K-Frame Questions

[Blue69RT]

Greetings,

Sadly, I do not yet have the vehicle indicated in the name, but I hope to soon...

I do have a question centering around the K Frame. This comes off of never having done a complete restoration, and hoping to begin one during my lifetime. I have done substantial work on a 69 Polara Wagon when I had one, so I do have some experience..

There is a K Frame on E-Bay that says it is for a '62 - '65 B-Body, but looks a great deal like those I have seen for the '68-'70 ones. Does anyone know if they are the same?

I am considering getting one, and beginning to assemble a front end and drive train, since I know that I may be searching for awhile before I find the right car to begin my first restore project on. Perhaps some advice on if this makes some sense, or if this is completely dopey?

I have been doing some background research, and trying to decide how to begin. First, I wanted to go to a dealership, and spend the 20K+ to get a car that was already done, but I have been leaning toward the project I had always planned to do with the old man...

I hope to read through the posts on this board, and keep visiting sites to learn what I can. I will do my best not to ask dumb questions, especially ones that have been covered.

Thanks for your time...

Bob
Chicago Area

[cudaken]

 First welcome Bob.

OK, let me see if I have got this right. You have no car but want a B-body and would like a 68 Charger. You want to buy a K-frame re do it, then buy a car?

I think it would be a waste of time. 68-70 Body K-frames for 318 to 440's are all the same. 225 slant 6 and 426 Hemi are driffrent but that is it. I have seen a few B-bodys with out a K-frame but not many.


                                                     Cuda Ken

[Blue69RT]

Thank you for the reply.

You are right. I haven't gotten a car yet, and I plan to get a '68 charger. I was just impatient, waiting to get the $$ together for a car, and wanting to start on SOMETHING. Perhaps building a car from the inside out is not the best idea.

The only things I prefer on the '68 over the '69 are the seats and the round tail lights, but either will do. I just don't really dig the front bumper on the '70, so I am pretty much down to the 2 years.

I will continue to do research, including learning how to use a MIG welder, and I may begin to accumulate the things I know I will need, such as trunk floor panels and things.

There seem to always be a number of decent cars on E-Bay or CollectorCarTraderOnline, so I will try to have patience.

Thanks again...

Bob

[John_Kunkel]

The '62-'65 B body K-member mounts the engine 1 5/8" further forward than the '66-'72.

[cudaken]

 Bob, hate to say it but you are thinking chevy backwards. (chevy is my a-s word)

Buy a Charger first then see what you need. It also does not have to all be done same time. Truck floors, that is the last thing I would do. In fact it was all mine. Well I take that back, still need a floor on the driver side but my metal patch I made 14 years ago is still keeping the new carpet dry.

If you are ready to buy now, what kind of money can you spend? I have friends that buy and sell Mopar's out the butt and will give me a good deal.

You guys would hate me if I posted all the Chargers I have passed on. Like a 72,000 70 Charger SE with a running 318 for $2500.00 and was a one owner. 68 Charger with no drive train 318 car but soild frame for $500.00. It was not pretty, looked like junk but solid foundation to start with.

My self, 70 Charger is the one I like to have again. Best grill is the 68 then 70 then 69. That is just my taste.

Bob I hope you keep posting and learn as you do.

                                          Cuda Ken 

[Chryco Psycho]

as john mentioned the K frames are different on the 65 & earlier B body

[ck1]

just wanted to add the shackle mount for the idler arm on a 66, and 67 k-frame are different then the 68 and 69. if I remember right for I was gonna buy a 67 k-frame for my 68. the 66 and 67 just have a single lower mounting plate for one hole for the bolt to the idler arm to go through were is the 68 and 69 have more of a shackle for the whole idler arm to fit in and the bolt goes through the top of the shackle through the idler arm and then through the shackle at the bottom meaning a much more stronger idler arm mount.............