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Pls help me to seal my trans oil pan

Started by Anders, July 16, 2007, 04:38:38 PM

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Anders

What's the best/correct way to seal the oil pan.? Just bought MP chromed deep oil pan and installed it with rubber seal that comes with the kit, but the pan is leaking now. I used red high temp silicone on both sides of the seal. Is that the right way or should the plain seal be enough? I dont have a torque wrench. I'm affraid that I over tighted the bolts and now I broke the seal. Tomorrow I'm off to buy a new seal. Some advice desperately needed, I don't want to repeat this stupid mistake.
68 Charger

Plumcrazy

Did that pan come with just a plain rubber gasket or the reusable rubber coated steel gasket?   If it had just a plain rubber gasket get the reusable rubber coated one from any Chrysler dealer

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John_Kunkel

There are lots of reports of the chrome pans leaking, the common consensus is that the chromed surface isn't gasket friendly and that roughing up the mating surface with a sander helps.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

1BAD68

I know this sounds silly but I learned it the hard way...
if you are using silicone on the pan, you should wait overnight before filling it with fluid.

Anders

Thanks guys for quick reply. It came with the plain rubber seal. I will get the reusable seal tomorrow and try some sanding. Just curious, how much force should I use and does the bolts have to be tighted in right order? I quess a thin layer of silicone doesnt hurt either?
68 Charger

1BAD68

I would just use moderate force when torqueing the bolts so that the seal starts to compress, and do it in a pattern like tightening a wheel or a snare drum

67_Dodge_Charger

Another issue with the transmission is that the bolt holes go through and will leak fluid through over time.  I used a small amount of sealant on the bolt when installing ( and it is a good idea to wait until the sealant has sealed properly before adding your tranny fluid.

I believe the torque specs is 10 to 15 ft lbs. 

good luck

Robert

Charger_Fan

Quote from: 1BAD68 on July 16, 2007, 05:50:12 PM
I would just use moderate force when torqueing the bolts so that the seal starts to compress, and do it in a pattern like tightening a wheel or a snare drum
:iagree: Also, make a few laps around the pan. I usually snug them all up just beyond finger-tight for the initial pass, then I make about 4 more laps around the pan, each time snugging them up until the gasket just squishes out a little. By the time you get all the way around the pan, the first bolt will be loose again.
By the time you get done with 4 laps, they should all be tight, with a slight gasket squish at each bolt. If you tighten them much harder than that, you risk bending the pan at the bolt holes & it will most likely leak in the future.

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Plumcrazy

Quote from: Anders on July 16, 2007, 05:24:02 PM
Thanks guys for quick reply. It came with the plain rubber seal. I will get the reusable seal tomorrow and try some sanding. Just curious, how much force should I use and does the bolts have to be tighted in right order? I quess a thin layer of silicone doesnt hurt either?

Those are excellent gaskets because they don't deform and are reusable. Just rough up the pan and use the gasket dry. That way when you take it off there's no RTV to remove, just bolt it back on.

It's not a midlife crisis, it's my second adolescence.

bandit67

I have not had good luck with the rubber gaskets. I go to my tranny guy and buy his thick cork gaskets, and use paint thinner to clean both pan and tranny before installment.  Very seldom do I get a leak.......J

aifilaw

Quote from: 1BAD68 on July 16, 2007, 05:17:55 PM
I know this sounds silly but I learned it the hard way...
if you are using silicone on the pan, you should wait overnight before filling it with fluid.

this is usually the most common problem, and yes, scuff up the mating surfaces!
'72 B5 Metallic Blue Hardtop
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John_Kunkel

Quote from: 67_Dodge_Charger on July 16, 2007, 06:14:16 PM
Another issue with the transmission is that the bolt holes go through and will leak fluid through over time. 

None of the pan bolt holes in a TF go through to fluid, they either bottom in a blind hole or thread through to the outside of the case. Sealant on the bolt threads effects the torque reading and can lead to under/overtightening.

The best current pan gasket is the reusable factory offering and it must be installed dry, any sealant defeats the sealing action. Bolt torque is 150 in. lbs.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

Anders

Looks like I finally manage to seal the pan. Once again, you guys saved me from a lot of extra trouble and frustration. Thanks for all the useful tips and advices.
68 Charger

max

Quote from: John_Kunkel on July 16, 2007, 04:58:40 PM
There are lots of reports of the chrome pans leaking, the common consensus is that the chromed surface isn't gasket friendly and that roughing up the mating surface with a sander helps.

i agree and i have had the same problems with chrome t'state housings as well, but once you sand the chrome off of the mating surface they will seal.