What kind of $ to get into a decent 68-70?

[h76]

Was curious as to what people out there think it takes($)to get into a decent 68-70 charger driver these days.I understand it depends on engine,trans,R/T,etc.,but in general what should a mechanically sound,driveable,25-50 footer go for?Interested in people's opinions.
Thanks!

[41husk]

I would say 20 k for a good ready to go driver

[bull]

I'm not a real believer in buying drivers. 41husk's estimate is pretty good but often you'll find that the drivers need as much money spent on them as project cars so why load all your investment $$$ up front. IMO I'd rather spend $40k on one that's done or $5k on one that needs to be restored.

[Troy]

I'm not a real believer in buying drivers. 41husk's estimate is pretty good but often you'll find that the drivers need as much money spent on them as project cars so why load all your investment $$$ up front. IMO I'd rather spend $40k on one that's done or $5k on one that needs to be restored.

Good points but many people drive their cars and can't realistically justify a $40k show car that just sits in the garage nor do they want to spend years and lots of money building a project. So many projects are also missing key (read expensive and hard to find) components. I got sick of my projects taking forever so I bought the Barracuda to drive and it's been a whole lot more rewarding so far. The cost was significantly cheaper than building one or buying a "restored" car. As a matter of fact, I'm toying with the idea of just re-assembling a Charger in whatever condition and driving it as well. In case of emergency it seems easier to sell a driver than a project - and they take up a lot less space.

I haven't been checking prices much lately but I'd also guess somewhere around the $14-20k range depending on year and condition. Typically, in similar condition, 69 is most expensive, then 68, with 70 a bit behind. These days a "nice" project means no rust or accident damage so bare shells are selling above $5k. It's definitely better (cheaper) to buy the most complete car possible and if it runs and drives you know that most of the major pieces are there. You also don't *need* a trailer. I'd go for another project if it were a rare/desirable car but most base models will (still) end up costing more to restore than they are worth in the end. This is all assuming that you don't have cheap/free labor and that you're not an expert mechanic, paint and body guru, or interior specialist.

Troy

[41husk]

I agree 100% Troy,  I don't know what  the Market dictates, My 68 is a good driver, it's complete rust free and looks excellent from 5', has matching #s 383.  I bought it as a project and probably have 12-15 k in it easily and I could not even estimate the # of hours.  I would not take a dime less than 20k and not even sure I would pull the trigger if someone offered that.  I probably have more money in the 73 Bee clone and really like it but would have to get 20k to make it worth my effort, but if I were offered 20 for the Bee. I would miss it

[h76]

A lot of cars I see for sale are in the $15k-25k range.I don't hardly see anything but projects under $10k.

[bull]

I'm not a real believer in buying drivers. 41husk's estimate is pretty good but often you'll find that the drivers need as much money spent on them as project cars so why load all your investment $$$ up front. IMO I'd rather spend $40k on one that's done or $5k on one that needs to be restored.

Good points but many people drive their cars and can't realistically justify a $40k show car that just sits in the garage nor do they want to spend years and lots of money building a project. So many projects are also missing key (read expensive and hard to find) components. I got sick of my projects taking forever so I bought the Barracuda to drive and it's been a whole lot more rewarding so far. The cost was significantly cheaper than building one or buying a "restored" car. As a matter of fact, I'm toying with the idea of just re-assembling a Charger in whatever condition and driving it as well. In case of emergency it seems easier to sell a driver than a project - and they take up a lot less space.

I haven't been checking prices much lately but I'd also guess somewhere around the $14-20k range depending on year and condition. Typically, in similar condition, 69 is most expensive, then 68, with 70 a bit behind. These days a "nice" project means no rust or accident damage so bare shells are selling above $5k. It's definitely better (cheaper) to buy the most complete car possible and if it runs and drives you know that most of the major pieces are there. You also don't *need* a trailer. I'd go for another project if it were a rare/desirable car but most base models will (still) end up costing more to restore than they are worth in the end. This is all assuming that you don't have cheap/free labor and that you're not an expert mechanic, paint and body guru, or interior specialist.

Troy

It is easier to sell a driver than a project. Right now I'm in no man's land with mine and wouldn't even consider selling it unless I had an emergency. In many cases a running project is worth as much or more than a disassembled project, even if you've already got $20k into it.

Believe me I seriously considered just fixing mine enough to get it streetable but in the end I decided to tear it apart and get it over with. And there are some days I'd much rather be driving a beater '68 than working on a half-finished one.

[h76]

I do see quite a few unfinished/tore apart projects.Probably a lot of people running out of money or I guess running out of time/interest.I could see how a resto. could drain your enthusiasm/interest.

[41husk]

Thats Kinda what happened to me with my 70 Challenger convertible, after getting the 68 to a driveable car my interest in the E body was sparked,  I got a little side tracked after buying the 73, but after I diddnt sell it at MM I decided to make it a BEE clone,  I have done more on the Challenger now in the last year than the previouse 10.

[Lostsheep]

I know my car was an above average driver. If you really start looking you could go nuts replacing things to a more restored level. My Charger has been in the shop since April.....and Im going nuts. I was so use to being able to drive it anytime I wanted to, it being gone sucks.

[The70RT]

The only way to come out ahead on a resto is to have had the car since back in the day . Since I have had the car since the late 70's I hope to only have 15k invested in it when finished.....but I am doing 75% of the work myself. If I had to buy the car today in similair condition I could add another 20K. So pretty much like everyone is saying easily 15-20K for the standard 318 drive.Add more $ for a Big Block,R/T, SE, or 4SPD.

[dkn1997]

problem with ebay is that there don't seem to be many self described drivers.  I have seen 3 categories and this applies to most mopars, not just chargers:

1. Really nice stratosphere priced cars, usually claiming to be real R/T or big block
2. Total wreck that you could barely put on a trailer
3. Basic driver that claims to be perfect and is priced in the stratosphere.

That last category is the really dangerous one.   Easy to spot, though, if you know what you are looking for.  These adds always go out of there way to tell you how easy it will be to fix all of the crap that's wrong with it.  They are also always full of contridictions:  "It's a rust free southern body that just needs a rear window channel, trunk floor, light frame repair, rear quarters and the paint is bubbling on the rockers" 
On complete cars, the a/c will never be charged either.  It will always be broken and the fix will always be "it just needs a charge"  never mind finding out why it lost the charge in the first place.

Another trick is for them to purchase physically large, but relatively cheap items like carpet, body patch panels, etc..   it's never installed on the car, mind you, and they always leave out that they lost everything that goes with these parts, so all of the clips/attaching hardware will end up costing you more in the long run. 

[Charger_Fan]

Here's a '70 for 5K, add a few bucks for an engine & you're off & runnin'!

http://1970chargerregistry.com/70messageboard/viewtopic.php?t=4726

[Nacho-RT74]

hey that one looks a nice project!!!

[chargerboy69]

A buddy just purchased a non matching 70 a few moths back. A decent driver, has some bondo in the rear. The paint looks good if your back about 50 plus feet, better make it 100. The interior is fair at best and he gave $12,000 for her. I remember 10 years ago I would have given at most, $3000 for her.

[AKcharger]

I dun know, seems like there were a few deals at Carlisle

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,31102.0.html
this was $11,500 running and looked all original...no takers


This one was a 440 4 speed went for 8K

[41husk]

Those are great deals!

[Dodge Don]

We track 70 Charger prices

http://1970chargerregistry.com/70messageboard/viewtopic.php?t=613

[BigBlockSam]

Here's a '70 for 5K 

i always stay away from cars that need frame raik work . 

i like to get my projects mechanically sound . where i can drive them and not worry about breaking down . i spray the rust with rust bullit to slow it down and work on the body while i drive them . i like to enjoy them while bettering them.
a good project is about $8000 to $15000. Rene

[Clement2]

           It is enough to a good driver 30k.


_________________
Rapid Tooling

[PocketThunder]

I saw this '69 R/T yesterday on craigslist.  Maybe a little high at $39,900, but they can always come down in price.  Maybe start at $30,000 and go from there.

http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/ctd/1180535034.html

[Charger_Fan]

[PocketThunder]

It was the new guys fault and i took the bait..   

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,31441.msg642786.html#msg642786

[Charger_Fan]

It was the new guys fault and i took the bait..   

I saw that. I was gonna make some FNG comment, but didn't wanna hurt anybody's feelers.