V10 Charger (Update 5/25/21)

[GT]

Ok, so most of the engine side components are mocked up now.  I fit the original air cleaner I made (prior to moving the engine back), and it does not fit very well - originally it was going to pull fresh air from under the fenders, but that was before i realized all the other "stuff" going on under there... I'll thick of something else later to replace it. 

The current plan is to have the cruise control box on the drives side front and one of the InfinityBox power cells on the passenger side front.   Still debating if i can hide those better... perhaps when i make the radiator cover i can extend it to hide these  :scratch chin:

[keepat]

Great progress and nice job on the reservoirs, AC lines, and radiator mounts! You are right about Tig welding being 100x harder than Mig welding. It's like the difference between driving and drifting.
Pat 

[Ghoste]

TIG is art and science.

[oddis]

  just going to sit here and watch as it becomes a perfect charger......       perfect combo and nice work 

[rapidtransitrick]

any progress on this?

[GT]

Sort of... Mostly knocking out little nagging items.  took off about 6 weeks for vacation and international travel - just now getting back to it (but the little lady has some home projects for me - so it'll be slow going the next few months).   Here is some catch up since the last update...

Closed off and finished boxing in the radiator support ends.  Added additional rigidity and looks cleaner.  Then finally knocked out the location and final mounting locations for the cruise control and front power cell:

[GT]

Always hated the stock horns... Seems like most of the aftermarket ones sound off, are cheap, too bulky, etc.  After some surfing, i found certain years of caddys/etc. came with an electric four note horn system... very loud and full sounding, similar but not as obnoxious as a train horn.  Scooped up a nice set and mounted them on the front bumper supports out of the way:

[GT]

Years ago, i purchased a new gas tank, then i scored a stealth system.  There are some better solutions available now, but i decided to go ahead and use this system for now - should work well.   Took about 45min to complete the install.  It was a bit nerve raking to drill a hole in my perfect gas tank - turned out nice.

[GT]

All done:

[GT]

Also have been making some progress on the power window and headlight actuator controllers.  Here is a mockup of the near-final unit.  This is basically it.  No relays/etc.  Less than about $20 thus far (excluding power window motors).  Once i finish programming, i will be able to use small switches that are ground based (no power running thru them) and have partial or one touch up/down control.  There is a feedback system so the control knows when the window as the end of the travel (or your head/arm is caught in the window) and will automatically stop the motor with out the hassle and extra wiring of limit stops/switches.   Other sensors will be attached as well - if those work, i'll share more.

[GT]

The last thing i did before break was to hang sheet metal and the hood on the front for a final clearance check/mock up.  All is well. 

[keepat]

 Very nice! I would love to learn more about the window controller with the safety stops and I also like where you located your horns I may have to borrow that idea ;-)
Thanks
Pat

[rapidtransitrick]

outstanding. this stuff gets me going!!!

[Dino]

Nice work!  

I'm currently installing DEI 530T modules in my car that will make the power windows operate with the alarm remote and one touch on the switches. It also has that feedback system. I had to buy modules, I'm not smart enough to make my own like you did!  

[rapidtransitrick]

how goes it, any updates?

[charger chris]

Nice car.

[rapidtransitrick]

how is this coming along GT?

[GT]

Still making progress... Tons of little things needed for mock up (brackets/mounting stuff/etc.).  I'm trying to wrap a few more items up before i blow this thing apart for the last time and toss it back on the rotisserie to finish the underside.  Not too many pics, but enjoy.

Had to modify the Viper stainless exhaust manifolds - cut off the end and weld on new ones. I real PITA since where i needed to cut was oval shaped and required work before i could TIG the new ends on.

[GT]

Jigged up - lots of time spent getting a gapless fit before welding.   The other side turned out better.  I'll weld in the O2 bungs on the down pipes. 

[GT]

No pictures, but spent a lot of time installing and aligning doors, what a battle.  Was going to rebuild my old hinges, but decided to just install new ones from AMD... not impressed.  The passenger door went on in 5 minutes, perfect alignment with body lines...  The drivers door did not.  After battling for a couple of hours it was installed, but the door/quarter lines are not lining up.  It matched when i replaced the quarters... so i walked away for about a week - really 

Then i remembered the door i was installing was not the original door to the car (that i used to line up the quarter)... So now i need to use the original door (which has other serious issues), or i need to modify the top of the quarter - which is what i will likely do.  I know others have encountered this problem as well... 

At any rate, i also installed the seats, modified the seat frames to lower them, installed the dash, console, steering wheel and column and the gages.    I knew the console would sit higher do to the raised tunnel - i really like the height (felt the old one was 3-4 inches too low).

After installing, i decided i do not like the layout of the gages - that is, how obscured they are by the steering wheel... I'll need to think on this a bit - plenty of time to work this.

The SRT-10 seats are really growing on me... after lowering them they look really good (comfortable as well).

I may just need a shorter shifter, however... 

[GT]

I also built a panel that will bolt into the trunk between the wheel well and the trunk mounted battery.  I will hold the remote solenoid for the starter feed, the rear power cell, and the safety hub.  The safety hub 150 has ground buss and a power feed, the fuses (mini and AMI) are protected by a sealed lid (it is marine grade).  I'll use this vs. the maxi-fuses for the power cell and it gives me future expandability for a rear amp/etc. 

So here is how this works: A 0/1 gage welding cable connects the battery to the solenoid on top, then runs thru the interior of the car and passes thru the firewall to the starter.  The solenoid is activated by the power cell under it (Push the start button and the master cell sends a signal to the power cell to start the engine).  Otherwise no current flows over the starter cable.   

A 2 gage wire attaches to the right side of the safety hub, which in turn supplies fused power to the power cell from the top.  The buss on the left is for grounds.  On the bottom (can't see it) are a number of circuits with mini fuses for whatever else might needed).  One of the top connections will send fused power via a 2Ga wire to the front of the car...

[rapidtransitrick]

you have been busy. will you be making a schematic for all your circuitry?

[GT]

Yes i have multiple pages of schematics.
Here is a basic one of some of the engine wire harness.

Unfortunately the resolution is lousy due to file size limits...

[tan top]

 

[rapidtransitrick]

pages and pages should be a good reference