Engine Wiring Harness Question....

[Hot_Rodder]

  Ok, first off, the choices above are not being serious, I wouldn't plan on doing any of that stuff to my car on purpose, had ya going a little though...
Anyway, here's my problem (since this is my 3rd time trying to post this, I'll make it breif).
I bought 3 wiring harnesses from a certain place that I want mention the name of right now. They finaly came in, and gave them a little look over. Went ahead and pulled the old harness out, taking pic's of locations and so fourth. In one of the pic's below, you'll see the firewall connector for this harness being unplugged, and you'll notice that one of the ports are burned, anyone know what port this is? I need to get a wiring diagram for this car, but for right now, I don't have one . So, once trying to install the harness, I started noticing things that wasn't right, or doesn't seem to be right. Here are the things I've noticed so far:
1: When the harness connector comes out (the part that plugs into the firewall), there's only one wire that cuts back toward the brake booster, the old one had two
2: The new harness has more wires in it, than the old one
3: Location of some wires don't seem to line up right, and with the alternator plugged up, the temp sending unit wire has to stretch to reach the sending unit
4: Some of the connectors are different (the brake porportioning valve connector is different, and the main alternator connector wire is different)
5: Some of the wire colors don't match up
6: I'm sure there's more, but these are right off the top of my head

Now, I'm replacing the old harness for a number of reasons, most of which is, one of the previous owners, did a mean hack job on it. They cut off connectors, and left bare wires open, and then some. I don't have a lot to compare with, when it comes to the old harness, but something just doesn't seem right.

Anyway, check the pic's out, there's a few, and let me know what you think. I've been racking my brain some here, and I'm only getting closer to .

I've thought about ordering up a Year One harness, and compare them, but at $160+ well.....

[Hot_Rodder]

Here's a pic, please note the burned port on this firewall connector, does anyone know what port this is?

[Hot_Rodder]

And some more...

[Hot_Rodder]

and more.....

[Hot_Rodder]

I have a few other pic's to post, but due to there just over 200 kb size, I can't post them yet....

[Hot_Rodder]

OK, I sorta resized them.... Only thing is, I didn't resize them, I edited them... Put 'em on paint shop, and "erased" alot of the background that's not important, seems to have worked b/c it's no longer over 200 kb....

[Hot_Rodder]

Last pic to post.... By the way, can anyone tell me if they can see where the exhuast pipe stops now?

[Hot_Rodder]

OK, so anyone got any ideas? Like I said, I'm considering getting a harness from Year One, and compare the two.... I dun know

[Nacho-RT74]

Ok first does look you car is 71 because I can see electronic  regulator but not electronic ignition module on car. Harness on car and the one you got are for electrinic ignition modules. That's not really a problem since you simply can keep unplugged those ignition modules stuff unplugged and will work the same because points dist conects directly to - lead of coil. Then L shaped rubber plug and ECU plug will be floating around. Also ballast double plugs must be plugged on brown wire and any of blues.

The burn spot on bulhead mostly sure is the alternator wire whatr is not rare on Mopars. there ia a solution for that. Can you send me those pics to my email and I will ilustrate you whats the deal on this ? Will post here thought but resized

Damn, you have several harnesses hacked out!!! tranny harness for example. Does look you don't have back up lamps working properlly. Your actually engine harness too. Doesn't need to be hacked to make it works on a points system being electronic one.

If you think on hack it, the better sell to someone what needs it it and get a points one. If not then keep it and you'll have averything ready to electronic upgrade.

In advance I can say the worng color wires are on the one you had on car LOL... they must be cut and replaced at some point of harness.

At the very front of the harness pic ( new and old side by side ) I can say you, your one is hacked, the new one does have:
Violet 90º bullet kind terminal
L shaped rubber plug, Elec ingintion dist plug ( not used to you )
Blue female spade + source to field of alt
Green female spade - source to field of alt
Black heavy wire with eyelet term, Alt stud
Black traced white small eyelet terminal, - lead of coild coming from ECU ( not used to you... dist wire is the one must connected there on coil )
Brown female spade terminal, windshield washer motor ( what it says me that harness is 72 electronic, not 73/74  )
Brown eyelet terminal, + lead of coil
Blue spliced wire female spade, just right at the middle of harness, very bottom of pic, is source to electronic assist choke control unit ( not mounted on your car )

[Nacho-RT74]

Second pic I can see:
Same blue wire spliced on female spade terminal that pic above and already stated the function.

-Ecu Plug
-Regulator plug
-Ballast plugs, already attached. You can keep that ballast to work AS IS attaching to firewall with your actually setup, just that half of ballast will be the working. If you decide to run single ballast, then brown and blue spliced wires section of double plugs must be the ones plugged at single ballast.
-Gray wire to Oil sender. Apparently you don't have the elec sender unit, you have pressure guage inside you car where arrives directly the oil.

Lat pic appears same wires above plus the brake dist block black wire. Yeh diff plug but should work the same since is not more tha a bullet plug plugging on a stud ( similar to temp sender ). That's the brake fail sensor wire and would turn on brake light at clsuer if some pressure fail. Shares the function with emergency brake pedal.

The black spliced wire with a female spade terminal VERY CLOSE to bulkhead engine harness plug is not more than the brake dist block wire spliced for test purpouse. Plugs nowhere.

[ChgrSteve67]

I paid $1,000 for all new wiring harnesses for my Charger from Year One and they were worth every penny.

Will cost less than a car fire later.

Steve ( Just my 2 cents )

[Ghoste]

See above. 

[Hot_Rodder]

Hey Nacho, see you found this post, LOL. Anyway, one of the previous owners did this hack job, and I hate it, alot. Anyway, I'll be replacing the points setup with an electronic setup, so those connectors for the distributor and control unit will be used. This Charger is a '72, manufacture date, if memory serves me right , is 2/72..... I'll make copies of the wiring details, and take it to the car with me, and see what's what. As for pic's, which one(s) you want? If you'd like some taken a little closer up of things, I can do that too. I started installing the harness on the car, and hooked up what I could, but there are a number of ends with no apparent place to go.... Some I know where they go, but the rest . The ones I do know about are the ECU connector, and the distributor connector, the rest I'll look at with what you've posted above. I've gotten a Year One harness before on a '69 Charger R/T that I had with 440/auto, and it was a nice fit, even though the car has only been gone fore a couple of years now, I miss it .

Since I've started running the wires on the car, I may take a pic or two of it, I've not plugged the bulkhead connector up as of yet though.

[Nacho-RT74]

1: When the harness connector comes out (the part that plugs into the firewall), there's only one wire that cuts back toward the brake booster, the old one had two
2: The new harness has more wires in it, than the old one
3: Location of some wires don't seem to line up right, and with the alternator plugged up, the temp sending unit wire has to stretch to reach the sending unit
4: Some of the connectors are different (the brake porportioning valve connector is different, and the main alternator connector wire is different)
5: Some of the wire colors don't match up
6: I'm sure there's more, but these are right off the top of my head

1:it could be the wiper washer bottle was relocated on to driver side for  while originally 71/72 are on passanger side inner fender
2:jacked off... dist wires where cut for example because your one is not electronic, is points, and maybe to not get the plug floating around. Oil sender is not anymore electrical on your car, replaced with a mechanical system, then wire cut too. Probably the same with temp sender. Coils is being feeded directly from ballast and was unused the bypass ballast feed from ignition switch... not good, then PROBABLY harder to start, specially cold.
3:brake plug is diff shape but works the same. Harness is noticeable new repro. Alt stud is same, just without collar insulator.
5: the new one is the right colors setup. Old one probably replaced because some damages on some point.
6:OK... keep them coming

Probably ( mostly sure ) the YO harness IS THAT SAME ONE you already have.

If you want an opinion YOU HAVE THE EXACT AND PERFECT HARNESS to your car and ready to electronic ignition setup upgrade. If you don't go BY NOW with elec upgrade, you can use that same harness anyway, just that Module plug, Dist plug, and eyelet terminal black traced white wire to - lead of coil will keep unplugged.

Now pics with labels and legen

[69bronzeT5]

What about all of the above??

[Nacho-RT74]

Tranny harness needs to be checked or replaced.

Burn spot... terminal needs to be removed from bulhead then cleaned and reinstalled, or better, terminal replaced. Must be the alt stud wire. Tipical Mopar stuff.

Headdlights harness looks perfect and healthy on bulhead plug, but mostly sure must have a similar burnt spot at heavy red wire cavity

[Hot_Rodder]

Well, that blows, I had posted a nice reply, and it didn't go through.... Figures... Anyhow, thanks for the pic's with explanations Nacho. The pic's that I'm trying to upload... Are of how the wiring harness is ran right now... Don't think I did a bad job going at it blindedly.... Anyway, I will be converting the car back to electronic ign with a Mopar Dist, and a chrome box.... So... As far as the tran's harness, I have a new one also, and I even have a new A/C harness. The rest of the harnesses are still at a store because this place only had these three harnesses for this car... Anyway, since this does seem to be an accurate repoduction of this harness, and seems to be a very good repoduction of it, here's a link to there site (Nacho, you should know which one it is already due to the fact that the link is over at wicharger)... http://evanswiring.tripod.com/index.html There may be some pop up ads, so be forwarned, I have pop up blocker, so I didn't see any.

[Hot_Rodder]

Try this again, here's the last 2 pic's, the first I had to modify for size reasons, even though it was at the max size limit of 200 KB, it wouldn't take it, so now it's under 200 KB....

[Nacho-RT74]

never have seen before that water temp sender location. Normally is at alt bracket area..

Yes I know evanswiring website, but I make my own harnesses. I won't pay thatmuch for something I made in $20-40 as much ( reusing plastic plugs ). BTW, pop ups ARE REALLY POP UPS, not enlarged pics windows. Just got an engine harness from ebay mostly because 74 is different setup, and my harness has cracked several of the plugs. Also several splices I'm trying to eliminate.

[Hot_Rodder]

Nacho, when I first saw the temp sender, I thought the same thing. So I tried to see if there was another hole around the alternator bracket (like it was on my old 440), and I have not seen one... I'm not sure what 383 this is, as far as what year, and what it came out of, so.... Maybe on this particular motor, they put it here for some reason?

[Nacho-RT74]

that's because you where SEARCHING FOR A HOLE like the Alt bracket to NON A/C set ups. you have an A/C setups with compressor removed and a pulley instead. A/C setups  use a smaller alt bracket bolted on different places and water temp sender is not thorught a hole, is at a side of bracket, on curved inner area.

[Hot_Rodder]

Hmmm... Well, looks like I need to look in anothe area also. That 440 originaly came with A/C, this motor, 383, probably didn't, but then again

[Hot_Rodder]

I just took these two pic's, a bit messy, but heck, lets see here, previous owner let it sit for a few years.... Owner before apparently hacked the wiring harness... And before that, who knows.... It'll be treated right now, well, do the best I can with what I got.

[srpntlair1]

How true it is or not, I don't know, but I heard YR 1 has the rights to mopar wiring harnesses. All I know of as a fact is when I ordered my engine harness 73 400 AC car all plugs terminal ends and everything else were so exact that my 6 yr old son could have connected everything just because it was pretty much everything ended right where it needed to be

[Hot_Rodder]

Like I had said above, the engine harness for my old '69 R/T I had, to say the least, I had no complaints what so ever. Only thing about this car, is that, despite being a B engine in a '72 car, it's not the original motor, and I don't know what it came out of, and, for right now, I don't know what year motor it is.... So, to say if the harness is right, it maybe, but there may be some differences with this motor versus the original 400 that was in it (other than the bore diameter, amoung other basic differences)... I don't know. I'm still pondering getting a Year One harness, and comparing these together, but if I do, that will have to hold off for a second...

[Nacho-RT74]

ok, that alt mounting is simply WRONG... incorrect brackets and is mounted upside down

YOU HAVE THE RIGHT HARNESS BUDDY, you don't need to get anything diff. Still don't get your complaint about the harness. what you have wrong on engine is the water pump housing. Does look a VERY OLD DESIGN.

definitelly something weird on front of engine, water pump housing, alt brackets, Fan iddler bolting area.

check this... this should it be the right setup. Notice the wire arriving at a side of upper alt bracket. Thats the sender location... same on Non A/C engines, just bracket change of position what would hide the sender and that's the reason of the non A/C bracket hole.
Of course you have eliminated the A/C compressor and installed an idler on place.

Is the same to any BB or RB engine.

[Nacho-RT74]

Another view from another engine with same setup. Even fan belt iddler does have lost the pulley is on the right location. Look the bracket and lower alt bracket on your setup.

[Hot_Rodder]

Looks like when this motor comes apart, it will be going back together right. When I got this car, this is how it was, so either someone did it wrong, or . Either way . Wish I had some pic's of my ol' 440 to show, but they got wiped out . I'll try and write down the casting #'s off the block where the starter is, but the important #'s are just to the side of the distributor, too bad it's not an R/B motor, then it would be right on the top..... .

[Hot_Rodder]

Just up under the car again.... Started looking at the cating #'s for the block, and noticed the date code. To say the least, it is most certainly not the original motor.... Of course, '71 was the last year for the 383 anyway, and this is a '72, so obviously it aint the original one anyway. But here's a question for those who like to guess, what year motor is in this car.
Here's the date, minus the year of course....
3(or 8 hard to tell right now)/14/19??

I'll post the year when I get back in a little bit later tonight.

[Nacho-RT74]

whats exactly the problem you are having with tranny harness ?

[Hot_Rodder]

LOL, you caught that eh? I just figured out that I put it on some elses post . Anyway, here's that post:
Always something......
What is it this time, the tranny harness....I unplugged the massivly cut up harness, went to try and plug in th new one, and can't get it plugged in... Maybe that's the least of my worries... I say that because (and maybe this I might need to ask Evans about), the new harness has three wires coming off of it, where as the old one had four..... Since the old harness wires, all except for one, was cut off at the connector, I can't tell you for sure if all four went to the tran's, and then the single wire went to , it wasn't plugged up, just laying around under the hood  . I could use a wiring harness diagram for this whole car, but sincei don't have one right now, I'm just having to deal with it for now, and hope that I don't make anyone mad with my questions, and continue to get feedback on all these problems that one of the previous owners have created.....

PS, I seem to have broken the upper starter mounting ear.... Might as well add this one to the books.... I don't know many this makes, but for some reason I have bad luck breaking these dang ears on these starters.... Also, this is a brandnew starter, thankfully the place is gonna replace it with a new one..



Now for the problem. I'm having a hard time trying to get the connector to slide on to the firewall, one of the prongs may not be quite lining up though... I don't know, being new it might just be trying to give me a hard time..... Also, on the old harness, there is a 4 prong harness, 1 that goes to? and the other 3 I'm assuming going to the tran's.... I was wondering if that 1 wire that's not present on this tranny harness will make any difference. Despite the fact that the factory probably put a few unneeded things on these cars, I don't think they'd throw a wire on it if it didn't serve some kind of purpose, and I'm wondering what this missing wire is?

[Nacho-RT74]

ok, first about the harness different plugs.

Does the new one  have 3 wires, black, black traced white and brown traced yellow ?

Does the old one have 4 wires, black, black traced white, green and blue ?

If so, then the harness you got was maybe done to 73/74 what has the starter ground brown wire spliced in to the cab to control the seatbelt buzzer with you put Tranny in Drive, for a while 71 and 72 don't have that splice into the cab. On 71/72 the two empty cavities at a side of both black wires were used to A/C blower and Compressor clutch wires ( green and blue ).

Need to check what you have on back of bulkhead &/or old harness and match the new harness. piece of cake.

Note: on back of bukhead, black wires turn on whites.

bout don't fit... yes could it be aligment problem

[Hot_Rodder]

Trying to compare these is obvious of which wire I'm talking about, however, trying to tell wire color difference is another, LOL. Anyway, as far as the inside of the car, I looked under the dash once since I've had it, and, to say the least, I'm affraid to look under there again right now... I started seeing wire splices here and there, ect ect ect.....

[Nacho-RT74]

Ok, then you have apparently what I think it is a lates production 72 with seatbelst buzzers and everything like 73 and 74s what is controled together between belts sensors and tranny ground. But what I think is a big mistake is get joined both black wires with the brown one. The taped wires comes of course from tranny. The brown spliced from plug runs to starter relay Ground.

I say is a BIG mistake because one of the white wires comes directly from fuse box and drives POSITIVE, then becomes on one of the black wires up to NSS switch and power get back to cab when you put in REVERSE to turn on the rear lights. Mixing brown and black wires supposelly would get SHORT.

The other cut wire does look green and mostly sure is A/C or heater blower wire.

Then that would mean probably on your engine harness you have 2 blue wires coming out from plug... one is the one to feed everything on engine and the other one is to feed the A/C compressor clutch

[Hot_Rodder]

I'm guessing you mean all this on the old harness. The only two that are connected here are the two brown with yellow tracer wires. One you say is the starter ground, and the other goes to the NSS along with the black and black with white tracer wires. As for the A/C part of it, I have a new A/C harness to, but the little tag on it says it's for '73-'74 B body, all ends have connectors (which isn't a problem, I'd just have to remove one of the connectors (black plastic part), and install it into the firewall connector..... Right now I need to go into town and take care of some stuff, when I get back, I'll shed some more light on this.

Maybe why the engine harness was easier to install on my ol '69 R/T was b/c they weren't cut up like this, and there wasn't as much as this, LOL.

[Nacho-RT74]

Some cars did came with A/C wires throught firewall with grommet from harness coming inside the cab, and some other had those on bulhead empty cavities... normally that tranny empty cavity one and the engine harnmess empty cavity if doesn't have tach, because engine harness just left one cavity that would be used to tach or compressor.

earliers 72s and 71s had two empty cavities on tranny plug since they didn't have the seatbelt buzzer and sensors on belt buckles, just the warning light and was time delay flasher controled, so Then Mopar used those two empty cavities on tranny plug to run the A/CX green and blue wires.

On old harness I mean I can see both black wires and brown wire cut and tied... that would cause short since black drives positive to reverse light and brown negative on P and N

IF you can take a pic of back of bulkhead will be helpfull to help you on match wiring. I would check engine harness section to BE SURE wires on bulkhead and nw harness matches. we don't want you put teh key on RUN and suddenly you get water from washer nozzles, LOL...

[Hot_Rodder]

sounds like the ol' put it in drive and go backwards

[Hot_Rodder]

Ok, some more pic's.... Tell me what you think? Please remember, this is pretty much how I bought the car... And these are about the best shots I could do for right now.....

[Nacho-RT74]

REMOVE THE FUSE BOX from bulkhead assembly... loose the clips what keeps on place and take pics to the wires inserted om bulkhead cavities. there is lot of stuff is new to me cliped on fuse box. I guess is power windos relay, and stuff like that ( sorry those extra equippments doesn't exist down here )

[Hot_Rodder]

yeah, this car has afew options, heck it's only got 3 fender tags, lol...

[Hot_Rodder]

Here's one, I took a few others, but I guess the camera must have started to fog up for some reason.... I'm sure you will probably like to see these wires spread apart some, but I think I'll hold off until you say something about that, LOL. I got one other pic I need to try and retake of a connector behind the dash, I think it's the A/C control switch (the part that mounts to the dash) connector.....

[Hot_Rodder]

Here's some better pic's, plus the possible A/C connector, and some wires going to/from the connector....

[Hot_Rodder]

OK, I give up on that second pic, always something when trying to take that pic, and it isn't all that easy on just bending over backwards and crawling under this dash trying to get these, LOL. Anyway, what I was trying to point out is that, some of the wires coming off that connector are melted too.... Maybe this is a result of some moron tying those wires on the o/s of the bulhead connector together? . Some people don't need to work on cars.

[Nacho-RT74]

as I thought you have compressor clutch wire on engine harness section ( blue ) and blower wire on tranny harness ( green spliced )... do you see the wires I'm talking ?

Mostly sure you have melted the heavy black wire cavitie coming from alt stud as far I can see. At least I can see terminal rusted... I suggest replace the terminal.

Melted plug is wiper switch... lot of rain around ? LOL... you can try to find another plug ( 72/74 ) and replace, cleand and polish terminals, and check the rest the terminals up to wiper motor.

I see the rest healthy, but will look further in afew moments, I'm fixing a cell phone charger for a friend.

Does you car have hideaways ? or cruise control ?

[Nacho-RT74]

BTW I'm seeing the hazzard flasher could it be a regular one... I suggest change it for a heavy duty one

[Hot_Rodder]

I think the wire in which you're refering about it the, from the very bottom, second row up, third wire over? As for the wipers.... Well. The switch isn't even in the car.... There's a replacement, but it's new, so exactly what has happened to make this connector to do this, I don't know . But as far as rain, usualy when it's hurricane season (like it is now), the rain picks up. Heck, right now there's a thunderstorm going through. Last week it rained quite a bit. As far as the hazzard flasher, it is probably a regular piece, I'll look into a heavy duty piece. I know I will be replacing the dash harness so I know I want be doing much work to this one for that reason. But until that time, I do want to replace any wires that may cause troubles, like that alternator wire. Which, by the way, I'm not sure exatly where it even goes, I say this b/c someone has added an aftermarket alt gauge, plus the factory gaugeis still in place. As far as why whoever added that aftermarket oil gauge (hince the mechanical line coming off the motor) instead of keeping the factory oil pressure gauge hooked up, once again,  . The guy I got the car from, probably couldn't answer a single one of these questions, and I'm not even going to attempt to try and get ahold of the owner before him... It's only been atleast 10 years since that deal was done . The car does have hideaways, but doesn't have cruise control right now, and doesn't appear to have ever had it. It does have power windows though.

By the way, get that cell phone charger fixed?

[Nacho-RT74]

I think the wire in which you're refering about it the, from the very bottom, second row up, third wire over?

yes that taped one... thats compressor clutch. Green coming from same harness and entering on tranny section is the blower.


I see the harness very healthy, no reason to replace... just need get it order, cleaned or terminals replaced and job done. wipers just replace the plastic insulator, cleaning contacts first

By the way, get that cell phone charger fixed?

yes, was just cord broken inside AC plug case.

[Hot_Rodder]

I'm still planning on pulling everything eventualy to do a restoration of the car, at that time I can check the rest of the harness, hopefully all else will still be ok. Now for the next question, and for now, will be the last for wiring harnesses.... The new harness for the A/C set up, the tag says '73 - '74 B body A/C.... First, is there a difference in harnesses from the '72 model, and the listed '73 and '74 models? Also, where do all these wires go in the provided pic? Remember, there's no harness for A/C on the car now..... By the way, the light colored wire is some sort of light off shade of green... All others are just blue.

[Nacho-RT74]

the difference on 71/72 and 73/74 is just the dryer location. 71/72 is on inner fender passenger side, for a while 73/74 is at a side of condensor. You don't have any problem because you have MORE WIRE that you actually need to get the front radiator on 73/74. Wrong would it be on backward since would need to get larger the blue pair.

Jut need MAYBE to get it short the blue pair and plug on dryer gas pressure sensor. This sensor cuts the power to clutch if there is not gas on system ( or pressure fail because low gas )

green to blower

Long blue running alone, to compressor clutch

[Hot_Rodder]

Hey Nacho........ More questions for ya .
Yeah anyway, I pushed that connector out, the one that has that burned port. The connector looks badly corroded, but the wire itself, as far as I can tell by looking at the sheavthing, appears ok. Should I jusr worry about the connector, and maybe the wire is ok? Or should I start cutting all that wiring harness tape trying to trace that one wire down, and replace the whole wire? That's a lot of wires up unde rthere too . I finaly got that starter on, and am ready to fire it up, but I don't wanna let any smoke out of it, well... Except for the smoke coming from the exhuast, lol. Dang blow by. Also, on the tranny wire connector area on the inside of the car, I think it's the bottom row, second up, far right, I think that wire is blue, but doesn't start off blue, at the beginning of that wire, it looks like it's been toasted, then again, that could be some tape, I need to go out there and look again, any ideas? But it's only the first two to three inches 

[Nacho-RT74]

About the black heavy wire with burnt spot on cavity. Don't worry, just cut terminal conector and install a new one OR clean and polish the old one. I would cut, add a new terminal, crimping and also solding. Those terminals are still available new.

That wire runs from there up to black side of ammeter with an splice in the middle. That splice have two red wires, the one to fuse box batt side and the ignition switch one and three blacks, the one coming from bulhead, the one running to ammeter and one running to headlighst switch. Replace is not that easy ( beside the tedious job of retape )

Really replace terminal is just enough the weak point is JUTS there, rest normally is completelly safe. I would upgrade also the charging system and wiring, but that's another story. For a while that will be enough to at least start the car and in fact use it SAFE.

About the compressor clutch taped wire. That wire simply runs from A/C control switch up there, Untape and replace the complete wire won't be that hard since is a separated harness from rest of underdash harness. The easier way is just cut the damaged section wire splice a new one solding, taping and shrinking tube there. However being not that hard I would remove and check. we don't know the reason why become damaged since different from the black Alt wire above what is a tipical fail because regular use, this one could it be shorted on engine bay somehow and then started to melt along the line. That's not a normal damage because normal use.

To remove that harness from the rest just need:
1- remove green and blue wires from bulkhead cavities
2-Unplug harness from A/C control unit ( both pigtails ) On larger pigtail you will find a black wire coming from underdash harness that needs to be removed from A/C plug to unlink the A/C harness from the underdash harness... press the terminal tab on cavity like you do on bulkhead terminals.
3-Unplug accesories source wire. Is a bullet kind terminal. You won't need to search it... harness will let you fin it LOL.

That will be enough to work inside the car and untape harness to check that clutch blue wire from end to end. Rest of harness is inside dash running up to A/C box resistor, but blue wire doesn't run up that point Harness section runing up A/C box is just the blower speed selector resistor wires. If the rest of that blue wire is perfect ( what allmost sure it is ) probably you will be saying ALL THIS F****NG JOB TO SEE THE WIRE IS PERFECT AND JUST DAMAGED THE VISIBLE SECTION ?... I say YES and you know now rest is safe .

P.S.: I say replace is not really hard but that doesn't mean comfortably LOL. The uncomfortably job is try to remove the harnes from the wiring plastic rail above the cluster inside dash

[Nacho-RT74]

ACTUALLY i'M THINKING ABOUT ALL THIS STUFF:

loosen terminal with black traced white wire...

melted plug ( probably same wiper plug you show on another pic  )

red traced yellow wire with female bullet plug... nothing wrong about, just dunno what it is... will check diagrams

AND on second pic... that heavy red wire 

[Hot_Rodder]

Hmmm.... Where to start.... jeeze, good question, lol.
All right, loose wires.
The connector I'm pretty sure, as discussed before, is probably wiper connector, the switch isn't even in place on the dash....
The black wire with white tracer, 
The bullet plug, ummmm  either...
The second pic, that big red wire, I think is connectoed, just doesn't look like it in that pic, I'll check it again when I go outside.

As for the black wire on engine harness, I'll go ahead and replace that connector terminal.



P.S.: I say replace is not really hard but that doesn't mean comfortably LOL. The uncomfortably job is try to remove the harnes from the wiring plastic rail above the cluster inside dash


Ummmm, I got some fairly good size hands, I hope it's not gonna be that much of a pain, otherwise, I'll loosen up that dash cluster assembly, and hopefully do it the easy way.... Plus, I'm a good size guy anyway, trying to get under that dash in the first place isn't all that fun either . . But one way or another, it'll get done.

Here's another question for ya about "missing wires" which I can't comprehend why in the world I missed this earlier when I was comparing them . It's the bottom right hand side wire, a blue/green kind of color

Also a pic of the current exhuast setup, and the new alternator installed.

Also, check the previous pictures, and try and take notice to the wires behind the radio, see any of the sheavthing missing on any of the wire, like someon might have cut some of it off to try and tap into it or something? I don't know what has happened to this car, but dang. Also, got to thinking, the burned wire, might that have something to do with the tying of the wires together?

[Nacho-RT74]

The wires on radio area ( green violet and black ) are speakers wires. Green positive left channel ( dash speaker ), violet, positive right channel ( rear speaker ), black, common negative.

Dunno wat else to see on that area beside that.

The blue/greenish cut wire on old engine harness plug must be in fact the COMPRESSOR CLUTCH wire that is tapped on back of bulkhhead. You wiill need install the blue wire from your new A/C harness on that engine harness plug, removing from the male plug came with your new A/C harness.

[Hot_Rodder]

 . And around we go about these harnesses. Ok, so what wire is what. I got two missing wires that I know of, one on the tranny harness connector, and the one on the engine harness connector. So what's what? This si starting to become quite the pain in the  . On the other hand, it's worth it, so...

[Nacho-RT74]

Ok... I don't get your doubt hahaha... lets start again

You have 2 extra wires on tranny harness and engine harness right ? both cut. Those wires were both the old A/C harness

Also you have a new harness what it is the A/C harness... right ? WITH 2 WIRES.

Well, all you have to do is remove the male plug isolator from your new A/C harness and get two spade male terminals One of them will be inserted on engine harness plug. The other one will be inserted on tranny harness. As I can see, the blue one from A/C harness ( compressor clutch ) will be added to engine harnes and green wire from A/C harness ( blower ) will be added on tranny plug.

Is more clear now ?

[Hot_Rodder]

Leme try this, this way Man this wiring is being a pain

On the old Tranny harness there's 4 wires, all cut, new one, there's only three wires, therefore, missing one. On the int that wire, I think, is the one that's burned some

On the old engine harness there's however many wires on it, but on the new one, it's short one wire, and it's the blue/green color.

So you said:
You have 2 extra wires on tranny harness and engine harness right ? both cut. Those wires were both the old A/C harness

If by saying this you mean the above, then yes .

HMMMM, I must not be fully awake yet, my heads a bit spinning right now, LOL. :
As I can see, the blue one from A/C harness ( compressor clutch ) will be added to engine harnes and green wire from A/C harness ( blower ) will be added on tranny plug.

Can, if you don't mind, pulling up the pic of the new tranny pic, and pointing out which wires you're talking about . I have the harness next to me right now, and I'm looking at it scratching my head, lol.

[Nacho-RT74]

let's try with a graphic explanation LOL.

Cut blue/greenish wire on old engine harness is Compressor clutch wire.

Cut Green wire on old tranny harness is blower wire.

You will remove the new A/C harness male insulator plug from harness, and those male spade terminals will be inserted on your new engine and tranny harnesses empty cavities  to get again same original setup.

Those empty cavities on new harnesses are already filled on bulkhead plug with same wires to compressor and blower. So you will complete the route to feed the blower and compressor.

Better now ?

making this you'll have engine and tranny harnesses linked by the A/C harness... That's the way it was made

[Hot_Rodder]

 . Got it now, too bad it took a dang picture for me to get it though . So, as you said, just install this harness in those locations, and hopefully everything will work fine.... Only time will tell..... By the way, still have not had the chance to go and get a replacement female spade connector for the inside of the car for that black wire, and still need to work on that burned wire..... But right now, I'm working nights, so....

Thanks Nacho for all the help so far.

[Nacho-RT74]

Maybe I got it hard to explain ? sorry but my english sometimes could it be some confusing 

Chargerspecialties, paddock, year one etc... have those terminals. Paddock has then sold as 10 pieces kit.

http://www.paddockparts.com/Paddock/product_family.asp?family%5Fid=6654&gift=False&0=dept%2Easp%2Cdept%5Fid%3D4%26menu%5Fid%3D%26Tree%3D%2CDodge%2FPlymouth&1=dept%2Easp%2Cdept%5Fid%3D70%26menu%5Fid%3D%26Tree%3D0%2CDodge%2FPlymouth%20Electrical&mscssid=9EF203767EA7411AB81E6424EC6A1071
http://www.paddockparts.com/Paddock/product_family.asp?family%5Fid=6653&gift=False&0=dept%2Easp%2Cdept%5Fid%3D4%26menu%5Fid%3D%26Tree%3D%2CDodge%2FPlymouth&1=dept%2Easp%2Cdept%5Fid%3D70%26menu%5Fid%3D%26Tree%3D0%2CDodge%2FPlymouth%20Electrical&mscssid=9EF203767EA7411AB81E6424EC6A1071

http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/headline.asp?hid=112AA4833

http://www.chargerspecialties.com/catalog.htm ( check wiring repair section )

[Hot_Rodder]

Hey Nacho, you forgot one connector, and I just realized it b/c I started wondering what in the world it is..... On the pic that has the pic's of the bulkhead connector in it, the first wire coming off the harness is two black wires, going into one spade terminal connector, I think this is a female connector. It's a little difficult too see, but it's there....

[Nacho-RT74]

you mean the labeled on 5 now ( file edited )?... sorry I forgott yes. Is just a plug to test the brake light at cluster to be sure wiring and bulb are good up to cluster on brakes warning system, goes to nowhere. You ground that plug just to be sure you have a nice brake warning system and you'll have the alarm in case of brakes emergency on road without need to unplug and ground the prop valve plug

Is just spliced from prop valve plug wire

[Hot_Rodder]

  Another one of those wires that just "hangs around"

[Nacho-RT74]

well really is the ONLY one that once you get everything plugged on engine bay will be hanging around.

The problem right now is: for a while you don't have the stock oil sender, ECU module, elect dist and winshield washer, all those wires will be hanging around LOL.

[Hot_Rodder]

yeah, it's that way... for now But eventualy, it'll have the M.P. elec. dist, chrome box, ect ect ect...

Hey Nacho, got another question for ya, I found, under the dash, another somewhat melted connector.... I need to get a pic of it for ya, but I have no clue to where this one goes....... I think it's got three wires in/out, most, if not all, orange colored if I remember right....

Sorry about the first pic quality, but I'm sure get the point? My memory is obviously not for.... but it was somewhat close, 4 wires instead of 3, and there are orange wires, but there's also black... Close, but still.....

[Nacho-RT74]

For the area I can see you took the pic and colors, definitivelly should it be A/C control lightning plug.

What I definitivelly I don't get is how the hell that plug is able to get melt . I'm toward from was an external melt, not internal.

They are 2 black ( negative ) and two orange ( positive from cluster dimmer ) because 71/72 A/C control panels use two bulbs, one at each side, and both socket pigtails are spliced directly from T plug. You don't have to worry because you can reuse the T plug you won't use from the A/C harness LOL... Just clean and polish if posible the terminals and insert on the plug.

On second pic the cut wires from speakers are more visible. Good radio option... stereo and cassette pigtail . Just sold, tape &/or and shrinking tube on each one

[Hot_Rodder]

A little bit later on today after I get some sleep, worked last night, I'll get up under there, and see what I can see, plus fix those two previous mentioned wires for the bulkhead connector..... Then maybe, hopefully, fire it up.

[Hot_Rodder]

All right now, lets see here..... Tried to connect the harness connectors to the bulkhead connector, and I can't get it on. I don't know why it's not wanting to go on, but it doesn't want to. Any ideas? Right now I'm trying to get the tranny harness on first, then go to the wiper, which I have not replaced, followed by the forard harness, then the engine harness (which is new)... I have not tried the engine harness yet, but hopefully it will go on without a problem.... Both the wiper and forward harnesses are original for now.

[Nacho-RT74]

Probably terminals are not aligned with cavities. Is not weird being the new ones without the rubber filler on plug cavity what makes they move some freely

[Hot_Rodder]

I'll try moving some of the wires around little later on once I've gotten my sleep for today. If that doesn't work, then I'm concidering switching at the plugs. Nothing wrong with the old one, other than the look of age, only the wires were messed up. I guess we'll see what we see..

[Nacho-RT74]

is not the plugs... that rubber filler is attached on to wire and terminal. nothing to do with plug. Don't worry... will finally be plugged just need more dedication.

[Hot_Rodder]

well, I took a flat head screwdriver, and "dedicated it" on it place. I had to push she male spade connector toward the center because it was too much toward the outside, and it went on. The others went on well. I had just a little bit of a problem with the engine harness connector, but nothing much, with my somewhat big hands, had a little bit of a time getting to the connector well enough to get some leverage on it to push it on, so I took a pry bar, and gently pushed it on, no damage done. On the insdie, got all that hooked back up, left the fuse block hanging for now. Hooked the battery up, with a fire extinguisher near if needed. No smoke, no fire,  . And that goes for both inside and outside of the car. Turned the key to the on/run position, again, no smoke anywhere . Turned the key to start, and the starter engaged,  . But quickly found out the battery has dropped some bit in power .  . Is there some kind of an unseen force that just doesn't want this car to run? Or is it "The curse of the old cars" thing? Either way, when I'm heading home tomorrow, I'll stop and pick the battery charger up... again...

[Nacho-RT74]

Even with some drain on power engine should start on. The power drain is another diff story. Unless you have the drain for a while is cranking, what is NORMAL... In fact is normal get discharge reading with just open the door and put the key on Run position since you are having consumption on cluster, on engine bay ( ballast ), dome light, key in buzzer, etc...

Once you have everything hooked up on engine, check on start position for 12 Volts on bue wirea at ballast and around 9 volts on + lead of coil.
You must get 12 volts on Start position at + lead of coil.

That's enought to start the engine if dist is good, with good timing etc... gas on carb.

If you want to be sure about no drain on engine bay, for example on charging system ( reg an alt brush ), just unhook reg and alt fields untill get started the engine.

BTW check for a thread I started to get a good charging system, with upgraded alt and wiring.

[Hot_Rodder]

I saw you talking about how to wire up a good charging system. The battery is pretty much dead, when I first got in, and turned the key, the motor turned over, and quickly slowed down, and I mean slowed down, so I brought the battery charger over, and once I get it hooked up, I'll see what it reads first, the needle will only go up to a "15" reading, and that's at a max charge, so, we'll see what we see when I plug it up.