Fusible Link melted, car wont start

[A383Cuda]

70, with the 318 and auto trans. New to Mopar. Car has been very dependable. Went for a ride with my son. He opened the glove compartment to look inside and didn't close it fully. The next time I went to drive the car the battery was dead. I tried charging the battery and also using the charger in jump mode and still the car would not start. I took the battery to have it tested and charged, battery is fine. I also replaced the positive cable while doing this. Replaced the battery, and still no start. No sound, no starter whine, just a puff of smoke from the bulkhead connector area; the fusible link. I wrote this off as a mistake on my part while trying to jump the car. I went out and bought another fusible link (correct amperage), again...puff of smoke.  In an effort to find the short I started feeling around on wires and visually inspecting for damage. Wires all look fine, though I did not unwrap any of the factory cloth type wrappings. The wires from the bulkhead connector to the alt gauge (ammeter?) felt a little warm. I quickly switched the key again from run to start and back. Again I felt to make certain the wires were warmer; they in fact were. When the key is in off or run position, the alt. gauge is at about 1/2 way. When I try to start it, the alt. gauge pegs to the left. I also noticed that a wire going to the wiper motor (thick copper wire), is exposed and looks like it may have had a problem. I am not sure if this is something new or something I missed before. I took a screwdriver and arc'd the starter relay. Starter whines but won't start the car. As I said, I am new to Mopars, haven't had the car long.

Questions:

1. If the alt gauge shows movement, does that mean it's working or should I still suspect it.
2. Is the wiring more likely to be the problem?
3. Is the wiper motor connected to the fusible link in any way, or just previous damage I missed before?
4. Is it possible I connected the positive cable incorrectly? I don't believe so because the starter has movement.
5. Could this be a regulator, neutral safety switch or ignition switch problem? Any test I can run to determine which if so?

I am totally lost at this point and appreciate all advice. 

[A383Cuda]

I wanted to add that I put a voltmeter to the output bolt on the back of the alternator. It shows 12+ amps (not running?). I am also showing this at the output of the starter relay.

[1BAD68]

70, with the 318 and auto trans. New to Mopar. Car has been very dependable. Went for a ride with my son. He opened the glove compartment to look inside and didn't close it fully. The next time I went to drive the car the battery was dead. I tried charging the battery and also using the charger in jump mode and still the car would not start. I took the battery to have it tested and charged, battery is fine. I also replaced the positive cable while doing this. Replaced the battery, and still no start. No sound, no starter whine, just a puff of smoke from the bulkhead connector area; the fusible link. I wrote this off as a mistake on my part while trying to jump the car. I went out and bought another fusible link (correct amperage), again...puff of smoke.  In an effort to find the short I started feeling around on wires and visually inspecting for damage. Wires all look fine, though I did not unwrap any of the factory cloth type wrappings. The wires from the bulkhead connector to the alt gauge (ammeter?) felt a little warm. I quickly switched the key again from run to start and back. Again I felt to make certain the wires were warmer; they in fact were. When the key is in off or run position, the alt. gauge is at about 1/2 way. When I try to start it, the alt. gauge pegs to the left. I also noticed that a wire going to the wiper motor (thick copper wire), is exposed and looks like it may have had a problem. I am not sure if this is something new or something I missed before. I took a screwdriver and arc'd the starter relay. Starter whines but won't start the car. As I said, I am new to Mopars, haven't had the car long.

Questions:

1. If the alt gauge shows movement, does that mean it's working or should I still suspect it.
2. Is the wiring more likely to be the problem?
3. Is the wiper motor connected to the fusible link in any way, or just previous damage I missed before?
4. Is it possible I connected the positive cable incorrectly? I don't believe so because the starter has movement.
5. Could this be a regulator, neutral safety switch or ignition switch problem? Any test I can run to determine which if so?

I am totally lost at this point and appreciate all advice. 

1. most likely working but I highly recommend performing this wiring upgrade http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml due to the fact that all that power going through the bulkhead connector causes all kinds of weird elec. bugs.
2. yes.
3. no but it goes thru the bulkhead connector
4. not sure what you mean.
5. I would pull the bulkhead connector and look closely at the connectors, they're probably corroded and causing the problem.

"I wanted to add that I put a voltmeter to the output bolt on the back of the alternator. It shows 12+ amps (not running?). I am also showing this at the output of the starter relay. "

I'm assuming you mean 12+ volts? The battery voltage shouldn't be lower than 12.4v when car isn't running, and within 0.5v of that at the alternator post and starter relay post. If it is lower, the battery is undercharged. If the readings at alt. and starter relay are far off from battery voltage, then you have bad wiring.

Trust me, do that wiring upgrade before your car starts on fire. Costs less than $30.00 and takes about 2 hrs.

[A383Cuda]

Planning on wiring as suggested. I disconnected the positive on the battery in the meantime to be safe. Is there a way to test the neutral safety switch? Although the warm wires at the gauge still lead me to lean in that direction.

[1BAD68]

The switch creates a ground when in neutral or park. test it where it enters the bulkhead connector and to battery ground with your voltmeter when in park and neutral (should be ground) and then in reverse or drive (should be no ground) then its working.

[SUPERBEE123]

YOU SOUND LIKE IT A HEAVY DUTY SHORT TO GROUND. BEST WAY TO FIND A SHORT IS TO KEEP IT SIMPLE AND NOT TEAR THE CAR APART TO FIND IT. A OLD TIME SHORT TESTER PLACED IN LINE(THE BURNT ENDS OF THE FUSIBLE LINK) IF THERE IS A SHORT PRESENT IT WILL START CLICKING.WHILE CLICKING YOU CAN START DISCONECTING THINGS,ALT. WIRES,STARTER WIRES.BLOWER MOTOR,ELEC. CHOKE,BULKHEAD CONNT. IF THE CLICKING STOPS YOU FOUND THE PROBLEM. A GOOD TRICK TO REMEMBER IS THAT MANY SHORTS TO GROUNDS HAPEEN IN AREAS OF HIGH HEAT AND VIBRATION. IF YOU CAN NOT FIND A OLD TIME SHORT TESTER USE A 15 AMP /12 VOLT CIRCUIT BREAKER WITH TWO PIG TAILS IN LINE BUT BE CAFEFUL OF HOMEMADE TESTERS AND WATCH FOR FIRES.

[roger01]

with this new upgrade ...i guess we would be operating without an amp guage ....do we install a new one some where else or just live without it al together ....

[71charger_fan]

When it happened to me, it finally traced back to an internal short in the alternator. Fine one day, crap the next.