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Hotchkis Subframe Connectors

Started by Dreamcar, February 03, 2015, 12:51:58 PM

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Dreamcar

Any got pics of them installed? Do they hang below the car much or are they tucked in pretty good? I heard they basically remove the need for rear torque boxes...how so?
"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)

HPP

I don't have pictures and they aren't used on my car, but the ones I have seen do tuck up pretty nicely. They look about the same as the CE 1x3 units in how low they appear.

I don't know that they remove the need for a torque box as a torque box ties the rocker to the floor and subframe, but the Hotchkis units will NOT fit a car that has torque boxes because they bolt to the opposite side of the spring hanger bolts.

Dreamcar

Quote from: HPP on February 03, 2015, 02:41:48 PM
I don't have pictures and they aren't used on my car, but the ones I have seen do tuck up pretty nicely. They look about the same as the CE 1x3 units in how low they appear.

I don't know that they remove the need for a torque box as a torque box ties the rocker to the floor and subframe, but the Hotchkis units will NOT fit a car that has torque boxes because they bolt to the opposite side of the spring hanger bolts.

Could the sf connectors go on first and then the tq boxes modified to fit?
"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)

WHITE AND RED 69

I've got them installed on mine and they fit very nice. Plenty of clearance and they line up perfectly with the seat bolts. No complaints from me. I can get some pictures when I get on my home computer.  :2thumbs:

They can be installed with torque boxes with some modifications. First you will have to do some trimming to the box itself. Then Hotchkis recommends removing the studs from the leaf spring hangers and welding them to the frame connectors. This way the leaf springs can still be unbolted and removed if needed. Without installing the studs this way there would be no way of getting a socket on the bolts with the torque box in the way.

Here are the Hotchkis instructions on how to install them together.

http://www.hotchkis.net/dbms/instructions/4010.pdf
1969 Dodge Charger R/T
2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee 75th edition
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1972 Plymouth Duster

Dreamcar

Quote from: WHITE AND RED 69 on February 03, 2015, 05:08:12 PM
I've got them installed on mine and they fit very nice. Plenty of clearance and they line up perfectly with the seat bolts. No complaints from me. I can get some pictures when I get on my home computer.  :2thumbs:

They can be installed with torque boxes with some modifications. First you will have to do some trimming to the box itself. Then Hotchkis recommends removing the studs from the leaf spring hangers and welding them to the frame connectors. This way the leaf springs can still be unbolted and removed if needed. Without installing the studs this way there would be no way of getting a socket on the bolts with the torque box in the way.

Here are the Hotchkis instructions on how to install them together.

http://www.hotchkis.net/dbms/instructions/4010.pdf

Thank you sir!!
"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)

Lennard

The instructions say that the subframe connectors need to be welded in last, when the vehicle is complete.
Does that go for any type if s.c.?  I want to buy the ones that have to be welded completely to the floor board and I'd like to do that when the car is still a shell so nothing will get damaged or burned.
Any advice?

Patronus

It's suggested that sub-frame connectors be welded in with the car complete, sitting under its own weight, on the tires. This allows you to be completely done setting and adjusting body panels, etc. and not fighting them. The US car tool ones are very nice. http://store.uscartool.com/mopar-parts.html
There's a few threads on here with the install. If your spinning it you should have some overall bracing in place yes?
'73 Cuda 340 5spd RMS
'69 Charger 383 "Luci"
'08 CRF 450r
'12.5 450SX FE

Lennard


Dreamcar

Quote from: Lennard on February 03, 2015, 08:32:22 PM
The instructions say that the subframe connectors need to be welded in last, when the vehicle is complete.
Does that go for any type if s.c.?  I want to buy the ones that have to be welded completely to the floor board and I'd like to do that when the car is still a shell so nothing will get damaged or burned.
Any advice?

I had contacted US Car Tool about their body dollies and installing their sc when the car is resting on the dollies as an empty shell with no engine and transmission. They said they install the sc all the time when only on the dollies.

I plan on having my shell of a Charger sitting on 8 jack stands that have all been leveled to compensate for floor variances and chassis locations. The measurements are available here (See last pic):

http://www.521restorations.com/index.pl?page=framejig


I figure if some guys are installing sc when their car is being held at both ends on a rotisserie, I should be fine using 8 stands that are placed at the correct locations.
"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)

Lennard

That's what I thought also. I see plenty threads on here where people welded them in while in a rotisserie frame so I figured if mine is in its natural position, it should be okay to weld them on.
Thanks for the replies!