1972 Charger Brake and Turn Signal Issues

[Neuromorph]

I noticed a few days ago that I had no left lights in the rear.  THe front yellow lights, and dash monitor work.   Me and friend checked all lights and we found the Brakes and Hazzard are also not working.  Rt turn lights (front and rear) are ok.  When I turn the headlights on i get all rear lights to work fine.

Checked fuses, and they look good.

I checked the brake switch and found that it may not toggle with the pedal depression.  Would this cause the left/brake/hazzard lights not to function?

I also dont hear a click when the turn signal.  But I dont remember if it was ever working.

If it is the brake switch, how do I repair/remove it? 

Thanks all for reading.

"Help me Nacho, you are my only hope!-- 30th Anniversary Reference"

[Nacho-RT74]

Do you say you get ALL REARS fine when turn on headlights INCLUDING brigther ones to brakes and blinkers ?

brakes and hazzards source even are both from same batt side of fusebox, they share wiring only FROM column switch to rear. but both use different wires to enter on column turnring switch

brake switch:
12 volts on pink wire... white wire is output to column

turning switch ( column )
check if you have 12 volts on column pink wire... is allways hot. Comes from flasher. Flasher cuts and go power ( that's the real blinker "switch" )

check if you have 12 volts on white wire... is hot just when press brakes.

Green ( left ) and brown ( right ) down the column are the blinkers/brakes lines to rear. Of course they are hot just when blink ( hazzardor turining ) or press brake... lighter wires ( green and tan ) are the same to front and dash, so without power on brakes function.

Remove/repair... I will be on that deal soon... I got melted fuse box area because brake pedal switch is coming bad. Never Have done it, but sure is a piece of cake.

I would say more you have damaged turning column switch... If you have right tunring you must have left since flasher is the same to both sides. That does mean turn flasher is good same as wire up column ( red ).

Hazzard and brakes control section is a separated section of same tunring switch that could it be damaged too.

[Neuromorph]

Do you say you get ALL REARS fine when turn on headlights INCLUDING brigther ones to brakes and blinkers ?

As of now i have been working the problem solo, so I dont know if the brakes work when the headlights are on. 

Any suggestions for getting into the column to test the turning column switch?


Im gonna double check the brake switch first and test voltages on teh wires soon.  Will post back with results as soon as possible.

[Nacho-RT74]

Well without dissasembling the only way to check is checking if you have input and no output.

check for inputs first
Pink wire has power allways. If you don't have power there, then hazzards flasher is unplugged or damaged... or fuse that feeds flasher
White wire just when press brakes pedal. If you don't have power there, the brake pedal switch went bad.
Red wire just on acc or Run ignition position. If you don't, then turning flasher is gone or unplugged... or fuse went bad.

If inputs are good then outputs turning on of course what you will test ( hazzards on when check hazzards output and same to turning lever ):
on hazzards all brown, tan, green and light green are powered. You can jump the flasher plug to don't need to wait untill blink to check and get constant output
on brakes, just brown and green have power
on turning ( RUN OR ACC IGNITION ) left side are green and light green. right side are tan and brown.

You can also feed a direct input to white, pink and red, from batt or fusebox batt source ( prong enclosured on fuse box ) to bypass all the system before and just check the turning switch itself. Then you won't need to turn on ignition switch. Take in mind when you feed white wire you will have instantly brakes lights without need to press or switch on anything.

becarefull with black wire... is ground to switch on the horn relay.

[Neuromorph]

check for inputs first
White wire just when press brakes pedal. If you don't have power there, the brake pedal switch went bad.

I checked the wires to the brake switch.  It looks like no power from the WHITE wire to the switch.  I put voltmeter between the brownish/red and white wires and got no voltage.  Tried a new switch and got no lights.  So i think its the wire. 

I think the white wire is bad or grounded somewhere.  I dont know where this White wire terminates, if it is loose or if it is just in need of replace.

I have not checked any inputs for the turn signals yet, since the brakes are the first thing on my mind.

Where do the two wires to the brake switch terminate?

[Nacho-RT74]

pink wire is the one with power. Comes from fuse box. is the same fuse that feeds hazzard flasher... number 3

white wire is no powered until brake pedal is pressed. Simply runs between brake switch and steering column to feed rear lights. No more than that

[Neuromorph]

turns out there was a short in one of the wires from the turn signal harness.  Rather than cut and splice, im gonna replace the whole switch.  Hopefully it lasts another 35 years.

[Nacho-RT74]

sure will do

[T16]

I´ve got no turn signal.. no brake light and no hazzard light..

Gonna remove my steering wheel tomorrow and have a look at the turn signal switch.. any more ideas..?
Got +12V at brake light switch and turnsignal relay
Also would like to know how I can test my turn signal relay 

Thanks 

[Nacho-RT74]

I´ve got no turn signal.. no brake light and no hazzard light..

Gonna remove my steering wheel tomorrow and have a look at the turn signal switch.. any more ideas..?

no more than already exposed... look if you have inputs and if you have and no output then definitelly you got the answer

Got +12V at brake light switch and turnsignal relay

and 12 volts when press brake pedal on white wire ?

Also would like to know how I can test my turn signal relay 

just put some load... turn and hazzard flashers blinks just when they have bulb loads... that's the moment when they start to blink. The load heats the flasher internally and cuts the power...then cold and again gives power, untill heats and.... etc...

Thanks 

you are welcome