So what do you think of my custom torque rod?

[Hemidoug]

Well, after ripping up the third and last left hand motor mount (a Mitymount at that) I finally decided to do something about it. This is my own design that a friend of mine made up at work. I think I have about 20 bucks in parts in it. I still have to get it powder coated but I wanted to test it out first. It works great! So what do you guys think, does it look out of place or is it OK? With 600 HP on tap coupled to a 4 spd ( and a gear grabbing nut behind the wheel) its sorely needed. Man what a pain it is to change motor mounts in a Hemi car!

[71ChallengeHer]

( and a gear grabbing nut behind the wheel)

  Actually, it looks pretty good.

[Hemidoug]

( and a gear grabbing nut behind the wheel)

  Actually, it looks pretty good.

Thanks! Anytime you want another ride, just let me know....I'll get into the secondaries next time! 

[Charger-Bodie]

hey Doug
         Do you have like a shock bushing on the bottom or somthing or is it pretty much rigid? its very similar to my schumaker setup.

[Hemidoug]

hey Doug
         Do you have like a shock bushing on the bottom or somthing or is it pretty much rigid? its very similar to my schumaker setup.

I'm using a rubber shock bushing with a washer and lock nut on the bottom side of the bar stock as a rubber isolater. It worked out well. The schumaker setup is what I got the idea from. 

[RD]

the only thing I, personally, am worried about is if your water pump housing will be able to handle those stressors on it.  Is the pump housing an aluminum one or iron?  Is there somwhere on the block that you could fasten that puppy to?  Probably not.

I wonder if you could cut into that upper bolt mount mid-rift and mount the eyelet in between the two, thus equalizing the stress on the metal without causing the bolt to mildly cantilever itself within the mount hole.

I am probably overthinking this, but oh well.

Anyway, I think it looks very nice and will work great, but with your LEADFOOT, the question is for how long?   

um... i do not have photochop, sorry

[70charginglizard]

That sweet!

That otta hold that hemi in place. 

[bull]

I was going to say what RD already said. Hopefully you're not just moving the problem to another location.

[SeattleCharger]

That is a good idea, looks good,  rubber bushing good idea, or put a bushing on each end of the mounting bracket that goes to the frame between the bracket and the frame also,  I don't know

[Todd Wilson]

With 600 HP on tap coupled to a 4 spd ( and a gear grabbing nut behind the wheel) its sorely needed. Man what a pain it is to change motor mounts in a Hemi car!

Cry me a river!!!!!!!           



Todd

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Looks good Doug.  My Schmacher one bolts up to one of the motor mount bolts.....same principle but 3x the price of yours

[Hemidoug]

That is a good idea, looks good,  rubber bushing good idea, or put a bushing on each end of the mounting bracket that goes to the frame between the bracket and the frame also,  I don't know

Actually, you want the rod to have freedom of movement so you only want to bush one direction. You still need to damper vibration, otherwise I could just put solid mounts in and be done. Since there is no need to limit engine travel in the other direction there is no need to bush it on top. By bushing the bracket instead of the rod, you would limit travel in both directions but also limit the amount of dampining. The purpose of the torque rod is to assist and limit the amount of stretch the motor mount sees. It isn't supposed to replace the motor mount, just help it out under high load.

the only thing I, personally, am worried about is if your water pump housing will be able to handle those stresses on it.  Is the pump housing an aluminum one or iron?  Is there somewhere on the block that you could fasten that puppy to?  Probably not.

I wonder if you could cut into that upper bolt mount mid-rift and mount the eyelet in between the two, thus equalizing the stress on the metal without causing the bolt to mildly cantilever itself within the mount hole.

I am probably overthinking this, but oh well.

Anyway, I think it looks very nice and will work great, but with your LEADFOOT, the question is for how long?   

um... i do not have photochop, sorry

The water pump housing is cast iron, but I don't think you would see all that much stress in that area. As stated above, it doesn't replace the motor mount, just assist it under high load. The rubber bushing will dampen any stress associated with high loads. If you have ever seen how the engine mounts are attached on Hemi applications you would notice a complete lack of room to mount anything down in that area. Any mounting point would require a 90 degree bend and the associated weakness of that bend. This is a straight shot to the mounting point, thru 1/4 inch bar stock and attached to the bottom of the K frame. Any load that is transfered to the bar stock is supported by the structure of the K frame not the attaching hardware. The studs on both ends of the bar are 7/16-20, certainly strong enough to withstand the stresses involved.

[SeattleCharger]

I see now that you need some movement.    I was talking about a bushing at these points between the bracket and frame, but bolted down tight, to increase dampening, but leaving the rest of your design the way it is.   It wouldn't effect movement of rod,  but it might slightly dampen vibration if that is an issue at all, I don't know.     

            hmm, kinda looks now that these points have a spot weld?  never mind.  was thinking that they were bolted at this point (arrows), whereas you could just put a rubber bushing on bolt in between bracket and frame, bolted down tight,

[firefighter3931]

Looks good Doug ! 


Here's how i do them :

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,13216.0.html



Ron

[Hemidoug]

Looks good Doug ! 


Here's how i do them :

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,13216.0.html



Ron

Yea Ron, that is a good way of doing it. The problem is that the hemi mounts don't leave enough room in them to mount the bolt heads. You would have to drill clearance holes in the mounts to the block and/or K frame in order to clear. The Mitymounts do the same thing but are counter sunk on both sides...they lasted about 1000 miles before I was able to pull the bolt heads thru the countersinks! . Just not strong enough I guess... BTW...they have a lifetime warrentee so I guess I'll be selling the new one when I get it .

  hmm, kinda looks now that these points have a spot weld?  never mind.  was thinking that they were bolted at this point (arrows), whereas you could just put a rubber bushing on bolt in between bracket and frame, bolted down tight,

They are bolted from underneath. I used 1/4 inch bolts to attach the bracket to the underside of the K frame. I doubt they will see much stress, most of that will be transfered directly to the K frame from underneath.

[keepat]

Doug, Have you used the Schumacher magnum polyloc mounts? or are the mounts you have replaced some other?
Pat.