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best paint product to use on floor and undercarriage

Started by charger2fast4u, August 30, 2007, 08:13:31 PM

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best way to go

use POR 15
8 (80%)
primer and paint
2 (20%)
other ?
0 (0%)

Total Members Voted: 10

charger2fast4u

i'm in the middle of sandblasting my floor, trunk and undercarriage my question is what would be the best coating to use on themĀ  i was going to use POR 15 but now that i seen some threads about it i'm kind of rethinking about itĀ  any input is welcome

Silver R/T

If there's no rust on there just use self etching primer and primer surfacer or just good PPG DPLF series epoxy primer
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

charger2fast4u

any other suggestions i don't want to paint it and a year down the line it start to chip and start rusting what did you's all use to paint your floor with

Charger-Bodie

i like a product called chassis saver, but the best thing to do is sand blast , epoxy prime then paint !
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

Lord Warlock

I'll use Por 15 myself, the stuff i've used from them in the past seems to do a good job if you follow directions.  I'm sure some of the other treatments work as well or better, but i read about por15 20 years ago, and it was a recognized quality product then, and its still around.  For chassis parts i plan on por15 chassis black.  I used por15 to paint the floor, but i forgot whether i ever topcoated it or not, i guess i'll figure that out when I get done with the body, and move to the inside, i'll take out the seats and carpet and see whats there still Think i used por15 silver on the floor but just can't remember for sure.  If it isn't topcoated, i'll be able to repaint the floor with the same poly primer and poly enamels i used on the body.  I plan on repainting the trunk floor once i get the exterior done,  (have the bumpers in the trunk right now) I treated the rear floor of the trunk with por15 going on 16 years ago, and there is no new rust back there. 
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

BlueSS454

I had my 69 sandblasted, then I blew a coat of epoxy primer on it.  Once I finished the metal work completly, I flipped the car on it's side (rotisserie), and painted the entire bottom of the car with a single stage urethane.
Tom Rightler

charger2fast4u

so what im getting from this is that most just primer and paint it with regular automotive paint ? not any special paints like POR 15 or other hardening paints

BlueSS454

Personally, I'll never use POR15 on anything, I think it's garbage.  Sandblasting, a good epoxy primer, and a single stage urethane paint with is the way to go.   Single Stage urethane paints are a 2 part mixture, paint and hardener/activator.  The stuff gets rock solid and it's easy enough to repair if you get a chip or knick in it.
Tom Rightler

charger2fast4u

does it chip easy and how often does it get chipped by rocks ect from the road

BlueSS454

It takes alot to chip it.  I don't have any driven miles on my 69 yet, but there is about 300 miles worth of pulling it on an open trailer with an open center.  I've also welded pieces on the inside part of the cab and it hasn't blown the paint off underneath.  I'm not saying that anyone should do that and expect nothing to happen, but the single stage urethane paint is some durable stuff.
Tom Rightler

73chargers4404

I still like POR-15 ,ive had good luck with it ,theres been a few places where i did shity prep work and its peeled the transmission tunnel was coeted in grime and grease and i though it was just under coating and it peeled a little but what paint wouldnt.ever where else it rock hard ,you have to clean the shit out of what your shoting and it stick good ,we had a paint can lid that had por on it and after it dried i took a punch and beat the hell out of the back side then bent it back and forth thorgh the middle of the paint and  it never peeled or cracked.

charger2fast4u

what did you's use for prepping the surface after it was sandblasted to get all them tiny sand grits off of the floor

73chargers4404

Sandblasted then cleaned the hell out of it sounds weird with dish soap then used por-15 marine clean and cleaned some more used  a scotch bright pad then washed off with a power washer then used por-15 metal ready scotch brighted into the metal witch etches the metal and leaves a zinc coating for the paint to stick to ,this shit stinks it smells just like Deponts metal coditioner i kind wonder if its not about the same thing .I was happy with there engine paint to real high gloss, I sprayed it on and it looks very nice,ive allso used there metal mask  its real good on front end parts like tie rods it looks like stock but keeps them from rusting .

BlueSS454

After I had the 69 sandblasyed, all I did was blow it off for almost an hour to get all the sand out/off the surface.  I didn't use any kind of cleaner on the blasted metal, just compressed air, and I didn't touch it anywhere.  Then once I was done that, I blew a coat of epoxy on.
Tom Rightler

charger2fast4u


bill440rt

Yes, the BEST thing to use on properly prepared floorpans, etc is epoxy primer & paint, if that's the level of resto you're doing.

If you're on a budget, POR-15 will work as well, but it must be prepared as per their instructions. I did my '70 with sandblasting, metal etching primer, then a filler primer, then epoxy primer/sealer, then base clear. Wet sanding on a creeper under the car sucked a$$, I might add. It was on the rotisserie WAY too long for me, I wanted it back on the ground.

I used POR-15 on my '69 project, which is being done on a tight budget. They also make several tie-coat non-sanding primers which are designed to go over cured POR-15 & let's you spray any top coat (paint) over it that you'd like. So far, I've been very pleased with the results.

I guess it all depends on how far you want to take it.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

speedfreak68

What about spraying on some sort of a bed liner? If your car was driven alot then that might last longer than just a single stage epoxy