How well does a 3000 stall converter work on the highway?

[JR]

I'm about to order all my engine and tranny stuff for my 70, and the general reccomendation with this 500 stroker engine seems to be a 530-560 lift cam, and a 3000 stall. My question is: My car will keep the 3.23 gears until I add on a Gear Vendors. I'm planning on highway driving to be the majority of my driving time. If the engine runs 3000 rpm at 70 mph, wont this cause some kind of slippage and burn something up? This is over my head and I could use some advice here.

Thanks.

[deputycrawford]

     You might not need that much stall. I have a 383 with a .575 lift cam and a 4:10 gear. I only run a 9 1/2 inch 3500 stall. If you want to run that much stall, make sure the cam likes it. Also stay with a 10 inch converter with a 3000 stall speed. With the right stall converter, you will leave traffice lights and such at around 1800 to 2000 rpms. The car will only flash to 3000 rpms with heavy throttle. You will never know the difference with the right stall.
     A 500 inch stroked 440 with that small a cam could most likely use a stock converter. Check with the cam company to finalize your plans but don't worry about trans slippage. Just make sure you run a cooler with the stall anyway. Stop and go traffice in the heat of the day might heat things up just a bit. Mine has never been over 180 degrees even after multiple launches at the track but I still run a cooler and a trans temp guage.  You will be fine if you run an after market converter.

[471_Magnum]

Definitely run an auxilary cooler, especially if/when you install the Gear Vendors.

As stated previously, with 500 ci, I think you'll find 3000 stall is more than enough on the street. You'll be blowing the tires off effortlessly.

Now if you are planning to race with slicks, that's another story...

[firefighter3931]

As mentioned above ; use a good cooler (B&M stacked plate) and a deep pan and you will be fine. 



Ron

[JR]

If I don't need that much stall that's fine, I'll step down. Would a 25-2800 stall be better suited here?
I will be running an aftermarket aluminum radiatior with the add on tranny cooler for sure, but what will go wrong if I do any racing with slicks?

I don't intend on any serious racing, but I want my car to hold up if I ever got the urge.

[firefighter3931]

The "right" stall speed is largely dependant on the engine's powerband. The cam profile will determine where the engine starts making power. Without knowing all the cam specs it's a shot in the dark as far as converter selection is concerned.

Converters respond to engine torque....the more torque ; the higher the stall. A 2500 stall behind a 440 will be a 3000 stall behind a 500ci stroker.


Ron

[is_it_EVER_done?]

JR:  Though you didn't say what the engines stroke, heads, manifold, carb, exhaust system, etc. is, I'm going to guess that you will be building around 600 ft. lbs. of torque at 3000 RPM or even less, with such a small cam and average performance upgrades to the other engine components.

If so, a high stall converter will not only be useless, but will be a hindrance as far as traction goes on the street w/street tires. Even at the track with slicks that fit the stock wheel wells, you will run into traction problems.

The second most common problem I see with stroker builds (street) is a too high stall of converter. Plus unless you order a custom unit by talking to the converter manufacturer and explain exactly what your build is, car weight, gears, etc., a converter rated at 3000 that was designed for a stock engine, will most likely stall about 600 to 800 RPM higher with the torque of a stroker.

Since (for who knows what reason) The majority of street oriented stroked builds also employ higher stall converters, they can put on a dazzling display of tire smoke but are ridiculously easy prey through a stoplight for even a ricer.

A stock converter will probably be more that enough for what you want, but keep in mind that stock converters were never designed for the torque that a stroker puts out, so if you lean on one hard enough/long enough, it will fail or balloon. This probably won't be a problem on the street with even spirited driving, but can be serious if you plan on running round after round at the track.

Since you plan on driving mostly on the highway, you will also lose up to a couple miles to the gallon with a high stall converter. Since I drive all my cars primarily on the highway, this is a big deal (to me anyway).

If you haven't purchased your parts yet, I will offer this suggestion. Look into the new Keisler automatic conversion. It's not cheap, but neither is what you will spend with you present plan after you factor in your trans rebuild (and any upgrades), purchase of a Gear Vendors unit, shortening your driveshaft/new U-joints, new rear gears/setup, Torque converter cost, SFI flex plate, new speedometer cable and housing (stock one is to short), and all the other (little) projects that come with making it all work well.

Plus you can save money by skipping the roller cam as rollers on the highway with mileage have proven catastrophic (to me), plus such a small roller cam offers no real performance advantage. You can use a larger flat tappet solid (or even a hydraulic) - make just as much power - and have zero reliability problems, plus save $600+ bucks.

An excellent converter designed for your specifics and a 727 trans will set you back about $600, maybe more.

The Keisler (brand new but modified GM transmission) has a much lower first gear, and a much higher OD gear. Comes with a new lock up converter of your choice, flex plate, drive shaft/u-joints, and all the other items required for installation. Plus a semblance of a warrantee. I haven't done the auto conversion yet, but will by the end of this summer, but the auto gear ratios are similar to the TKO-600 5 speed, and I can't begin to tell you how great that is if you really drive your car much.

This way may not be best for you, I only offer it as a potential suggestion since I found it to be more than cost effective for me, but even if you reject the possibility of the Keisler, go easy on the converter stall for your stroker, and as others have said, use a good plate type cooler.

[JR]

I havent ordered any drivetrain parts yet. I want to know exacly what is right for me before I do.

I know this engine will have:

440 source 500 stroker crank, rods, pistons,
30 over block
84 cc edelbrock heads
70 model six pack cast iron intake with vacuum operated outboards
I've been told to deck the head to .005 to the pistons
tti headers

I'd love to get the overdrive trans, but right now I'm on a tight budget. I really need to get the car running and mostly done, as it's getting to be a liability pushing around a 3500 pound lawn ornament that screams steal/vandalize me at work. I know it's a pain to go back and swap after the car is built, but I don't really have a choice now.

What puzzles me is that the engine had a stock converter in it when I got it. And back then, it was just a .30 over, flat top, cast crank, truck engine with 346 heads. The six pack and 509 cam were the only performance additions. But back then, it absoutley would not idle in gear at all. At stop lights, you had to two foot it. Or it would either lurch, or die. Why did it do that before?

Thanks for the help guys.

[deputycrawford]

     If you haven't purchased much of your hardware then I think others will agree, research your complete package before you buy.
I meant the engine;  although other interpretations are fun    Call the company of your rotational assembly and tell them your entire plan. Then call a cam manufacturer, Engle, and tell them your entire plan. Then call a converter company, Dynamic, and tell them everything.
     Then place vinyl seats in your car. A towel for the seat. And save for the divorce. You will wet your self and become addicted. You will be a mess. A correctly built 500 cuber will ruin you for all other cars.