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What is this going to cost (your best guess)?

Started by Harlow, May 25, 2007, 12:38:41 AM

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mikepmcs

Scott
That looks sweet!!!  You're on your way.

My cam is an engle grind k56 i'll advance it to 106* as Ron has instructed and it should give me the right power now that my 383 should have.  It goes in next saturday. was supposed to go in 2 thursdays ago but the rain halted that.  Since I cut my finger I really can't wrench like I want to so I traded some stuff to my buddy(local mopar freak) and him and I will do it in a week at his shop(parks performance in winthrop maine)

keep those pics coming. maybe take the wheel molding off to get a better look and then you could straighten the molding up as well, but it actually looks like it's almost right there now. :o

v/r
Mike
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

hemi-hampton

You can probably get to 1/4 from inside or behind, Just open trunk & take a look. I have pry bars, body hammers ect, but if you dont have these a Rubber Malat or smack from 2x4 from behind will help. Keep going on Fender, If got got access behind fender push more out from there. LEON.

TUFCAT

WOW!!! Good work. You'll make a fine young Jedi.

Harlow

alright guys, heres a few more pictures after working on it a bit more. I put the chrome back on, but it still needs to be pulled out a little bit more near the bottom and there are some small issues near the start of the wheel opening. I'll if I can't work them out with a hammer and a piece of a 2x4.






mikepmcs

be careful if you decide to go behind a panel and start banging.  My buddy Jason says that is a no no.  If you have no choice just be careful you don't go beyond straight and create a lump to the bad(outward) if you know what I mean. 
looking good so far!
v/r
Mike
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

Todd Wilson

You are doing good. Now get in the trunk and push that other one out!

:icon_smile_tongue:


Todd

Charger-Bodie

Quote from: mikepmcs on May 26, 2007, 07:54:56 PM
be careful if you decide to go behind a panel and start banging.  My buddy Jason says that is a no no.  If you have no choice just be careful you don't go beyond straight and create a lump to the bad(outward) if you know what I mean. 
looking good so far!
v/r
Mike

mikr its ok to tap it from the back if you use the same technique you would with a nail gun , slow and easy!

............now Harlow work that wheel lip out some more!!
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

Harlow

For the wheels lip should I just use a hammer and a block or something?

Charger-Bodie

Quote from: Harlow on May 26, 2007, 08:24:19 PM
For the wheels lip should I just use a hammer and a block or something?
that sould work get that molding off of there first thou , also id take the molding off the other side too so you can kinda referance that one since its not bent!
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

Ghoste

Dick Landy just used to use a baseball bat between the tire and the lip.  :D
You may want a slightly more refined technique.

Todd Wilson

Quote from: Ghoste on May 26, 2007, 08:28:00 PM
Dick Landy just used to use a baseball bat between the tire and the lip.  :D
You may want a slightly more refined technique.


What ever you got that will work!!


Todd


Ghoste

True, but I'd bet old Dick was more concerned with tire clearance than a correct contour.  :icon_smile_big:
Now I just wish I could find that pic of him doing the re-radius of the wheel opening with the bat.

TUFCAT

Looks like you just saved yourself a bunch of money bro! Good work.  :yesnod: :yesnod: :yesnod: :yesnod:

Harlow

Alright guys, I haven't started working on that lip yet. How should I go about doing it? I also took some pictures of the damage to the pass. quarter, I want to see what you guys think about that one and how I should go about starting it. Thanks for all the help so far!

- Scott

Inside of the trunk:


Outside:


Heres the damage to the lip:



mikepmcs

Scott
looks good.  I really think you should get one of these for that quarter and start at the front of the dent on the quarter that is smaller and work your way back. Use the flat body hammer to straighten any high spots while you have pressure on the slide hammer.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/H-S-Uni-Spotter-Pin-Welder-Kit-Factory-Sealed_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43996QQihZ009QQitemZ190069522140QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/H-S-5500-STUD-WELDER-UNI-SPOTTER-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ63702QQihZ014QQitemZ330125369627QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

I know it's a little bit of money but money well spent IMO.

v/r
Mike
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

Todd Wilson

Quote from: mikepmcs on May 28, 2007, 02:22:47 PM
Scott
looks good.  I really think you should get one of these for that quarter and start at the front of the dent on the quarter that is smaller and work your way back. Use the flat body hammer to straighten any high spots while you have pressure on the slide hammer.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/H-S-Uni-Spotter-Pin-Welder-Kit-Factory-Sealed_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43996QQihZ009QQitemZ190069522140QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/H-S-5500-STUD-WELDER-UNI-SPOTTER-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ63702QQihZ014QQitemZ330125369627QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

I know it's a little bit of money but money well spent IMO.

v/r
Mike

I wouldnt use a stud gun on that dent on the rear 1/4.   You can get to behind that dent. I would push it out from the trunk and then hammer and dolly until you get it as straight as you can. Probably have a perimeter around the dent that is high. If it oil cans in and out on you I would get someone to hold the dent out and then lightly tap from the outside on the edge of the dent in to get it to say out.  Then worry about hammer and dolly the small stuff to get as straight as you can. I think you may find once you get that big portion to start to come out it will pop back into place pretty good.

Right now I think you can probably get that 1/4 to look fairly good and then when its time to strip the car and repaint it then you may want to do some more work on it and maybe some filler. I am under the assumption that we are learning here and want to get the car to look as good as we can now and worry about paint later?!?!

Todd

Harlow

todd, I'm going to try and get the car in for paint in the next few months. I was hoping to do what I can for now without having to strip the car etc... when I find a shop that wants to paint it, I will strip the car and do the finishing touches. Do you guys think I definitely need a hammer/dolly set now? Do you guys all suggest the eastwood set?

- Scott

hemi-hampton

I agree with Todd, Get it from behind. The stud gun I usually use when I dont have access or easy access from behind.. You have easy access to the back off this 1/4. Mike, I have a Question, How many years have you been doing Body work or paint? A legitimate question, no insult intended. LEON.

mikepmcs

Leon,

No worries, I've got thick skin. :cheers:

back yard all my life(doesn't mean I knew what I was doing), been hanging at a body shop for the last 2 years and helping the owners son(Jason) in his off time painting Harley tin.
I manage that shop now after my retirement from the Navy.

I learn quick and am just trying to help where I can and regurgitating the knowledge I have learned.  I guess everyone has different methods and I'm sure there are some better than what i'm saying as well.  I don't think I've given too bad of info yet..when i do you guys are quick to correct which is welcomed. :thumbs:

v/r
Mike
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

Mean 318

That car looks damn nice Harlow! Way to go!

gordo1968charger

sometimes its just better to get your BALLS OUT and do it yourself,well done.
68 charger+4 kids=2 jobs

jaak

I tend to agree with 1hot68 on this subject, that fender is totally repairable and you've done a good job so far.

My Pass fender on my charger was like that not as bent but similar.  I was looking around on ebay etc, looking for a replacement, I guess because of my laziness  :icon_smile_big:, I bought a new hammer and dolly kit and went to work, its almost perfect now, just needs a skim coat to finish.  Someone earlier mentioned Stevens Performance, I live 10 minutes away from him,  just for the heck ot it I called, a fender would cost me 800 bucks, so 800 bucks or a few hours of my time?????? Thats a no brainer, thats 800 bucks that can go elsewhere on my project. One more note I never buy anything from Steven's, his prices are way to high and he's an a**hole to boot.


Jason

hemi-hampton

Yeah, He buys up all the old Mopars out of every corn field in Alabama for $50 for whole entire car then wants $800 for a fender. To much for me. LATER :Twocents:

terrible one

I would get into the trunk and push it out with my shoe, then go from there with a hammer and dolley.