My clutch is having issues...how can I test it? Hard to replace it?

[Wakko]

My clutch is really weird.  I have no over/under spring on my pedal so the pedal is very loose.  If I crank the nut out to raise the pedal, I only need to push the clutch pedal about an inch or two to disengage the clutch for shifting.  If I loosen the nut and lower the pedal, it won't go into gear well even with the pedal to the floor.  The nut I'm talking about, by the way, is on the shaft connecting the clutch fork to the pedal assembly. 

As it is, I have to turn the engine off to put the car in reverse or it grinds.  Sometimes it won't go into first unless I go into second and jam it up.  I also can't spin the tires because only the clutch will slip.  When I got the car though, it'd spin em no problem.  I adjusted the clutch when I put new tires on the car, so I'm not sure which caused the clutch to slip vs. the tires spinning.

One of my friends said that it's possible that when the new engine was installed 1200 miles ago that the assembly was incorrectly installed and one of the springs on the disc is broken.  Is there any way I can inspect this thing and find out if it's damaged?  If so, how hard would it be for me to remove and replace the clutch assembly in my driveway on stands/ramps?  440/833 setup.

[Ghoste]

Or the clutch is just plain worn.  Could also be the throwout bearing.  Those were new 1200 miles ago?  I have also had the clutch fork pivot break off up inside the bellhousing and cause those kind of problems.  It is all the correct linkage right?
As to changing it in the driveway, it isn't too hard but don't expect to be on the road again in 20 or 30 minutes.

[Wakko]

I don't know how old the clutch is.  I'd hope he'd have swapped it out when doing the motor, but considering some of the other shortcuts I'd not gonna expect it.  I'll email the previous owner and see what he has to say.  Linkage may or may not be correct as I dont have anything to compare it to, but I have no reason to believe it's wrong.

[Charger4404spd]

Do you have the fork return spring on the fork?

Grinding goin in gear means the clutch isnt disengaging all the way, adjust the nut on the rod until you have approx. 1-1.5" of free play on the pedal.

[Wakko]

There's a spring supposed to be on the fork?  Theres none that I can see.  I'll have to take a second gander.   When I adjust the clutch to have 2 inches of freeplay, it's a royal pain to drive since it engages/disengages right away.  Talk about feathering the clutch, it's a nightmare.

[MadScientist]

This is funny (not really).  I am having exactly the same issues except Ive got less than 200 miles on my hardware.  Ive gone over the linkage at least 10 times and everything looks factory (including the fork return spring).

It shifts fine when on the roll and even goes into first nicely when I am kind to it.  If I try to get on it in first however, it will spin the clutch not the tires.

Mine also engages really high up.

What to do?

MS

[Ghoste]

Something isn't set up right because there is no way it should slip the clutch before the tires in a normal application.
What are you using for a pressure plate?  No oil leaks back there are there?

[Charger4404spd]

This is funny (not really).  I am having exactly the same issues except Ive got less than 200 miles on my hardware.  Ive gone over the linkage at least 10 times and everything looks factory (including the fork return spring).

It shifts fine when on the roll and even goes into first nicely when I am kind to it.  If I try to get on it in first however, it will spin the clutch not the tires.

Mine also engages really high up.

What to do?

MS

I pulled my clutch 4 times because of slippage. Finally discovered that the Z bar was barely hitting the belhousing when gettin on it. The torque raises the engine just enough to let the Z bar hit.
Simple fix.........remove Z bar and bend the arm over about 3/8" or so.

[MadScientist]

Hmm.

No leaks that I have noticed under there. I will have to check the Z bar alignment, that could be a possiibility.  I am almost certain its something Im doing, everything is new under there!

I will figure this one out somehow!

thanks for the input, I'll get under there and report back after this weekend

MS

[694spdRT]

There's a spring supposed to be on the fork?  Theres none that I can see.  I'll have to take a second gander.   When I adjust the clutch to have 2 inches of freeplay, it's a royal pain to drive since it engages/disengages right away.  Talk about feathering the clutch, it's a nightmare.

The spring on the fork slides into a mount inside the bellhousing....you should be able to see it if you pop the dust boot off. I had a problem with the spring on my clutch fork and my new throwout bearing. The old spring would not hold the clutch fork tightly in place and the throwout bearing spring clips were too large. This caused the bearing to move to far forward forcing the pressure plate to grind against the clutch disk. No amount of adjustment would help. I ended up buying a new clutch fork and throwout bearing...problem solved.

Check your Z bar as well to make sure it is not loose on its pivot.

[Steve P.]

Bottom line, the derned thingsa gotta come outa dare..

The peddle should be adjusted to about 1.5 inches from the floor..

Definitely check everything out. Worn part #1 along with worn part#2 adds up to a big pile of problems..

Check all engine and tranny mounts too.. Misalignment can throw off the works...

[Chryco Psycho]

you probably have a diaphragm clutch with a warped cover , I would get a Borg  & Beck or a B&b / Long style from McLeod , get the over center spring put back in so the system works the way is was supposed to 

[Wakko]

Are these over center springs available anywhere?  Where does it go?

[metallicareload99]

I know Brewer's has them, where I got mine from (937) 698-4259.  Passon probably has them (570) 401-8949.  Also Paddock seems to surprisingly have a lot of 4-Speed parts, and I suppose maybe even year one

[Wakko]

I just spoke to the previous owner and he told me he never replaced the clutch.  So who KNOWS what condition it's in.  I can understand cutting some corners when you have to, but if you're gonna have the motor/tranny out, wouldn't it make sense to replace the clutch too?  Sigh.

[MadScientist]

When you say overcenter spring, are you talking about the one associated with the pedal assembly (over the clutch pedal)?  Im really beginning to think I screwed something up when I put the tranny in...

MS

[694spdRT]

When you say overcenter spring, are you talking about the one associated with the pedal assembly (over the clutch pedal)?   Im really beginning to think I screwed something up when I put the tranny in...

MS

Yes, that is the over center spring.

[MadScientist]

OK, how does one remove it without becoming and amputee.  Mine creaks and groans like its 35 years old or something.  do I need to remove it?  Or just remove the pedal assembly and treat it in place? (to get rid of the noise).  how would this affect the engagement of the clutch?

thanks

MS

[Charger4404spd]

Push the pedal all the way to the floor and with a big screwdriver,etc., pry it off.
To install, this is the best method I have come up with so far.

Get a small ratchet strap, hook to seat track and ratchet spring up and slide onto pin. It is still a b*tch.

[MadScientist]

Thats what I figured.  With my luck, itll rip my seat rails right off the floor and pull the seat into the dash!  Along with my arm!  Going to gut the interior anyway, so I'll add that to the list.  Im sure its easier with the pedal assy in the car.

thx

MS

[Chryco Psycho]

without th eover center spring the clutch pedal will not stay at the top & the added bonus is the pedal will be Much harder to push also
Why would you want to remove it
the way to install or remove them is to drop the peadls down & lift the pedal way up & the spring will go on by hand , as the pedal is lowered it stretches the spring 

[Wakko]

Mine never had one.  My clutch is easy to push...any easier and the pedal will push itself.    I'm going to have to pull the inspection cover and see what I Can see.  Probably end up having to replace the clutch, but for now it will have to just work...more important things to spend the money on right now.

[Chryco Psycho]

you probably have a diapragm clutch with 18 levers [actually 1 palte formed into a cone , these are the poorest style clutch , especially for torquey engines ]

[MadScientist]

The only reason I would want to remove the over-center spring is that I am planning to re-do the interior bow to stern and I am going to refurbish the pedal assembly as well.  I dont think the over center spring has anything to do with my particular clutch issues. The spring is just noisy right now.  The rest of it is more likely due to either linkage alingment/adjustment or a bigger issue with the clutch itself (to be determined).

MS