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electronic ignition and throttle body

Started by 70R/T, July 20, 2007, 09:50:30 AM

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70R/T

I recently brought home my dads old charger, 70' R/t with a 440 in AMAZING condition.  kept in a barn for 20 years, he drove it out there before a big storm so it wouldn't get hail damage and such, but never went to get it... anyways its home now and instead of putting a new carb on it i was going to do a throttle body and electronic ignition, and was wondering if anyone has this setup and how they did it, like what parts and such, and how it turned out.  Any information would be nice.  Thanks

70R/T

Or* might be considering fuel injection if its not to hard, so if someone has any input in that direction id love it.

aifilaw

definitely suggest fuel injection... more expensive, but the gains would be worth it.

It's been covered a lot as far as options and what is required, there are even known shops that will do the work for you. Do a search on Fuel injection, EFI, or SFI on the forums and it will pop up those threads.

'72 B5 Metallic Blue Hardtop
426" Wedge - Hydraulic Roller Stealth heads

is_it_EVER_done?

Quote from: 70R/T on July 20, 2007, 09:50:30 AM
I recently brought home my dads old charger, 70' R/t with a 440 in AMAZING condition.  kept in a barn for 20 years, he drove it out there before a big storm so it wouldn't get hail damage and such, but never went to get it... anyways its home now and instead of putting a new carb on it i was going to do a throttle body and electronic ignition, and was wondering if anyone has this setup and how they did it, like what parts and such, and how it turned out.  Any information would be nice.  Thanks

Quote from: 70R/T on July 20, 2007, 09:51:30 AM
Or* might be considering fuel injection if its not to hard, so if someone has any input in that direction id love it.

First, a throttle body IS fuel injection and requires all the necessary parts (which is quite extensive and expensive). It is a little less complicated than direct port (batch/bank or sequential, injection but in some ways is even more complicated since it is the transition from analog to digital, so it relies on not just sensors, but engine vacuum and other analog inputs to get tuned correctly.

Have you made the car run yet? Since it comes from an area that is prone to hail damage and has sat for twenty years, I'm guessing that the engine is going to need rebuilt due to rust from condensation. Even if it has escaped the decades of weathering, it should be made to run before you start changing over major systems as no upgrade will alter fundamental age/weather problems, and will only serve to confuse you into an impossible to solve quagmire of problems.

The first step should be to buy a F.S.M. = "factory service manual". After that the carb, ignition, etc should be rebuilt as is necessary following the FSM instruction, pre-lube the engine if you haven't allready started (or tried to start) it, other wise don't bother with the pre-lube as the damage is already done.

Once you have it running, then you can consider what your next steps are going to be, and where you will need to spend money. I seriously doubt that fuel injection will be high on your list.

firefighter3931

 :iagree: Get the engine running and do an assessment before worrying about fuel injection.  :Twocents:



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

Rolling_Thunder

agreed...    when i built my stroker i put it on a stand with a carb - now i am in the process of wiring up the fuel injection....      if you really wanna go EFI you have to decide exactly what you want to do...   TBI, MPFI, MAF, SD...      it is alot of stuff to digest but it can be done...    i managed...     and if i did it anyone can.
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

70R/T

ok.. the fuel injection is a little premature, but im going to put electronic ignition on it within a few weeks, and was wondering what everyone was using.  2 weeks ago i put a pertronix ignitor 2 on  mustang i have, but the for the 440, they only make the ignitor 1,  SO i guess what im asking is what would ya'll recomend along the lines of electronic ignition conversion kits. 

Chryco Psycho

use the Mopar one , it is the best value & works well , if you get it from Mancinis they will up grade to the chrome box for a few extra $$

Rolling_Thunder

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on August 26, 2007, 10:42:14 PM
use the Mopar one , it is the best value & works well , if you get it from Mancinis they will up grade to the chrome box for a few extra $$


:2thumbs:   you should only really need the orange box though
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

Steve P.

First off, Welcome 70R/T. You have landed on a great site with MANY great people and techs.  I can't think of a better place to hang out that doesn't have scantly dressed women involved..  :D

Second, I agree with all of the above. I would only add a few things.

1) Please register your 70 R/T on the registration board.

2) Don't get into too big of a hurry to fire up the beast. She's been sleeping a long time and probably grown allot of furry things inside her. Rust is a bastard to all that is metal. After 20 years you can bet the fuel tank and lines are full of it. 
I would pull the fuel line before the pump AND before the carb and keep any of that nasty crap out.
Pull the spark plugs and blow can after can of penetrating oil into the cylinders to try to help loosen up what could be stuck rings and rusty cylinders. [ESPECIALLY if this is the numbers matching block]. Matter of fact, if it is I think I would pull the motor and have a pro shop go through it. A true 70 R/T with matching numbers is worth some bucks...

3) Post up some pics. of this time capsule. We would love to see it...

:cheers:

Steve P.
Holiday, Florida