Clear coat sandpaper grind

[Nacho-RT74]

When I made the body job, the clear coat was just slightly "sandpapered" and waxed because I didn need the car quick. Now I can see the clear coat porousity. I want to get it shiny again and even more now since I'll have a car show from Sunday untill saturday next week.

Whats the sandpaper grid used on clear coat ? 600 ? 1000 ?

Also I want to remove some light scratches

[moparguy01]

i really hope you didnt wax the paint, and just buffed it out. wax + fresh paint = bad news. fresh paint needs to "breathe" anyways, if you just want to wetsand it and buff, I'd use 1500 grit. then polish it out real good.

[bill440rt]

If you're just looking to "shine it up again," you don't even have to go that rough. A skim over with 2000 or even a 3000 grit DA pad by hand with some water will do the trick.
I also like to put a few drops of soap in the water, it helps the sandpaper glide a little better.

[Nacho-RT74]

to buff it...

I have a Black & Decker grinder


is not the one of the pic, since is AN OLD ONE but still on its box. Just used 4 or 5 times. Can I use it to this ? of course I have to buy the polishing/buffing tools/implements to this grinder.

Is 1900 Watts, 6300 RPMs

Is some advice about this ? RPMs limitations or care ?

[Charger-Bodie]

thats way to fast for buffing unless you are REALLY good at feathering the trigger to keep it down to no more than about 2000 rpm

[Nacho-RT74]

dunno remember if the trigger is simple on/off or can I get complete control about RPMs triggering.

[Nacho-RT74]

checked... grinder trigger is just on/off.

I'll buy a drill kit. Found a small drill at home 1800 RPMs

[dongar69]

If it has been longer than 30 days since it was clear coated, 1000 and finer sandpaper will take you all day. And that's just
to do the hood. What I have done in the past, with older clearcoat, is start with 600 (wet with a drop of dawn) then
progress finer. Then use  multi step polishing and buffing. Multi step meaning first a coarser rubbing compound, then finer
rubbing compound, polishing compound, and finally a polishing glaze. OH! I almost forgot, remove the old wax before sanding.

[bill440rt]

If it has been longer than 30 days since it was clear coated, 1000 and finer sandpaper will take you all day. And that's just
to do the hood. What I have done in the past, with older clearcoat, is start with 600 (wet with a drop of dawn) then
progress finer. Then use  multi step polishing and buffing. Multi step meaning first a coarser rubbing compound, then finer
rubbing compound, polishing compound, and finally a polishing glaze. OH! I almost forgot, remove the old wax before sanding.

This actually really depends on the brand of clear on the car. I waited THREE MONTHS before I sanded & buffed my car, & it buffed out like butter. And, it was PPG polyurethane.
Sometimes, I've found it's actually easier if the paint cures for a while rather than doing it right away. Plus, there is less "die back."

600 is way too coarse to use, especially on a car that has been sanded already. Of course, everyone has their own techniques, I am only expressing my opinion. Do whatever works best for you. But, if you sand thru using 600, you're F'd. 

[Silver R/T]

with 600 grit you'll put very deep scratches and then you'll be there all day trying to smooth them out and when your clear sands through to base (depending how many coats of clear you put on there) you're screwed
I usually wet sand with 1200-1500, cut and buff it and finish it off by hand with some detailing polish.

[BlueSS454]

I used 1500, then 2000 on my 69 that I did with DuPont Chromaclear 7900S.  I cut and buffed it 48 hours after I painted it, rubbed out like a champ.  I decided I wanted to wet block a few spots on my Cutlass that I shot 2 years ago.  DId the same thing, 1500 then 2000, and it rubbed out just fine.  You need a variable speed buffer to do your compounding.  That grinder will F up the finish big time.

[dongar69]

If it has been longer than 30 days since it was clear coated, 1000 and finer sandpaper will take you all day. And that's just
to do the hood. What I have done in the past, with older clearcoat, is start with 600 (wet with a drop of dawn) then
progress finer. Then use  multi step polishing and buffing. Multi step meaning first a coarser rubbing compound, then finer
rubbing compound, polishing compound, and finally a polishing glaze. OH! I almost forgot, remove the old wax before sanding.

This actually really depends on the brand of clear on the car. I waited THREE MONTHS before I sanded & buffed my car, & it buffed out like butter. And, it was PPG polyurethane.
Sometimes, I've found it's actually easier if the paint cures for a while rather than doing it right away. Plus, there is less "die back."

600 is way too coarse to use, especially on a car that has been sanded already. Of course, everyone has their own techniques, I am only expressing my opinion. Do whatever works best for you. But, if you sand thru using 600, you're F'd. 

This is true. I forget what clear I used as this was several years ago. But, I had to start out with the 600 because sanding the clear was like sanding concrete. I did start with 1500 but
it did pretty much nothing. Like I said, it was over 30 days old. Actually, I think it was more like 3 months when I got to it.  I'm sure, no, I KNOW, that clears have come a long way since
then. I probably would not use 600 at all now. but you could. A lot more work or reclearing would be involved.

[hemi-hampton]

I've sanded clears 6 months later that where still easy to rub & others clears 1 & 2 weeks later that were hard as a brick. I did a Imron clear on a custom flame painted truck. Was suppose to come back after the weekend after it had new custom bed installed. Took 2 weeks to come back & 1000 grit did nothing to the orange peel. 5 minutes of sanding in one spot & still full of orange peel barely touched. Hard as a rock. So, Depends on the Clear. LEON.

[The70RT]

WOW. Lot opinions here. I would be scared as hell trying to touch up an older job