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Engine Wiring Harness Question....

Started by Hot_Rodder, August 21, 2007, 06:17:18 AM

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What would you suggest?

Beat it until it works?
2 (20%)
Kick it until it works?
2 (20%)
Shoot it?
4 (40%)
Burn it?
2 (20%)
Other? (please specify below)
0 (0%)

Total Members Voted: 10

Nacho-RT74

ok, that alt mounting is simply WRONG... incorrect brackets and is mounted upside down

YOU HAVE THE RIGHT HARNESS BUDDY, you don't need to get anything diff. Still don't get your complaint about the harness. what you have wrong on engine is the water pump housing. Does look a VERY OLD DESIGN.

definitelly something weird on front of engine, water pump housing, alt brackets, Fan iddler bolting area.

check this... this should it be the right setup. Notice the wire arriving at a side of upper alt bracket. Thats the sender location... same on Non A/C engines, just bracket change of position what would hide the sender and that's the reason of the non A/C bracket hole.
Of course you have eliminated the A/C compressor and installed an idler on place.

Is the same to any BB or RB engine.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

Another view from another engine with same setup. Even fan belt iddler does have lost the pulley is on the right location. Look the bracket and lower alt bracket on your setup.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Hot_Rodder

Looks like when this motor comes apart, it will be going back together right. When I got this car, this is how it was, so either someone did it wrong, or :shruggy:. Either way :eek2:. Wish I had some pic's of my ol' 440 to show, but they got wiped out :'(. I'll try and write down the casting #'s off the block where the starter is, but the important #'s are just to the side of the distributor, too bad it's not an R/B motor, then it would be right on the top..... ::).

Hot_Rodder

Just up under the car again.... Started looking at the cating #'s for the block, and noticed the date code. To say the least, it is most certainly not the original motor.... Of course, '71 was the last year for the 383 anyway, and this is a '72, so obviously it aint the original one anyway. But here's a question for those who like to guess, what year motor is in this car.
Here's the date, minus the year of course....
3(or 8 hard to tell right now)/14/19??

I'll post the year when I get back in a little bit later tonight. :icon_smile_cool:

Nacho-RT74

whats exactly the problem you are having with tranny harness ?
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Hot_Rodder

LOL, you caught that eh? I just figured out that I put it on some elses post :eyes:. Anyway, here's that post:
Always something......
What is it this time, the tranny harness....I unplugged the massivly cut up harness, went to try and plug in th new one, and can't get it plugged in... Maybe that's the least of my worries... I say that because (and maybe this I might need to ask Evans about), the new harness has three wires coming off of it, where as the old one had four..... Since the old harness wires, all except for one, was cut off at the connector, I can't tell you for sure if all four went to the tran's, and then the single wire went to , it wasn't plugged up, just laying around under the hood  . I could use a wiring harness diagram for this whole car, but sincei don't have one right now, I'm just having to deal with it for now, and hope that I don't make anyone mad with my questions, and continue to get feedback on all these problems that one of the previous owners have created.....

PS, I seem to have broken the upper starter mounting ear.... Might as well add this one to the books.... I don't know many this makes, but for some reason I have bad luck breaking these dang ears on these starters.... Also, this is a brandnew starter, thankfully the place is gonna replace it with a new one..



Now for the problem. I'm having a hard time trying to get the connector to slide on to the firewall, one of the prongs may not be quite lining up though... I don't know, being new it might just be trying to give me a hard time..... Also, on the old harness, there is a 4 prong harness, 1 that goes to? and the other 3 I'm assuming going to the tran's.... I was wondering if that 1 wire that's not present on this tranny harness will make any difference. Despite the fact that the factory probably put a few unneeded things on these cars, I don't think they'd throw a wire on it if it didn't serve some kind of purpose, and I'm wondering what this missing wire is?

Nacho-RT74

ok, first about the harness different plugs.

Does the new one  have 3 wires, black, black traced white and brown traced yellow ?

Does the old one have 4 wires, black, black traced white, green and blue ?

If so, then the harness you got was maybe done to 73/74 what has the starter ground brown wire spliced in to the cab to control the seatbelt buzzer with you put Tranny in Drive, for a while 71 and 72 don't have that splice into the cab. On 71/72 the two empty cavities at a side of both black wires were used to A/C blower and Compressor clutch wires ( green and blue ).

Need to check what you have on back of bulkhead &/or old harness and match the new harness. piece of cake.

Note: on back of bukhead, black wires turn on whites.

bout don't fit... yes could it be aligment problem
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Hot_Rodder

Trying to compare these is obvious of which wire I'm talking about, however, trying to tell wire color difference is another, LOL. ::) Anyway, as far as the inside of the car, I looked under the dash once since I've had it, and, to say the least, I'm affraid to look under there again right now... I started seeing wire splices here and there, ect ect ect..... :o :eek2:

Nacho-RT74

Ok, then you have apparently what I think it is a lates production 72 with seatbelst buzzers and everything like 73 and 74s what is controled together between belts sensors and tranny ground. But what I think is a big mistake is get joined both black wires with the brown one. The taped wires comes of course from tranny. The brown spliced from plug runs to starter relay Ground.

I say is a BIG mistake because one of the white wires comes directly from fuse box and drives POSITIVE, then becomes on one of the black wires up to NSS switch and power get back to cab when you put in REVERSE to turn on the rear lights. Mixing brown and black wires supposelly would get SHORT.

The other cut wire does look green and mostly sure is A/C or heater blower wire.

Then that would mean probably on your engine harness you have 2 blue wires coming out from plug... one is the one to feed everything on engine and the other one is to feed the A/C compressor clutch
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Hot_Rodder

I'm guessing you mean all this on the old harness. The only two that are connected here are the two brown with yellow tracer wires. One you say is the starter ground, and the other goes to the NSS along with the black and black with white tracer wires. As for the A/C part of it, I have a new A/C harness to, but the little tag on it says it's for '73-'74 B body, all ends have connectors (which isn't a problem, I'd just have to remove one of the connectors (black plastic part), and install it into the firewall connector..... Right now I need to go into town and take care of some stuff, when I get back, I'll shed some more light on this.

Maybe why the engine harness was easier to install on my ol '69 R/T was b/c they weren't cut up like this, and there wasn't as much as this, LOL. :smilielol:

Nacho-RT74

Some cars did came with A/C wires throught firewall with grommet from harness coming inside the cab, and some other had those on bulhead empty cavities... normally that tranny empty cavity one and the engine harnmess empty cavity if doesn't have tach, because engine harness just left one cavity that would be used to tach or compressor.

earliers 72s and 71s had two empty cavities on tranny plug since they didn't have the seatbelt buzzer and sensors on belt buckles, just the warning light and was time delay flasher controled, so Then Mopar used those two empty cavities on tranny plug to run the A/CX green and blue wires.

On old harness I mean I can see both black wires and brown wire cut and tied... that would cause short since black drives positive to reverse light and brown negative on P and N

IF you can take a pic of back of bulkhead will be helpfull to help you on match wiring. I would check engine harness section to BE SURE wires on bulkhead and nw harness matches. we don't want you put teh key on RUN and suddenly you get water from washer nozzles, LOL...
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Hot_Rodder

sounds like the ol' put it in drive and go backwards :smilielol:

Hot_Rodder

Ok, some more pic's.... Tell me what you think? Please remember, this is pretty much how I bought the car... And these are about the best shots I could do for right now..... :eek2:

Nacho-RT74

REMOVE THE FUSE BOX from bulkhead assembly... loose the clips what keeps on place and take pics to the wires inserted om bulkhead cavities. there is lot of stuff is new to me cliped on fuse box. I guess is power windos relay, and stuff like that ( sorry those extra equippments doesn't exist down here )
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Hot_Rodder

yeah, this car has afew options, heck it's only got 3 fender tags, lol...

Hot_Rodder

Here's one, I took a few others, but I guess the camera must have started to fog up for some reason.... I'm sure you will probably like to see these wires spread apart some, but I think I'll hold off until you say something about that, LOL. I got one other pic I need to try and retake of a connector behind the dash, I think it's the A/C control switch (the part that mounts to the dash) connector.....

Hot_Rodder

Here's some better pic's, plus the possible A/C connector, and some wires going to/from the connector....

Hot_Rodder

OK, I give up on that second pic, always something when trying to take that pic, and it isn't all that easy on just bending over backwards and crawling under this dash trying to get these, LOL. Anyway, what I was trying to point out is that, some of the wires coming off that connector are melted too.... Maybe this is a result of some moron tying those wires on the o/s of the bulhead connector together? :scratchchin:. Some people don't need to work on cars. :eek2: ::)

Nacho-RT74

as I thought you have compressor clutch wire on engine harness section ( blue ) and blower wire on tranny harness ( green spliced )... do you see the wires I'm talking ?

Mostly sure you have melted the heavy black wire cavitie coming from alt stud as far I can see. At least I can see terminal rusted... I suggest replace the terminal.

Melted plug is wiper switch... lot of rain around ? LOL... you can try to find another plug ( 72/74 ) and replace, cleand and polish terminals, and check the rest the terminals up to wiper motor.

I see the rest healthy, but will look further in afew moments, I'm fixing a cell phone charger for a friend.

Does you car have hideaways ? or cruise control ?
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

BTW I'm seeing the hazzard flasher could it be a regular one... I suggest change it for a heavy duty one
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Hot_Rodder

I think the wire in which you're refering about it the, from the very bottom, second row up, third wire over? As for the wipers.... Well. The switch isn't even in the car.... There's a replacement, but it's new, so exactly what has happened to make this connector to do this, I don't know :shruggy:. But as far as rain, usualy when it's hurricane season (like it is now), the rain picks up. Heck, right now there's a thunderstorm going through. Last week it rained quite a bit. As far as the hazzard flasher, it is probably a regular piece, I'll look into a heavy duty piece. I know I will be replacing the dash harness so I know I want be doing much work to this one for that reason. But until that time, I do want to replace any wires that may cause troubles, like that alternator wire. Which, by the way, I'm not sure exatly where it even goes, I say this b/c someone has added an aftermarket alt gauge, plus the factory gaugeis still in place. As far as why whoever added that aftermarket oil gauge (hince the mechanical line coming off the motor) instead of keeping the factory oil pressure gauge hooked up, once again,  :shruggy:. The guy I got the car from, probably couldn't answer a single one of these questions, and I'm not even going to attempt to try and get ahold of the owner before him... :eek2: It's only been atleast 10 years since that deal was done ::). The car does have hideaways, but doesn't have cruise control right now, and doesn't appear to have ever had it. It does have power windows though.

By the way, get that cell phone charger fixed?

Nacho-RT74

Quote from: Hot_Rodder on August 29, 2007, 02:28:20 PM
I think the wire in which you're refering about it the, from the very bottom, second row up, third wire over?
yes that taped one... thats compressor clutch. Green coming from same harness and entering on tranny section is the blower.


I see the harness very healthy, no reason to replace... just need get it order, cleaned or terminals replaced and job done. wipers just replace the plastic insulator, cleaning contacts first

Quote from: Hot_Rodder on August 29, 2007, 02:28:20 PM
By the way, get that cell phone charger fixed?

yes, was just cord broken inside AC plug case.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Hot_Rodder

I'm still planning on pulling everything eventualy to do a restoration of the car, at that time I can check the rest of the harness, hopefully all else will still be ok. Now for the next question, and for now, will be the last for wiring harnesses.... :-\ The new harness for the A/C set up, the tag says '73 - '74 B body A/C.... First, is there a difference in harnesses from the '72 model, and the listed '73 and '74 models? :shruggy: Also, where do all these wires go in the provided pic? Remember, there's no harness for A/C on the car now..... By the way, the light colored wire is some sort of light off shade of green... All others are just blue. ::)

Nacho-RT74

the difference on 71/72 and 73/74 is just the dryer location. 71/72 is on inner fender passenger side, for a while 73/74 is at a side of condensor. You don't have any problem because you have MORE WIRE that you actually need to get the front radiator on 73/74. Wrong would it be on backward since would need to get larger the blue pair.

Jut need MAYBE to get it short the blue pair and plug on dryer gas pressure sensor. This sensor cuts the power to clutch if there is not gas on system ( or pressure fail because low gas )

green to blower

Long blue running alone, to compressor clutch
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Hot_Rodder

Hey Nacho........ More questions for ya :lol:.
Yeah anyway, I pushed that connector out, the one that has that burned port. The connector looks badly corroded, but the wire itself, as far as I can tell by looking at the sheavthing, appears ok. Should I jusr worry about the connector, and maybe the wire is ok? Or should I start cutting all that wiring harness tape trying to trace that one wire down, and replace the whole wire? That's a lot of wires up unde rthere too :-\. I finaly got that starter on, and am ready to fire it up, but I don't wanna let any smoke out of it, well... Except for the smoke coming from the exhuast, lol. Dang blow by. Also, on the tranny wire connector area on the inside of the car, I think it's the bottom row, second up, far right, I think that wire is blue, but doesn't start off blue, at the beginning of that wire, it looks like it's been toasted, then again, that could be some tape, I need to go out there and look again, any ideas? But it's only the first two to three inches  :shruggy: ???