Popped the fusible link, need help figuring out why

[moparguy01]

Ok here's the scoop. 69 roadrunner 383 4 speed car. Just finished the restoration, (customer car) the wiring is new except the taillight wiring and the dome light wiring. The alternator was disconnected at the time this happened as well.

fired up the car, ran it for about a minute or so, guages went haywire, then poof there went the fusible link. Now the starter relay was HOT. I mean hot enough I don't have a fingerprint left on my pointer finger of my right hand. anyways, I was talking with RD and he's thinking a possibly ignition switch, or maybe just something in the dash harness.

Now I'll say this, this new wiring harness we have had nothing but problems with it. what should be a plug and play deal is more of a plug and figure out why none of the stupid accessories work. (no wiring is not my forte)

I was thinking the starter relay might be a suspect as well.
anybody else have any ideas?

[Nacho-RT74]

pay the air bill and will drink a couple of beers to fix it


LOL.

starter relay could being hot becaus ethe same fuse link. Fuse link doesn't blows inmediatly, does start getting hot first.

alternator disconected but SURE TERMINAL WAS ISOLATED FROM CHASIS ?

what kind of alt ? was new ?

[moparguy01]

yes it was isolated. the alternator is a replacement single groove

[pandamarie]

What kind  or brand of wiring harness did you use?? if your coil is hot your ballast resistor isnt the right ohm rating, coils do get hot but shouldnt get that hot. To burn up the fuseable link takes some doing. if you have a fuse holder replace the fuseable link with a 20 amp fuse turn your key on but dont start the car and see if it blows, if not turn the key off and check the fuses that should not be hot till the key is on to see if they are powered, if they are fix that first. then look for things that are drawing to many amps, and amp meter  that you can get at sears works good, the kind you place over the wire you want to check. wiring is not easy to fix over the line espescially if your not using factory wiring or at least followed the factory diagrams. Hope this gets you started in the right direction.

[is_it_EVER_done?]

Now I'll say this, this new wiring harness we have had nothing but problems with it. what should be a plug and play deal is more of a plug and figure out why none of the stupid accessories work. (no wiring is not my forte)

Not fair to blame the new wiring harness! You would never have had to replace it if all the connections, circuts, etc. were in good shape to start with.

Keep in mind that every connection on these old cars was either a slip contact, or crimp! These work flawlessly when in good shape but create substantial resistance as wear and oxidation/looseness sets in.

Check the bulkhead connectors, dash/ignition switch connections, relays connections for the starter and charging system, and so many other areas that it is impossible to list them. Looseness and corrosion are the enemies. Personally, I solder EVERY connection in the system, except for the male/female joints, which get soldered at the wire terminus, and tightend (re-crimped) at the slip area.

It's my experience that even when someone knows that an engine/transmission is so worn out from millage that they rebuild them, yet they expect the wiring to be in good shape. This is usually not the case, and usually needs as much attention as the rest of the car.