Hard to start after warmed up - my 68 Bee

[DPL]

Hey everyone reading,

My Bee has finally hit the road and I've got a fully rebuilt date correct 383 that was dynod at 425 horse and 495 ft lbs of torque around 5500.  The builder puts together race engines that keep their stock appearance.

It came without a carb and I bought a "new" one off eBay.  New, meaning it was run for 8 hours before the guy figured he needed an 850 (mine is a 750).

So, car runs very good after some fine tuning.

After running the car for maybe 3 or 4 minutes, it won't start unless I put my foot to the floor.  My guess is when I shut it off its flooding. 

I've checked the float and took the carb apart and completely cleaned it.  Still the same issue.

Any ideas?

[firefighter3931]

What kind of carb ? BG, edelbrock, holley ?

Could be a number of things...floats sticking, fuel pressure too high, floats too high, internal leak etc....

Next time it's running look down the venturi's and see if fuel is dribbling out after you shut it off.


Ron

[aifilaw]

another option is of course it is not jetted properly...assuming very rich...

since the last builder ran it and realized he needed/wanted an 850 instead of the 750, likely he has massive jets in there, which will make it run very rich. You are suffering the same problem that some people with carbed engines have when they take their car up in altitude 3+ thousand feet and then try to race it, and have it die constantly unless they have their foot in it or the idle too high.

[firefighter3931]

another option is of course it is not jetted properly...assuming very rich...

since the last builder ran it and realized he needed/wanted an 850 instead of the 750, likely he has massive jets in there, which will make it run very rich. You are suffering the same problem that some people with carbed engines have when they take their car up in altitude 3+ thousand feet and then try to race it, and have it die constantly unless they have their foot in it or the idle too high.

Good point. Have a look at the plugs for color....tan to light brown is what you want.


Ron

[ray230]

    
Re: Hard to start after warmed up - my 68 Bee
« Reply #1 on: July 16, 2007, 09:18:27 PM »
   Reply with quoteQuote
What kind of carb ? BG, edelbrock, holley ?
Could be a number of things...floats sticking, fuel pressure too high, floats too high, internal leak etc....
Next time it's running look down the venturi's and see if fuel is dribbling out after you shut it off.
Ron

Doing a little searching today to solve a carb problem. Similar to the one in this thread, I have trouble restarting after warmed up. Even if it is just idling in the garage for a couple of minutes it floods after I shut it off. Here are the details. Holley 3310 just rebuilt. '73 400, Elebrock torker, automatic, Comp cams high energy 268, Schumacker headers, eletronic (orange box).stock air cleaner.

I can see fuel dribbling from the left secondary after I shut it off. I think from the idle port? The guy that did the rebuild has been doing it for 40+ years. He told me that these carbs run a little fuel through the secondaries at low speeds to keep the fuel fresh for those old ladies that don't ever open them up. 

I have checked the float levels. Front was a little high, the rear seemed ok, no fuel comes out of the side port at idle.  The car runs and idles great aside from this problem. I had a little trouble with warm starts before the carb rebuild, but nothing like this. What can I do from here?

[firefighter3931]

   
I can see fuel dribbling from the left secondary after I shut it off.

Ray, that is most likely your problem....the carb is dumping raw fuel into the manifold and flooding the engine. Either the float is sticking & there's some dirt/debris in the needle & seat.



Ron

[c00nhunterjoe]

i doubt the float is stuck since he said the fuel level is ok. my money is on a peice of dirt keeping the needle and seat off. sounds liek an easy fix.

[ray230]

Thanks firefighter and coonhunter. Carbs and electrical are weaknesses for me. Adjusting floats and idle mix is about my limit (that's why I had someone else do the rebuild). To check the needle and seat I've got to pull the carb apart again, right? I know this probably is a dumb question for you, so thanks for your patience and help.