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gremlin update to the update

Started by 70charginglizard, August 04, 2007, 11:42:45 AM

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Nacho-RT74

welll an emeregency like THIS ONE but riding, at night at lonely and dangerous road hehehe.

In fact you can try it right now and will work in case you moved everything on engine ( dist ) and get it tuned again to get everything fine when install the new ignition switch.

You can also feed directly from batt the ballast on "blue side". Makes the same but engine won't shut off when shutt off the ignition switch
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

70charginglizard

Quote from: 71ChallengeHer on August 05, 2007, 05:49:21 PM
Quote from: 70charginglizard on August 04, 2007, 02:35:06 PM

Starter is engaging and the motor just about lights up and when I let off the ignition key it just dies.
  It was right here. :icon_smile_big:   Ok, Kellly. What's my reward. :popcrn: :popcrn:

Cards on the way sweeite.  ;)
70charginglizard

70charginglizard

Gonna have to revolk my congrads to Jackie because it turns out that it's not the ignition switch or lock cylinder. I got the new swtich and the new lock cylinder in today and after installing it I'm having the same problem.

I can actually get the car to start and keep running by holding it in the run position but as soon as I let the key go the car shuts off.

What could possibly be causing this???? I'm going crazy trying to figure this one out.  :shruggy:

I looked real good at the lock lever spring assy and it seems fine.

HELP! :brickwall:

Perhaps the Starter clutch slipping? or broken teeth?
70charginglizard

Charger-Bodie

bad wire from the ballist resister? i had one of the wires come off the risister once and it did the same thing you havfe described, i had to hold the key in just the right position in order for the engine to stay running as well as the starter disengaged.i had to drive 3 blocks like that.
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

70charginglizard

Quote from: 1hot68 on August 11, 2007, 04:30:34 PM
bad wire from the ballist resister? i had one of the wires come off the risister once and it did the same thing you havfe described, i had to hold the key in just the right position in order for the engine to stay running as well as the starter disengaged.i had to drive 3 blocks like that.

It's a brand new engine wire harness

and I checked the connections to the ballist resistor several times as well as the wiring. Even swapped out the extra ballist resistors I had there a couple of times. Still the same problem.
70charginglizard

70charginglizard

Well I took the starter off and brought it in to have it checked and it's just fine. No problems.
So I bought a new starter relay on the off chance that maybe something going on with it and with the new one still. Same problem.

Now there is something very curious here however.
I've noticed that when I hold the key in the run position to keep the car going that all the gages go dead. That can't be normal can it? More clues to the puzzle???

I'm now dry of any other ideas.  :-\
70charginglizard

Charger-Bodie

Quote from: 70charginglizard on August 11, 2007, 08:37:02 PM
Well I took the starter off and brought it in to have it checked and it's just fine. No problems.
So I bought a new starter relay on the off chance that maybe something going on with it and with the new one still. Same problem.

Now there is something very curious here however.
I've noticed that when I hold the key in the run position to keep the car going that all the gages go dead. That can't be normal can it? More clues to the puzzle???

I'm now dry of any other ideas.  :-\
it is normal for everything else to go away when in the start pos.  its something in the wiring for the ignition system or a component of the ignition ! try running a jumper wire from the battery positive to the ballast res. and hit the key
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

70charginglizard

Quote
it is normal for everything else to go away when in the start pos.  its something in the wiring for the ignition system or a component of the ignition ! try running a jumper wire from the battery positive to the ballast res. and hit the key
Quote

What gage wire? and which connection side of the ballast res? does it matter?
70charginglizard

Nacho-RT74

that was I said before

from batt to ballast on blue wire side...

10-12 gauge is enough. In fact 14 will be too

Note... don't unplug the blue wire, just try to insert the wire on plug itself on back side, rememeber blue wire will keep feeding ECU module.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

70charginglizard

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on August 11, 2007, 10:55:36 PM
that was I said before

from batt to ballast on blue wire side...

10-12 gauge is enough. In fact 14 will be too

Note... don't unplug the blue wire, just try to insert the wire on plug itself on back side, rememeber blue wire will keep feeding ECU module.

Nice little cheating by pass Nacho. Thanks
That works. The car starts, runs and drives but I have to pull the by pass wire off to get it to shut off. interesting.

I guess you had me do that to confirm it's something in the wiring. Now what?

Pretty cool trick though. I've never done that before. At least I can make it to the shows but I'm gonna look pretty gooffy pulling a by pass wire when I get there. lol
70charginglizard

Nacho-RT74

OK the problem you have is blue wire is not being feeded. So now we need to surround where is the problem.

Blue wire runs directly from ignition switch up to bulkhead and then engine harness so you can get fail on plugs just down the column and on bulkhead.

Also does have a splice ( at least on 3rd gen ) between column and bulkhead to feed another sources like brake light on cluster, seatbelt buzzer and light, power window relay etc... This splice runs up to fuse box before feed the other sources, but engine is without fuse.

So we can check if you have BRAKES LIGHT on RUN position or not. If you don't then problem is before bulkhead ( unless fuse was blowed ). If you do have brakes light on cluster then problem is at bulkhead.Probably female terminal out of cavity on a bad plugging job. Will make a diagram.

P.S.: unless new switch is also damaged  ::). you could try also jump between black and blue wire down the column ( feed engine with accesories source ) to discard again switch
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

here is diagram
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

70charginglizard

Thanks Nacho,
What would I do without your guys help around here.
Really appreciate the feedback.
I'll start chasing into the wiring at the bulkhead and ignition plug connector today sometime and check that tail light thing too.
Thanks for showing me the by pass thing. I always wondered how to do that. I may just leave the line on there with a disconnection joint anyway in case this ever happens again. Be nice if I could run a switch into the car from that somehow...got anymore diagrams...lol

on and BTY- I do have dash Brake light shining bright red on run position.
70charginglizard

Nacho-RT74

I can make any diagrams you want, I make them at the moment. :P

IF 2nd gen is wired the same that 3rd gen, what mostly sure it is, then if you have the cluster brake light at RUN position problem should it be at bulkhead, unless wire is broken between splice and bulkhead, or inside the engine harness.

whats your problem on tail lights?
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

71ChallengeHer

Do I have to send the card back. :pity:

70charginglizard

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on August 12, 2007, 11:09:36 AM
I can make any diagrams you want, I make them at the moment. :P

IF 2nd gen is wired the same that 3rd gen, what mostly sure it is, then if you have the cluster brake light at RUN position problem should it be at bulkhead, unless wire is broken between splice and bulkhead, or inside the engine harness.

whats your problem on tail lights?

Nacho is the man of the hour.....Sucess buddy It was the bulkhead electrical connection. Must have built up some corrosion or something. I jusrked it around a bit and presto.

PROBLEM SOLVED.  :cheers:

I'm gonna definately get in there real good next weekend and clean off the contact on the dash side of that real good. For now. It's all back to working properly.

Thanks a million Nacho. yous da man! :2thumbs:

70charginglizard

70charginglizard

Quote from: 71ChallengeHer on August 12, 2007, 01:06:50 PM
Do I have to send the card back. :pity:

You were pretty damn close to the problem Jackie so you can consider that one a very close 2nd.  :D
70charginglizard

Charger-Bodie

Quote from: 70charginglizard on August 12, 2007, 07:35:04 PM
Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on August 12, 2007, 11:09:36 AM
I can make any diagrams you want, I make them at the moment. :P

IF 2nd gen is wired the same that 3rd gen, what mostly sure it is, then if you have the cluster brake light at RUN position problem should it be at bulkhead, unless wire is broken between splice and bulkhead, or inside the engine harness.

whats your problem on tail lights?

Nacho is the man of the hour.....Sucess buddy It was the bulkhead electrical connection. Must have built up some corrosion or something. I jusrked it around a bit and presto.

PROBLEM SOLVED.  :cheers:

I'm gonna definately get in there real good next weekend and clean off the contact on the dash side of that real good. For now. It's all back to working properly.

Thanks a million Nacho. yous da man! :2thumbs:



yeah Nacho YOU single handedly solved it :eek2: i sure am glad i said to run a jumper wire and basiclly get zero cred.  ill just avoid youre posts from now on!

P.S. no offense toward you Nacho!
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

70charginglizard

Sorry about that 1hot68. I though that 1st post about the jumper was from Nacho but now I see it was actually you.  :2thumbs:

Yos da man too. It was actually the combination of all of you who helped me pull this to it's wonderful conclusion. Success

Thanks Guys. and Jackie
70charginglizard

Charger-Bodie

Quote from: 1hot68 on August 11, 2007, 10:06:55 PM
Quote from: 70charginglizard on August 11, 2007, 08:37:02 PM
Well I took the starter off and brought it in to have it checked and it's just fine. No problems.
So I bought a new starter relay on the off chance that maybe something going on with it and with the new one still. Same problem.

Now there is something very curious here however.
I've noticed that when I hold the key in the run position to keep the car going that all the gages go dead. That can't be normal can it? More clues to the puzzle???

I'm now dry of any other ideas.  :-\
it is normal for everything else to go away when in the start pos.  its something in the wiring for the ignition system or a component of the ignition ! try running a jumper wire from the battery positive to the ballast res. and hit the key

this is the post that said to try a jumper wire .......try giving ctredit where credit is due , people are alot more apt to help then!!

P.S. im glad you got youre car running again !!
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

Nacho-RT74

great you got it !!!!

PS.: I noticed that is tipical that on hard moments we are blocked and don't pay 100% attention to all instructions specially generic ones, so maybe that was the missunderstood ?
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

70charginglizard

Quote from: 1hot68 on August 12, 2007, 09:13:16 PM
Quote from: 1hot68 on August 11, 2007, 10:06:55 PM
Quote from: 70charginglizard on August 11, 2007, 08:37:02 PM
Well I took the starter off and brought it in to have it checked and it's just fine. No problems.
So I bought a new starter relay on the off chance that maybe something going on with it and with the new one still. Same problem.

Now there is something very curious here however.
I've noticed that when I hold the key in the run position to keep the car going that all the gages go dead. That can't be normal can it? More clues to the puzzle???

I'm now dry of any other ideas.  :-\

it is normal for everything else to go away when in the start pos.  its something in the wiring for the ignition system or a component of the ignition ! try running a jumper wire from the battery positive to the ballast res. and hit the key

this is the post that said to try a jumper wire .......try giving ctredit where credit is due , people are alot more apt to help then!!

P.S. im glad you got youre car running again !!

again,
I sincerely appologise for not picking up on that. There was just to many things going thru my head trying to get this thing working. I'm sure you know how it is when one of the most favorite things in your life is sick and in need of attention. Everything else in the brain goes blank. In this case the nogin wasn't recognizing the actual person who started the heads up.

Thanks again 1hot68.
70charginglizard

Charger-Bodie

Quote from: 70charginglizard on August 12, 2007, 10:05:19 PM
Quote from: 1hot68 on August 12, 2007, 09:13:16 PM
Quote from: 1hot68 on August 11, 2007, 10:06:55 PM
Quote from: 70charginglizard on August 11, 2007, 08:37:02 PM
Well I took the starter off and brought it in to have it checked and it's just fine. No problems.
So I bought a new starter relay on the off chance that maybe something going on with it and with the new one still. Same problem.

Now there is something very curious here however.
I've noticed that when I hold the key in the run position to keep the car going that all the gages go dead. That can't be normal can it? More clues to the puzzle???

I'm now dry of any other ideas.  :-\

it is normal for everything else to go away when in the start pos.  its something in the wiring for the ignition system or a component of the ignition ! try running a jumper wire from the battery positive to the ballast res. and hit the key

this is the post that said to try a jumper wire .......try giving ctredit where credit is due , people are alot more apt to help then!!

P.S. im glad you got youre car running again !!

again,
I sincerely appologise for not picking up on that. There was just to many things going thru my head trying to get this thing working. I'm sure you know how it is when one of the most favorite things in your life is sick and in need of attention. Everything else in the brain goes blank. In this case the nogin wasn't recognizing the actual person who started the heads up.

Thanks again 1hot68.
ah forget it , i just like to help if i can , it makes me feel good.
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

bull


Nacho-RT74

Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html