Anyone here know about electric motor repair??

[Telvis]

Most of you know I have a small swimming pool business. Over the last few years I have been accumulating a lot of returned swimming pool pumps. About 100 now. All of them are about a year or so old but for various reasons failed to work properly. I have been rebuilding them a few at a time. I repaint them and sell them on Ebay. They have various problems which are usually minor. Some are bearings and some are seals. Those are easy to fix.  I am runnung into some that are just humming when they are turned on. There are no obstructions and the impeller spins freely. The bearings are fine. These are split phase pump motors. There's no run capacitor. There are no grounds on the windings and the armature looks fine too. The voltage coming in is fine. I have been avoiding these pumps because they perplex me. Bad bearings and switches are easy. Anyone have any ideas? I figure someone here knows about them.

[last426]

In a job a long, long time ago as I was just feeling my way around mechanics I spent about 12 years at a large linen supply plant as a mechanic.  We had hundreds of electric motors and had to always repair them.  A major issue that we had when they just sat there and hummed was the motor needed to be rewound and we would send them to an electric motor shop that would rewind the (is it the armature?  maybe not but you know what I mean).  As motors got cheaper with bushings and stuff, it just didn't make sense for us to have them rewound and we threw them away and just got new, cheap ones -- I hope that you can salvage yours as it seems like quite a waste. Kim

[Telvis]

Even if it's worse case scenario and the windings are bad I can salvage the rest of the parts for other rebuilds. I am also looking at a small spring loaded switch located at the rear of the armerature. It looks to be adjustable. I will try fiddling with it tomorrow. If the switch isn't the problem it's got to be the winding. Everything else is working fine.

[Charger4404spd]

You can also check continuity on the commutator ribs. Check them 180 degrees apart. For example, place one lead at the 12 oclock position and the other lead at 6 oclock. Go all they way around the commutator being sure to stay 180 degrees apart with the leads. All should have continuity.

Also check for continuity between the fields and the case. Should not be.

Could also be an OPEN in the fields. Personally, I'd junk the ones that needed to go to a motor shop, unless of course you have a buddy that repairs them.