Just bought a 73 charger SE need some advice

[AmadeusCharger500]

I thought the car was in nice condition and all it needed was exhaust, brakes.
Body is very nice, but.
The guys at my garage had it on a lift and said there is a crack in the k-member that won't pass.
The car has single exhaust with manifolds.
So I have 2 initial questions. How hard is it to replace K-Member?
Should I have them try to weld the k-member or should I replace it(looks to me like taking apart the front end suspension and lifting the engine and steering box)
Car is a 400 with 8 1/4 rear. Should I have them put shop dual exhaust on or just wait and do it right myself with headers and mandrel bent stuff.

[moparguy01]

id avoid headers unless your running a full out race car. its really just not worth it.especially on these cars, they really suck. I took mine off and tossed them in the dumpster. i didnt even want to try to sell them.

replacing the k member is a pain, but not too hard. I'd try to have it welded then grind it smooth and spray it black.

[pettyfan43]

The flip side is that a K-member is not that tough to find. Find a Cordoba, Magnum or late model Charger (the one that looks like a Cordoba) or if possible a 73-74 Charger/Satellite but they DO have to be a big block car! Unlike other Mopars that use a common V8 K-member the late b-bodies use specific ones. A 400 won't work on a 318 K-member without severe alterations and then the tranny mount will be in the wrong place. I've been there done that on this swap a couple times.

Also there are rubber isolators where the K-Member meets the framerail, get either new polyurethane bushings OR if you can find them, the metal Mopar replacements meant for police cars. I put those on my 73 and it made a HUGE difference in the way the car drives. After over 30 years of wear, the rubber mounts deteriorate and the k-member tends to move around a little independent of the Car itself when driving. It makes a BIG difference in the car.

[daytona71]

Nice car. I own one too
Is it a 2bbl? The price of gas these days, a 2 bbl makes sense. I have a factory Thermo-quad 4bbl, and it sucks gas. It also needs the dual exhaust to get the spent gases out =more horsepower. Hope you find a good k member, or get the crack welded.
Post pictures when you get around to it

[AmadeusCharger500]

Is the k-member the same basic design as the same year 318, but with a different position for the motor mounts? The only reason I ask that is I am staring at my 74 sattellite and I see the rubber isolators and such. Am I right about what needs to be done to remove it?
-remove mount bolts and raise engine
-remove torsion bars.
-remove sway bar
-idler arm
-power steering pump
-Struts?
Is there anything else, and or can I avoid removing some of these things?

I guess welding it can be done with it still on the car?

Its a 4 barrel.

[Charger1973]

The 318 K frame you have will be identical besides the position of the motor mounts.  Im about to change mine out as well because the guy who had the car before me changed the motor and didnt know enough to change the K frame too.  Luckily I have one in another BB car I can swap in.  Im curious to get underneath and see how he rigged it in there.  I will be taking pictures too.  Hopefully in the next month or so I will get a chance to swap mine out. 

[RD]

instead of swapping k frames in regards to the SB to BB conversion, just get the motor mount swap kit... a lot easier if you ask me.

I agree with moparguy01, just weld up the k member, grind it smooth and repaint it.

[Charger1973]

instead of swapping k frames in regards to the SB to BB conversion, just get the motor mount swap kit... a lot easier if you ask me.

It would be easier, but since I have a couple BB k frames anyway it makes more sense to me to just use the right part.  Plus its cheaper. 

[Nacho-RT74]

you don't need to remove sway bar, since will come with K member. You need:

-raise engine.
-remove T bars.
-loose steering box from shaft and pump.
-unplugg brake lines
-LOOSE  UPPER CONTROL ARM PLATES from K member. Control arm is attached to this plate attached to K member. Control arm is above the frame rail so you need loose the plate ( 4 5/8" bolts" ).

Then K member will come off completely assemblied ( sway bar, steering links with iddler arm etc... ) and you will be able to interchange parts between K members outside the car. Is more comfortably.

[Nacho-RT74]

instead of swapping k frames in regards to the SB to BB conversion, just get the motor mount swap kit... a lot easier if you ask me.

I agree with moparguy01, just weld up the k member, grind it smooth and repaint it.

If I have available a K member ( no matter if free or not ) I will preffer ALLWAYS make the change instead the engine mounts adaptors

and I'm agree also with moparguy01 IF the area to weld is not a big one or is a critical area. Where exactly is broken ?

[AmadeusCharger500]

one of the areas holding the rear bushing is totally gone. The other side was "fixed" and the bushing is underneath a metal plate instead of between the crossmember and the frame. There are small cracks in the areas where the struts go through. All in all it appears I have to replace it.
So now.
What is the easiest way to go about getting another. I know of a 73 charger in a local yard but it is a pull it yourself yard. I don't look forward to lugging all the stuff in to pull it from there.

[Nacho-RT74]

remove it as stated and then get it completely dissasemblied out of the car... is REALLY THE COMFORTABLY way.

Between blocks, only STOCK difference on SUSPENSION is the Sway bar. Just in case you want a spare piece