SEM Color-Coat Problem:

[Captain D]

Hello,

I'm kinda new at the restoration hobby and I think it's showing, lol:

I bought the SEM Color-Coat to re-do the interior of my 69' Charger. I want to do it right, so I bought the SEM Vinyl Prep for a particular item. I recently bought new repro front armrest pads.

I used the SEM Viny Prep, followed the intructions, and then applied the Color-Coat. Within a day, it began to crack and appear brittle-like. This isn't good for either these armrest pads or for the seats since I'd like to have this particular shade of color-coat to use on my new seat covers later on down the road.

I think where I made my mistake was the outside temperature. Lately it has been warmer than 70 degress and humid. So, I'm assuming that the outside temperature affected the paint to the point that it couldn't dry properly the way it should've.

Any similar experiences? If so, any tips on how to remove the paint and re-do it all over again? I'm slowly peeling a little off at a time, but I don't want to puncture any holes in the new armpads.

Thanks for any responses for this embarrased newbie,
Aaron

[JimShine]

I have had nothing but great results with SEM products, until last fall when I attempted to dye new armrests. With all the prep work and the use of the vinyl prep, it still comes off. I cleaned them down with lacquer thinner (which works great), but it still peels. I swear there is a compatibility problem there.

[RogerDodger]

I've always heard that you need to lightly dust each coat especially the first coat.

[bill440rt]

I'm not sure which repro armrest pads you got, but if they're anything like the repro dash pads they are NON-DYE-ABLE.
The dash pads are just molded uncovered urethane. Take a good close up look at those armrests. Are they covered in vinyl like the originals?? I thought some of the repro armrests are just molded urethane, not covered in vinyl. I sent a dash pad I ordered back. It was a piece of crap, full of air bubbles.

[Captain D]

Thanks guys for the responses,

Yeah, I was shocked to see it peel off as well! I'll try "VERY" light coats, allowing adequate time for each light coat to dry and repeat the light coats..even if it takes several days for the pads to be finished. I dunno if it'll work, but I'll try it.

I was wondering...

If I apply a primer on the armrest pads, say Rust-o-Leum Primer for an example, then put the SEM Color-Coat on top do you feel that the paint itself may have a better chance of staying on?

Thank you again for any replies,
Aaron

bill440rt - We must have been writing at the same time...these repros are advertised as vinyl. But, I agree it'll suck if I cannot dye these pads. What do you think about applying a primer on first (after I clean these up with the lacquer thinner, ect.) before the SEM's paint? Again, I dunno if it'll really work or not, it was just an idea.

p.s - This situation has got me thinking about my dash and seat covers. My dash is original and in great shape, no cracks/splits, ect. Has anyone had any problems using the SEM's Color-Coat on their original dash? With vinyl seat covers??

Thank you again,
Aaron

[bill440rt]

I wouldn't use straight Rust-oleum primer on vinyl. SEM also makes a flexible parts primer, it will flex with the vinyl. I have to dye the rear upper door panels on my '69 from black to white.     I may use that primer as a first coat so I'm not trying to hide black vinyl with white dye.

Capt'n, you'd notice right away if those pads weren't covered in vinyl. Before you waste anymore of your time & materials, why don't you call the supplier where you bought them from & ask them if they are dye-able?

The SEM dye should work no problem on your original dash pad or seat covers. Just make sure they are clean & totally clear from any silicones, vinyl dressings, etc.

[JimShine]

I dust coated them. It made no difference. They may be urethane!

I know from experience when you dye even the factory items, the molded stuff like the armrests and dash pads do not wear as well as the vinyl items like seatcovers and door panels. I always chaulked it up to the molded stuff simply being touched more often. However, the old items hold the dye 10 times better than those new armrests.

[Mike DC]

 

However, the old items hold the dye 10 times better than those new armrests.

That's interesting.
Maybe the new stuff is cheaper materials.

They also say modern vinyl/plastic is more stable than the old stuff in terms of chemicals, UV, etc.
Maybe the color adhesion loss is a side-effect of that.

 

[Captain D]

bill440rt  - I didn't know that SEMs' makes primer for flexible vinyl. I'll give it a try on my upper and lower door panels, removable dash parts, seat covers, and hopefully it'll work on the armrest pads as well....

I used the SEM's "Vinyl Prep" before applying the Color-Coat. You would think that the correct stuff to use would be this "Vinyl Prep," but actually it says that their primer is the "Sand-Free." On the website, they suggest using the "Plastic/Leather Prep" then the "Sand-free," and finally the Color-Coat. They say that the Sand-Free is the primer. This stuff is clear when sprayed. I'll give it a try, but another member here already said that he tried all of the prep with these items and it still didn't work, so I dunno if it's worth going through all of this on the armrest pads since it's too expensive. In the meantime, I'll see if there is another "primer" sold by SEM.

Thanks again everyone and if there are further info, tips, ideas, suggestions please keep them coming!
Aaron

[hemi-hampton]

I've had no problems dying armrest pads but they were older repops not newer. I'd use that primer, thats more like a Adhesion promoter. If it's cracking I may guess somebody forgot to add the flexing agent to paint possibly? LEON.

[Captain D]

One last question, does the lacquer thinner damage or weaken the threads that are on the armrest pads any?

Thanks again,
Aaron

[JimShine]

On the old ones the threads are a molded pattern. I never had a problem using lacquer thinner, but I don't submerge the thing or keep it wet any longer than needed to remove the dye or paint.

[hemi-hampton]

Laquer thinner can melt plastic & if you have grain in it distort the grain. Best to use a Rubber Bumper paint stripper. LEON.

[Captain D]

Thanks guys for the responses,

I'm unfamiliar w/ Rubber Bumper paint stripper. What is this exactly? Also, if Laquer thinner gets on your fingers/hands, can it be harmful by being absorbed through the skin?

Thanks again,
Aaron

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

I have dyed my dash pad from green to black using SEM's products about 7 years ago.  Still looks fresh.

I did my dash pads as well as my armrests and all look fresh as the day they were done.  Granted these were original pieces though

[JimShine]

Lacquer thinner is fine on this stuff so long as you do not overdo it. If photographic proof is required, give me a day and I will post pics step by step of removing dye and paint from plastic and vinyl with lacquer thinner with no damage.

Acetone and reducer is what eats this stuff for lunch. All of these chemicals are bad for you.

[nh_mopar_fan]

Hmmm, and here I am all set to use acetone to remove some old paint off some hard rear panels.

Bad idea?

[JimShine]

Yeah, it will soften the plastic too much and will likely mess up the grain if you wipe it.

[nh_mopar_fan]

I've got a can of rubber bumper paint stripper and was going to strip some  paint off the rear panels of the wife's Valiant ragtop. The panels are fiberglass. The can mentions that it shouldn't be used on all sorts of things, including fiberglass.

What do you guys think?

I have an extra panel that is pretty beat. I may test it on there to see if it damages it....