Rocker Arms

[Hot_Rodder]

I was running around the net, traveled over to Hughes, and came across these:
http://www.hughesengines.com/partDetail.asp?partID=11598&eTypeID=14
I got to wondering, what most people lean toward running. Now granting I know that price, and what you are doing with it are the main factors in this decision, but I thought I'd ask, so why not .

[Charger-Bodie]

i have a set of stainless stell roller rockers on my new 505  and like them so far they claim that they are quite a bit stronger than the alluminum ones and the were ALOT cheaper and they also have nice spacers instead of springs and clips like some others.

[Harlow]

I have a set of adjustable rocker arms. Should have them in tonight so I don't have any field tests with them yet.

[jg68]

For a hyd. or Solid Flat Tapped, i like the Crane Ductile Irons & Crane Pushrods, they were at 199.00 not too long ago & they are strong, strong, strong, the only issue would be the adjuster ball ends being weak & wearing quik, Crane sent me a new set though & all was well, at the time you just could'nt beat them for the price IMO, but now they are like 280.00 a set , you can still fetch-em cheap on e-bay

[Chryco Psycho]

I use either the Crane Ductile or the Comp Pro magnum rocker where adjustable rockers are required

[firefighter3931]

  Crane iron with a flat tappet hydraulic/solid cam. I like Harland Sharp for roller cams.



Ron

[Challenger340]

For Hyd. or Flat tappet Solid;

Crane Ductile Iron, or, "wait for it"... the Crane Gold Aluminum Roller.

Yep, thats right, I haven't had any problems with the Aluminum Roller Rockers from Crane, however, some things to look for when using them;

1.)  Careful to inspect the adjuster stud in the Rocker. Make sure it threads in tight, and the thread pitch has some interference fit. Many people had mysterious adjuster stud breakage, where it manifested itself as the stud breaking off right at the lock nut.

Lots of guys thought their adjuster stud & nut must be contacting their Rocker covers to break off like that, when actually, the poor pitch contact(loose stud), merely caused the adjuster nut to act as a fulcrum when snugged against the rocker arm.
The rest of the stud would "work harden" and eventually snap off.
Crane had some stud size problems years ago, hence why they sometimes still supply new correct size adjusters "gratis" when approached, in case some "old stock" is still out there.

2.) Do not overtorque the rocker shafts, the resultant ovaling of the shaft causes the Rocker to fail at the fulcrum. (any aluminum rocker)
Fulcrum failures are almost always the result of a frequency created @ rpm by the round hole running on the oval surface at spring pressures, similar to "brinnell'ing" on a roller bearing surface, like a wheel bearing.

Just my thoughts , Bob out.

[jg68]

For Hyd. or Flat tappet Solid;

Crane Ductile Iron, or, "wait for it"... the Crane Gold Aluminum Roller.

Yep, thats right, I haven't had any problems with the Aluminum Roller Rockers from Crane, however, some things to look for when using them;

1.)  Careful to inspect the adjuster stud in the Rocker. Make sure it threads in tight, and the thread pitch has some interference fit. Many people had mysterious adjuster stud breakage, where it manifested itself as the stud breaking off right at the lock nut.

Lots of guys thought their adjuster stud & nut must be contacting their Rocker covers to break off like that, when actually, the poor pitch contact(loose stud), merely caused the adjuster nut to act as a fulcrum when snugged against the rocker arm.
The rest of the stud would "work harden" and eventually snap off.
Crane had some stud size problems years ago, hence why they sometimes still supply new correct size adjusters "gratis" when approached, in case some "old stock" is still out there.

2.) Do not overtorque the rocker shafts, the resultant ovaling of the shaft causes the Rocker to fail at the fulcrum. (any aluminum rocker)
Fulcrum failures are almost always the result of a frequency created @ rpm by the round hole running on the oval surface at spring pressures, similar to "brinnell'ing" on a roller bearing surface, like a wheel bearing.

Just my thoughts , Bob out.

Very good points Bob