[XXSpiralXX]

   Believe it or not Auto zone has had most of the " hard to find " parts for my 72. They had the master in stock, they have the power booster, they hade  the oil pump and pickup in stock ( for some reason nobody else had them, dont ask me why.... ) they had the balljoints etc etc.........    They might have the other stuff like the proportioning valve and related junk.  ( they even had 340's in stock! cool huh!!   )

[KMPX2]

OK here is what is going on your   proportioning valve has closed it's self. When you put all new parts on the car with no fluid in them there was no pressure in the system and that baby snaped close. You now have to manual hold it open.

[bull]

It might be a good time to replace that prop valve unless you're attached to the old one. The new ones (by Wilwood and such) are adjustable. Don't recall if the old ones are adjustable or not but the new after market ones are pretty user-friendly.

[Ghoste]

The proportioning valve is actually the smaller one of the two there but that is splitting hairs.  In your setup, the distribution block is also a metering valve and it'd appear that KMPX2 may have solved your problem.
Does that seem like it's gonna help?

[G Force]

Does anyone have a source for new distribution blocks?

[Ghoste]

You could try Fine Lines but I don't think any of that stuff has been available for a while.  Did you try your Dodge dealer?

[KMPX2]

I wish Mother Mopar would take a lesson from GM. They have a parts house just for old parts. Dealers can send old out dated parts there. Then guys can call them looking for stuff. Very hard to get dealers around here to do a general dealer inventory check. One parts guy told me is boss told him if they don't have or can't get it . It is a waste of there time to look for it (seeing that they won't make any money on it)

[71 RT]

Hey KMPX2 and everyone else,
Thanks for the input, it will be Sunday at the earliest before I can try the theory out, but it sounds real logical.  I will post my results ASAP.  Still wish I could buy a new set-up, but I will try and make this work!  You guys are the BEST!  Thanks a ton for your help, got to rig up one of those funny looking tools/clamps!!  I will be in touch!!! Thanks again for your help!!
71 RT 

[Ghoste]

A trim removal tool of some kind might work.

[71 RT]

Some Succes! Thanks to Everone for the suggestions.  Here is the update.  I now have rear brakes working perfectly, still no fronts, but I am sure I will continue to fight it and get fluid moving soon to the fronts.  I appreciate everyones help.  After holding open that switch, the fluid started moving to the rears, and I am very happy.  This site is the best, I appreciate everyones suggestions.   

[Ghoste]

Yup, we're just a buncha regalar jeeny-usses!

[purple70rt]

I know this thread is kind of old, but I am having the same problem.  Where is the switch I need to hold open on valve, I think there was a pic posted, but it's not there anymore.

Thanks
Dale

[Ghoste]

On a 70, it is likely on the driver's side down as far as the frame rail.  It'll be a brass block with one line coming in the back and two out the front going to another brass block.  The switch we were talking about should be on the bottom.

[John_Kunkel]

The plunger that needs to be held out when bleeding the front brakes is located in the metering valve.

[bull]

I wish Mother Mopar would take a lesson from GM. They have a parts house just for old parts. Dealers can send old out dated parts there. Then guys can call them looking for stuff. Very hard to get dealers around here to do a general dealer inventory check. One parts guy told me is boss told him if they don't have or can't get it . It is a waste of there time to look for it (seeing that they won't make any money on it)

Dave Smith Motors in Kellogg, Idaho has sort of been doing that on its own. They have a guy in the parts dept. there (sorry, don't recall his name) who either knows where all the old parts are located in his inventory or has actually set them aside into their own area. Call them at 1-800-635-8000 and when you get the parts dept. ask for the guy who knows about all the old classic parts and chances are they will know what you're talking about. I talked to him once about the washer reservoirs and the stupid lids that open the wrong way.