Tach for my 3rd gen..?

[T16]

Anyone have any tips for a tachometer for my 3rd gen..? Dont want to mess up the interior, so i´m thinking of placing it under the dash.. in the center...
Another option would be replacing the clock with an stock tach.. are these hard to find..? Expensive..?

Would be great with some info or some links 

[Ghoste]

I like the factory tachs in those cars and they aren't impossible to find, but they aren't cheap either.   

[T16]

but they aren't cheap either.   

How much on eBay..?

[Ghoste]

Don't know on e-bay.  I remember looking at some last week at the Nats because a friend of mine is looking for one for his car.  I looked at some that Greg Garner was selling from Real Time Engineering and my memory wants to say they were around 2 or 3 hundred bucks but I think he has a website and it might be best to check there than to trust my crappy recall abilities.

[chgr500]

I like the factory tachs in those cars and they aren't impossible to find, but they aren't cheap either.   

I wondered about these tach's offered through year one....should be a 7k tach    seem reasonably priced..

$229 71-4 b body... $238 with the wiring harness

[Charger1973]

Yeah for some reason the "repro" 3rd gen tachs go to 8k but the originals were 7k.   

[Ghoste]

It's okay to take them higher now, the original Chrysler warranty's are all used up. 

[chgr500]

Yeah for some reason the "repro" 3rd gen tachs go to 8k but the originals were 7k.   

That's the same tach I currently have...quit working a few years back....I have purchased the RTE solid state replacement parts,  but have yet to install it......the original tachs use a paper circuit board...Hmmm.... paper and 25+ years=no workie tach 

[no318]

I thought that the 7000 vs 8000 RPM was due to year.  E-body used the same tach, right?  That is what I had always heard, and I THINK the earlier ones (ie 1971) were 8000 and later ones (ie 1974) where 7000.  Not sure on that.

[Nacho-RT74]

alll 7K... 8K are repro.

price... more less the same but originals without warranty to works

[BMOTOXSTAR]

Wish I had a Tach for my 73' Rally.

[Ghoste]

It's as easy as a couple hundred bucks and an afternoon of your life. 

[Nacho-RT74]

I thought that the 7000 vs 8000 RPM was due to year.  E-body used the same tach, right?  That is what I had always heard, and I THINK the earlier ones (ie 1971) were 8000 and later ones (ie 1974) where 7000.  Not sure on that.

nothing from E body cluster is interchangeable.

[Ghoste]

Surprisingly, even the bulbs for lighting the two style clusters are different.

[71charger_fan]

http://www.chargerspecialties.com/catalog.htm

http://www.chargerspecialties.com/71-74tac2.jpg

[Nacho-RT74]

Surprisingly, even the bulbs for lighting the two style clusters are different.

of course... cluster ligthning on E bodies is an external panel below dash pad

[The70RT]

http://www.chargerspecialties.com/catalog.htm

http://www.chargerspecialties.com/71-74tac2.jpg

I hope their tachs are better quality than their sheetmetal.

[T16]

http://www.chargerspecialties.com/catalog.htm

http://www.chargerspecialties.com/71-74tac2.jpg

Hmm.. ship worldwide..

But dont know if I want to tear my dash down again.. 

[chgr500]

http://www.chargerspecialties.com/catalog.htm

http://www.chargerspecialties.com/71-74tac2.jpg

Hmm.. ship worldwide..

But dont know if I want to tear my dash down again.. 

Always easier the next time around...

[Nacho-RT74]

http://www.chargerspecialties.com/catalog.htm

http://www.chargerspecialties.com/71-74tac2.jpg

Hmm.. ship worldwide..

But dont know if I want to tear my dash down again.. 

really is not necesary. Remove radio and cluster screws to get room. You can install from below the dash frame. I have removed the clock on that way.

[T16]

http://www.chargerspecialties.com/catalog.htm

http://www.chargerspecialties.com/71-74tac2.jpg

Hmm.. ship worldwide..

But dont know if I want to tear my dash down again.. 

really is not necesary. Remove radio and cluster screws to get room. You can install from below the dash frame. I have removed the clock on that way.

Ok.. may work.

[Nacho-RT74]

it is some tricky, but is posible to do it

[Charger1973]

I always pull the dash for stuff like that.  I just pulled mine and installed the 150/tach gauge cluster yesterday, and reinstalled the dash today.  Its a peice of cake after you do it a few times. 

[BMOTOXSTAR]

Dear 3rd Gen Master,
    Please teach me your ways of removing dash pad & cluster. I am very confused, other threads confuse me about this removal.
I am a Green Grasshopper that needs your wisdom.

[Nacho-RT74]

complete dash frame:

-Remove headliner moldings at sides, inside windshield molding and then pillar post panels.

-Remove door sill moldings and kick panels.

-let fall steering column from dash frame. Unplug harnesses undercolumn.

-unplug every wire linked with body harnesses and switch: brake pedal switch, hazzard flasher, both sides door jam switches, rear harness at driver side kick, rear speaker harnes if equiped, rear deff harness if equipped, emergency brake switch, headlights dimmer, dome light plug, speedo wire, A/C harness at box, heater wire, vacuum lines, radio antena wire, seatbelts sensors wires, engine bay harnesses from bulhead,remove bulkhead from firewall ( 2 7/16" nuts on engine bay ).

-remove speaker grill: 3 phillips screws at fron, 4 1/4" hex screws at windshield vents.

-remove 4 3/8" bolts at windshield area.

-removing kick panels you will find 2 ( one at each side ) 7/16" or 1/2" bolts, dunno remember... loose NOT REMOVE those bolts.

-Then dash frame will be ready to remove, just need slight flipt it up and let it fall to you.

[Charger1973]

complete dash frame:

-Remove headliner moldings at sides, inside windshield molding and then pillar post panels.

-Remove door sill moldings and kick panels.

-let fall steering column from dash frame. Unplug harnesses undercolumn.

-unplug every wire linked with body harnesses and switch: brake pedal switch, hazzard flasher, both sides door jam switches, rear harness at driver side kick, rear speaker harnes if equiped, rear deff harness if equipped, emergency brake switch, headlights dimmer, dome light plug, speedo wire, A/C harness at box, heater wire, vacuum lines, radio antena wire, seatbelts sensors wires, engine bay harnesses from bulhead,remove bulkhead from firewall ( 2 7/16" nuts on engine bay ).

-remove speaker grill: 3 phillips screws at fron, 4 1/4" hex screws at windshield vents.

-remove 4 3/8" bolts at windshield area.

-removing kick panels you will find 2 ( one at each side ) 7/16" or 1/2" screws, dunno remember... loose NOT REMOVE those screws.

-Then dash frame will be ready to remove, just need slight flipt it up and let it fall to you.

    Im not as good at writing things up but Nacho is right on.  Its tricky the first time and you want 2 guys when its time to handle the dash assembly, but other than that theres not much more to tell.  Heres a few more pics to look at I took one of the times I had mine out. 

[Charger1973]

a few more...  maybe next time (with any luck it wont be for a while though), i'll try and get some step by step pics

[T16]

A..cool.. so you remove the whole dash with wires and everything. 

[Nacho-RT74]

that's the BEST WAY... more work because you have to dissaseble almost everything but more confortably and precision job.

anyway as I stated you don't REALLY need that to just put a tach. loosing cluster and removing radio is a tricky job ( specially on one of the clock/tach crews on back ) but works. I have replace my clock on around 30-45 minutes.

I have used small rachet with phillips plug end to get the harder screw from back of cluster.

[BMOTOXSTAR]

Wow,
Thanks for the help. I sure hope I can do it. 
I can do it.
That will be a winter project. 

[Charger1973]

You can.  Its not as hard as it seems and once you are familiar with all the wiring it will make it much easier to work on your car in the future.  Take lots of reference pics and you will know what you are looking at the next time you crawl up under there with a flashlight.

[BMOTOXSTAR]

Thanks Matt.