Rear axel disassebmly.

[69XP383]

Moving on from the engine and tranny to the rear end. I've got a 69 with an 8 3/4 and 3.23 gear. The rear seal is leaking, and I'd just like to get it apart to inspect and change the seal. From what I can tell, I have to remove both axels to do this. Any do's/dont's when I get ready to do it. From what I've read, NO HEAT, and maybe a special tool or two.....

Should I replace anything else while it is apart, looks like each axel will need at least two seals each?

I only plan on going so far as removing the rear assembly, and I only want to replace a gasket or two at most unless you oldtimers can tell me otherwise....

[RD]

the rear pinion seal or the axle shaft flange seals?

[69XP383]

Well, now that the rear end is out and on the floor, it's leaking from the pinion housing seal, but I think you have to take the axels out to change it right?

Of course the brake lines were rusted beyond using any conventional means to get them off, so now I'll need the passenger side line from the tee on axel to drum caliper. Anyone make pre-bent lines for these rides? By the time it's sealed and cleaned, I'm sure I'll need the left side as well. I also need the high pressure rubber line that goes to the vent tee as well...

[Charger1973]

They make all those lines.  I dont have a link but im sure someone does.  Its not really a big deal, when a cars this old you are better off replacing them anyway.   

[John_Kunkel]

No need to remove the axles to change a pinion seal, it can be done with the center section in place but if your '69 has a center section (3rd member) with casting numbers that end in 489 you need to take some extra precautions due to the crush sleeve when replacing a pinion seal.

The easiest way to do it is to take a center punch and punch dots on the end of the pinion thread, the nut and the yoke so that the parts will be reinstalled in the same relationship to each other and the nut tightened to the exact same place as removed. If the casting number ends in 741 or 742 proceed to paragraph three.

To replace the seal, just remove the yoke nut and yoke; then pry out the old seal and carefully drive the new one in, replace the yoke and tighten the nut.

[69XP383]

Thanks guys,

I think I was just up too late working on the car. I have two weeks off and I'm trying to get as much done as possible before I get started on the body.

The axle is out and apart I actually needed to replace the housing gasket too. So I guess I'll just try to locate a gasker kit. I agree with the lines, after taking my time and trying to carefully undo them, I realized it was just better off cutting them and replacing them. As for the tee, after cleaning off years of dirt, oil, and grime, I realized the hose was separate from the tee and not pressed into it as I originally thought (no wonder I couldn't find the hose on the internet).

I did run into one stumper though. Is there some sort of spacer/plate (rubber or other) that fits between the leaf springs and the axle housing plate that is part of the axle (where the u bolts attach)? I noticed some sort of material that is crumpling apart. It looks like it is metallic, but it is very weak and breaks apart like hard clay....could actually be dirt I suppose. If i remember right, we just lowered a friends camaro and I seem to recall GM had some type of spacer/plate there.