stalling 5.2

[jackel440]

I know this isn't charger related ,but i need some help on my truck i just got going.Here is the details.
92' w150,magnum 5.2,I just overhauled the transmission(auto w/OD),put in another rearend.
Drove it to work this morning for the first time.fired up and run good this morning.Once I got down the road and went to stop at the first 4way stop.It would want to die.I found i had to keep my foot on the gas pedal when i went to stop.When i got on the highway the truck seemed to run good and shift good.(maybe i did the tranny right   )When I got into town I noticed it was wanting to surge at idled.I got it parked in the lot here at work and I tried to raise the throttle rpm's and it would rev up and down.and also seem like it was tring to load up.I could rev it up and it would clean up ,but if i let off the gas it would die.Only would idle with me giving it gas.Sometimes It will almost die at idle then catch itself and keep running.
Sorry so long,but i was trying to tell you what it did this mornig.I know when I brought it home a month ago.I had a code for a MAP sensor voltage i believe according to ALLPAR since the manual i have didn't show that number.I don't want to just throw parts at this truck.I need to make it reliable.I started mounting a snow plow on it and I will need it this winter to use.
Where do I need to go with my trouble shooting?I have never had to work on this fuel injected stuff to much.

[Todd Wilson]

Its telling you whats wrong.  Research the MAP code and check into that.


Todd

[jackel440]

I went out at lunch and the codes come up number wise12,37,51,55
my factory service manual shows nothing for the 12,55
37 is an open or shorted circuit in the TQ lock up circuit.
51 Oxygen signal stays below center(lean).
I drove it to Mc donalds and it was definatly loading up with fuel.

Its telling you whats wrong. Research the MAP code and check into that.


Todd

I thought thats what i had come across when i messed with it a couple of weeks ago before i tore the tranny out of it.I think i went to allpar and looked in thier generic code list and it said something to that effect.I can't acccess thier site from work and see if the 12  or 55 code is on thier list.

I was trying to look through the factory manual and It looks like maybe i need to investigate the EGR valve too.Does anyone know what the 12,55 code is?
I wondered if the 55 might be the number telling you its done not sure though
thanks guys

[Plumcrazy]

Code 12 is loss of battery voltage.  It sets when you disconnect the battery to erase the codes.
Code 55 is end of codes.   Ignore both of them.

Have the codes read with a scan tool.   The flashing check engine light method is not reliable on Chrysler vehicles built after the late 80's

[jackel440]

I will have to find someone that can scan it then.I heard that some places do that for free.I know we have an advance auto here in town.I will have to stop by there.
I was able to get to another site here at work and it says that the oxygen sensor if bad can cause it to dump lots of fuel and cause the same conditions.After it throwing the 51 code I can see that as a possibillty.
gonna have to wait till after work i guess.

[aifilaw]

I went out at lunch and the codes come up number wise12,37,51,55
my factory service manual shows nothing for the 12,55
37 is an open or shorted circuit in the TQ lock up circuit.
51 Oxygen signal stays below center(lean).
I drove it to Mc donalds and it was definatly loading up with fuel.

Its telling you whats wrong. Research the MAP code and check into that.


Todd

I thought thats what i had come across when i messed with it a couple of weeks ago before i tore the tranny out of it.I think i went to allpar and looked in thier generic code list and it said something to that effect.I can't acccess thier site from work and see if the 12  or 55 code is on thier list.

I was trying to look through the factory manual and It looks like maybe i need to investigate the EGR valve too.Does anyone know what the 12,55 code is?
I wondered if the 55 might be the number telling you its done not sure though
thanks guys

If the lockup circuit is shorted, then it would be locking the converter at idle and everywhere....which if this is the case will cause it to stumble and die at idle, and break down the other parts of the tranny during other operations, mainly shifting

[jackel440]

I went out at lunch and the codes come up number wise12,37,51,55
my factory service manual shows nothing for the 12,55
37 is an open or shorted circuit in the TQ lock up circuit.
51 Oxygen signal stays below center(lean).
I drove it to Mc donalds and it was definatly loading up with fuel.

Its telling you whats wrong. Research the MAP code and check into that.


Todd

I thought thats what i had come across when i messed with it a couple of weeks ago before i tore the tranny out of it.I think i went to allpar and looked in thier generic code list and it said something to that effect.I can't acccess thier site from work and see if the 12 or 55 code is on thier list.

I was trying to look through the factory manual and It looks like maybe i need to investigate the EGR valve too.Does anyone know what the 12,55 code is?
I wondered if the 55 might be the number telling you its done not sure though
thanks guys

If the lockup circuit is shorted, then it would be locking the converter at idle and everywhere....which if this is the case will cause it to stumble and die at idle, and break down the other parts of the tranny during other operations, mainly shifting

I didn't have any driveability issues with the tranny such as locking up.when i brought the truck home it was stuck in lock up and I did a complete tear down and rebuild of the tranny.I also installed a new lock up convertor.I had an electrician friend of mine check the solenoids and he said they were ok.I will need to check the harness when i get it home to solve this one.
The trans. shifted correctly when i drove it today.I do not believe it went into lock up though(maybe an open condition).Does it lock up before or after the OD engages.I need a tach on this truck to see what it is doing.
It is also doing this loading up and dying when in park so I don't believe it is isolated to the tranny.
man all this electronic crap is a pain.
I almost wish it had a carb and points

[aifilaw]

I used to think the same way, until I was forced to learn it on an OBD-I and realized that just like a carb and points, if you know the system, its just as simple to diagnose.
Sounds like the lockup code is simply stuck in there from when it actually happened, you need to clear your codes and then scan it again after driving it to see what new pops up.

[Silver R/T]

possibly vacuum problem

[Todd Wilson]

It very well could be the oxygen sensor acting up.  When the PCM is in open loop it doesnt check the O2 sensor.

Open loop is start up and warm up,WOT,accelerationa dn deceleration.  Idle and cruise is where it will check.

My experience with O2 is if something fails it goes into a limp mode and your vehicle continues to run but not at a good power and emission level.


But one other thing is its throwing a 12 out which means its lost its battery power recently. This could be from you disconnecting the battery or the battery itself wigging out. Battery voltage can cause stalling and rough idle and the PCM is sensitive to battery voltage. There have been times where a battery is getting old and in any other vehicle will be fine but on the Ram's the computer PCM will freak out.


Spend some time here reading!

http://dodgeram.org/


Todd

[jackel440]

It very well could be the oxygen sensor acting up. When the PCM is in open loop it doesnt check the O2 sensor.

Open loop is start up and warm up,WOT,accelerationa dn deceleration. Idle and cruise is where it will check.

My experience with O2 is if something fails it goes into a limp mode and your vehicle continues to run but not at a good power and emission level.


But one other thing is its throwing a 12 out which means its lost its battery power recently. This could be from you disconnecting the battery or the battery itself wigging out. Battery voltage can cause stalling and rough idle and the PCM is sensitive to battery voltage. There have been times where a battery is getting old and in any other vehicle will be fine but on the Ram's the computer PCM will freak out.


Spend some time here reading!

http://dodgeram.org/


Todd

Todd, thanks for the link I have been there before they have some good info there.
You were correct as i did have the battery unhooked for quite awhile.I went to advance auto parts and had them use thier scan tool and they had the same exact codes i came up with using the ign key.Theyreset the codes and i drove it home.I still have the 12,37,55.showing.
I started the truck and it starts fine cold.run up the rpm's and after a bit it was loading up again,missing out, and died at idle.rechecked the codes and I still got the same ones.
Now shouldn't the check engine light come on when it dies and runs bad.My light still has not come on.It never has the whole time.My required Maintnance light is on.I looked in the manual and it says that it has to be reset with the dealer scan tool.Maybe this would be a cause?The manual says the ight is to show the truck is supposed to have work done to its emission components at around 80K.My truck has 187,500 miles on it.
I am still trying to decide if I should get the O2 sensor and throw it at it.I have to take my cub scouts to a car show today so I probably won't get to work on it tonight.

[Todd Wilson]

Its been my experience that the mopars will flash accurate codes. Also my expeirence that if something trips a code the Check Engine light will come on. On my dodges and my honda both. If that code 37 is the oxy sensor thats what I would do.


Todd

[jackel440]

Well car show was a rain out so i came home watched a movie and then went out to the shop.I decided to pull the wires and check them.They seemed to check ok for resistance,in spec by the service manual.I took the plugs out and man I think they might be the originals.they looked good ,but they were wore down to about .070" 
I think the plugs and wires might just be originals.There is a mark on the wires "g-91"I beleive since this truck is a 92' would it be possible for these to have been made in 91'
So I regapped what was left ,and put them back in and fired it up.seemed to run a little better.Still seemed to run a little ruff ,but i didn't get a chance to take it out for a drive.I figure the cap and rotor don't look much better either.
My check engine light is still is not coming on even though i can get codes with the key.Is there anyway to reset the codes or am i going to have to take it in and have some when hook it up to a machine?

[jackel440]

Oh I did want to mention when i fired up the truck without the air cleaner on I was getting a loud sound comin from the top of the throttle body.i would rev it up and then let it return to idle.After about 20 seconds it would gradually start hissing.I could put my hand over the top of the throttle body and it would feel like air blowing out.Right above the AIS idle speed motor.Does this seem normal?I believe i need to take the throttle body off and clean it.I have read on some other sites that you need to clean the AIS and the throttlebody were it mounts.I just wondered if this sounds like normal operation?

[Todd Wilson]

Unhook the battery for a minute and it should reset the codes. 12 and 55 will be there.  Might try some new plugs too!   



Todd

[jackel440]

UPDATE!!!
  Alright last night got a chance to turn some wrenchs.I installed all new plugs,cap+rotor,plug wires.The truck started better and seemed to run better.still is running rich though.Seems to have a rough idle though.I let the truck run in the shop till it was good and warm.I could rev it up,and it would actually idle without dying.
Now I thought what a great idea to take it for a drive.
So I backed it out of the shop about 100' turned around in the yard.Went to pull out on the drive again,and got half way in the drive and the lights went dim.Then the truck decided to just shut off.
So now its blocking the drive ,and will do nothing.I have head lights,the power windows will work(thank goodness it was supposed to rain)hazzard lamps work.Oh and the blower fan will come on.I have no starter,instruments,check engine light.When you turn the key on there is nothing.like you took the battery out.Connections are good I just cleaned them,and put dielectric grease on the posts.It all happened last night at 11:pm so i had to go to bed so I will check it out when i get home from work today.I am just perplexed at why it dimmed the lights and just shut itself off
I thought I was on my way to gettn it running good

[aifilaw]

shot in the dark...
jump it without your battery, take off the cables and see if it still runs.

side note: low voltage wreaks havoc on older PCM's

[jackel440]

well I dort of did jump it.
I started diggin around in the harness and found a burnt fusible link.so I hooked what was left of it back together and started it up.Started putting fuses back in to find the cicuit that was giving me problems.Well no dice,I had them all in and it was still running.Tried to put it back in the shop.As soon as I got it in gear poof! it died.I unhooked the overdrive,torque convertor unlock solenoid wires.Rerigged the link and tried it in gear and it was fine.
So I looked for a shorted wire in the harness and they all checked out ok.Looks like I will try to get a new solenoid assembly for it tomorrow.
I hope this fixes it