color sanding procedure

[AmadeusCharger500]

Can anyone enlighten me on what to do now. I  wet sanded one door. I am using Meguiars diamon cut compound with a wool pad, and I have the swirl remover. This takes from a cutting degree of 10 down to 3. What do I use in between with the foam pad?
I went over the door twice with the diamond cut. There are still small specks left over from the orange peel. What do I do next?

I talked to the guy at the Meguiars tent and he had this long list of products they say you should use. 3 of them were stepping down from the diamond cut compound still using the wool pad, before reaching the foam pad.
I am just want to know.  Can some be skipped. It is really close now. Good shine and smooth but still really small orange peel.

[mopar_madman]

the orange peel means you need to wet sand some more. I used the diamond cut wool pad right to #9 swirl remover with a foam and #7 by hand. What grade paper did you sand with? Also between compounds wash the car to remove the residue from the coarser compound then polish

[Silver R/T]

I used new Meguiar's system, SOLO. It works very good, its one compound for cutting and polishing and comes with all the pads you need. I just cut and buffed a hood on my car and I'm pleased with the results.
You want to make sure you put enough clear on there to cut it. I start out with 1500 wetsand grit and go up to 2500. I use 3M rubber squeegee to remove water from area I'm sanding and I can see how much orange peel is left. After it is perfectly matte I start cutting it.

[dads_69]

Another thing is, if you still see orange peel in it after you've done everything you've been told to do, you may have orange peel in your sealer which then conitinued to show through your paint and clear now. Meaning, it will always be there untill re-painted. Even though your cutting the clear coat like stated above and if you still see the peeling, thats your answer.
Mark

[AmadeusCharger500]

Definitely need more sanding, which leads to New Question.
How long is too long to let paint sit. It has been over a week since the clear was put on.
Would it be easier to reclear the car (although thats not so easy is it)


I am using 1500 grit. I tried more sanding and I am getting better results. Just not perfect yet.

Silver R/T what is "SOLO" is that the name of the product or a statement?

MoparMadman_ Let me get this straight
1 Wet Sand till Matte(Like SilverRT)
2 Diamond Cut with wool pad
3 #9 swirl remover with foam pad
4 #7 by hand

Is this the #9 you are using?
http://www.autogeek.net/meg9swirrem.html

If so then what is #7. Is this a polish?

[hemi-hampton]

I think Madman is talking about different #'s then you. The coumpound Your Using goes from #10 Course to #1 fine. You need #5 inbetween. Or if you use madmans #'s you's start out with #1, Then #3, Then #7 glaze. LEON.

[Silver R/T]

this is the system Im talking about
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=200116915707&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=010

[AmadeusCharger500]

Since I am using the Diamond cut would this be the next step in the process.
It looks like right in the middle of their cutting degree scale.


http://www.autogeek.net/megdualaccle.html

[mopar_madman]

I sanded with 1000 to 1500 to 2000 then I used the diamond cut #28, this took out all the sand scratches and left a great finish with no swirl marks, then I used the #9 (the one you posted) this left a very deep high gloss finish and will remove swirl marks if you have any. Later after assembly i hand polished with the #7, this is a hand polish or glaze some only use this instead of waxing on garage kept vehicles some use before waxing to hide light scratches (just a temp hide though) its just a nice polish , great for dark finishes. I waited a week before I started sanding, what kind of buffer are you using and how fast are you going? here's how mine turned out

[dads_69]

Looks great. I use a De Walt buffer. Normal rpm's are around 1200 to 1400 depending on the size of the area I'm doing. 1500 for small quick stuff, very carefully though....You can sand a bit more with 2500 grit to get those minimal scratches out later in you feel you need to.
Mark

[mopar_madman]

I have a Makita 9227, great buffer

[bill440rt]

I've never used Meguiar's buffing compounds, only 3M. My technique is as follows:

1) I sand the car, one panel at a time on each step, with 3M 1000 grit wet by hand with a large (2"x4"), stiff rubber squeegee to remove the orange peel.

2) After I finish 1 panel with 1000, I stay on the same panel & switch to 2000 wet, with the same squeegee technique. This removes the 1000 grit scratches. I'll do the whole car, panel by panel, with 1000 then 2000 until the whole car is sanded. Stay AWAY from sharp edges & body lines, just sand up to the line or stay about 1/8" away.

3) I'll then start at my first panel, and use a 3M Diamond cut 3000 grit DA pad. I use it WET, by HAND. They are about 1/8" thick, & have a slight "padding" to them. I go over the 2000 grit scratches to remove them. This will put a slight sheen on the panel & you can see really what it'll look like when buffed, texture-wise. It really cuts down the time with the wheel trying to remove scratches. You'll use less compound also.

4) Once a panel is sanded with 3000, I'll wipe it off & start buffing. I use a Snap-on variable speed buffer with a wool polishing pad for compounding. A little old school, but it works for me. I like 3M's Perfect It II polishing compound. With the panel sanded with 3000, I really only have to go over an area twice with compound to get a really good shine. Maybe 3 times if you really, really have to.

5) I'll then glaze the panel, using 3M's Machine Glaze or Perfect-It glaze for darker or lighter colors, depending on the color of the car. The one I'm doing now is Sublime, but the darker color type glaze worked awesome. I use a smooth, FOAM pad for glaze. With the 3000 grit, then twice with compound, I only really had to do one step of glaze.

I'll do the whole car that way. 3000, compound, glaze. Next panel: 3000, compound, glaze. And so on, until the whole car is done. Mine came out like a glass window. No swirls, nothing. I left a very slight orange peel texture in my '69, but it still looks miles deep.

[hemi-hampton]

Looks Good LEON

[AmadeusCharger500]

Bill or is it Leon?
That pic makes the paint look amazing!

I have only been using 1500 grit wet and it seems an indefinite time until I get it without orange peel. And even then I see the tiniest flecks.

The 1000 grit and 200 grit you use is in a Squeegee? Does that mean it is a block with the sandpaper allready attached?
Or are you talking about using a squeegee to wipe off the dibris after each sanding?

Is the 3000 grit pad just an adhesive paper attached to a DA pad? And you say this is not done with the DA correct? Its just holding the disc pad in your hand?

[hemi68charger]

How did you clean out the residual compound  from the cowl - fender areas after the process was done?

[bill440rt]

Amadeus,
I kinda think starting with 1500 is too fine. Some people start with 600, but that is WAY too rough for me. 1000 is a good starting point, the roughest I like to go. Depending on how much you sand, the smoother the paint texture will be. If you sand until the panel is totally dull, technically there should be no more texture or orange peel left.

My panels were sanded smooth, but I did not go overboard, so when I buffed it there is still a small trace of texture left. Almost like a Lexus or Mercedes type finish. With 1500, it's very difficult to remove the orange peel completely, that's why you need to start out with something slightly coarser. Work slow, & check your progress often.

I like to sand in an "X" pattern. Up & down diagonal strokes going down the panel, then go the opposite direction from the other side. Work a 1' x 1' section at a time. Keep the paper fresh, clean, & sharp. Dull sandpaper doesn't help anything.

Use a plain, 3M black rubber squeegee, the larger 2"x4" type. They are a little stiffer, so the paint sands flatter. You can use a smaller 1-1/2"x3" squeegee for smaller areas. I fold the sandpaper in thirds, then wrap it around the squeegee. When one side gets dull, flip it over to the next side & keep working. You'll always have a sharp face, & waste less sandpaper that way. Slide the squeegee out of the sandpaper to wipe the panel & get rid of the mess as you check your work, or just buy an extra squeegee.

The 3000 grit pad is meant for a DA with a special backing disc for color sanding. It basically velcros on. I like to use them by hand, WET, with a few drops of soap in the water. Trust me, the stuff is so fine you won't have to worry about making waves in the paint by using just your hand, it'll just remove the 2000 grit scratches. It REALLY helps when it comes time to compound, & the paint shines even better. Instead of trying to remove 2000 grit scratches with the buffer, you're now just POLISHING it.

Hemi68,
I try to remove compound sludge as soon as possible. As much as I hate doing it, I had to use a hose with soap to remove some. Try spraying soapy water down into the cowl with an old Windex spray bottle. Let it soak for a few minutes, re-wet if necessary. Open the doors, stuff a wet rag up into the cowl sides to remove sludge.
Another secret trick: FOAM paint brushes from your local Home Depot. The kind with the round wooden handles. Wet it with soapy water, stuff it down into the cowl between the fender, & give it a wipe. Rinse with water, & dry. If the car is mostly assembled, you can tape one at the end of a paint stick & stuff it into the hinge pillar/cowl area as well. Smaller foam paint brushes work good for doing the vents on the cowl. Even on the grille, etc. Long, wooden Q-tips also work good for cleaning up the vents in the cowl, but are hard to clean up the bottom area.

[mopar_madman]

AmadeusCharger500 , post some pics would love to see the car, forgot to ask what color you painted

[JR]

What i find helpful sometimes once your totally done buffing to remove dried compound from creases is WD-40 on a cloth. Works good.

[AmadeusCharger500]

Ok I got the paper but what is this squeegee thing. I could not find it. Is it just like a dish sponge?

My camera is really old. Needs exactly the right lighting.

Bill you are being very helpful, thank you!

[mopar_madman]

http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/sandpaper/Sandpaper_Accessories.html   3m wet or dry rubber squeege scroll down the page and that's what you need.

[bill440rt]

Here's another link:

http://www.3m.com/product/information/wetordry-rubber-squeegee.html


When using the larger squeegee, I fold the paper in thirds holding it longways horizontally. Wrap it qround the squeegee & you have three clean sides to use.
When using a smaller squeegee, I tear the paper in thirds down the longest length of the paper. These long strips get folded in fourths, they become the perfect size to wrap around the smaller squeegee. You use the squeegee as a smaller version of a sanding block. Use it to wipe the sludge away to check your progress as you work.

I'm just curious as to how you got by doing bodywork & a paint job without one?? 

[Silver R/T]

Ive had great results with Meguiar's SOLO system. Did my hood and bumper cover.

[AmadeusCharger500]

I have to admit I gave up, thinking dads69 might be right.
So I repainted the trunk and then did all the other steps you layed out for me Bill.
That sure seemed to be the problem. It came out really nice.
The thing I am wondering now. Do I need to redo color and clear for the whole car or can I try just reclear.

Not sure how I deal with the things you use the squeegee for. I just use a flat sanding board. I think its 6x3. It has a cork underly for slight cushion.

[dads_69]

Technically, you can wet sand the hole car down with 600 or 1000 grit and re-clear the car. It will look flat/smooth when completed this time for sure. As long as you get the clear to flow out like  glass or close to it, then you'll have minimal wet sanding after words. Glad we all could help you out. If I was closer to you, I'd help you out with the spraying at no charge.
Mark

[AmadeusCharger500]

That would be a really generous offer.
Regardless, your help has been invaluable during a frustrating time.

I change my mind every time I walk out to that garage as to how to approach this.
I thought the body work was tough and this would be easy gliding from here on out.

I am halfway done color sanding and buffing the trunk lid. It seems to take a very long time. I think 1.5 hour or so just to do half. Is this normal?
The tough part is not knowing if I am pursuing the right path at each step.
I sand 1000, 2000, 3000. Then buff. Then I see some left over orange peel so I sand 1000, and 2000 just those areas again (leave out the 3000 just do to exhaustion). Then I rebuff. Then use a cleaner polisher then a swirl remover and it looks almost perfect (ALMOST).
Wow what a job.

[dads_69]

Its normal for color sanding to take a while, yes. You unfortunately can't rush this part of the job either. Depending on how the orange peel is, good or bad, you can sometimes use 1500 then 2500 grit paper to do the job vs. 1000,1500,2000 and finish out w/2500. I use 3m for buffing and the swirl remover after words also. Buffing is an art, but most anything that has to do with body and paint is.
Keep up the good work. The end result will pay off.
Mark