Anybody have an idea what's going on? Transmission problems!

[Magnumcharger]

I have a 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4.
It has approximately 120,000 miles on it.
It has two problems with the transmission, that seem to be getting worse as time goes on:
1. It won't shift into 3rd gear at anything less than 3500 RPM, and even then it'll stay in second until I "gun" the engine,(Edit: It also takes letting off the gas completely to allow it to shift, otherwise it'll stay in second gear) then it'll shift, and happily loaf along in high, then O/D with no problem.
2. When the transmission is cold, it goes into reverse immediately. After running for only a few minutes, I can put it into reverse, and it won't do anything until I give it some gas...then BANG! It finally goes into reverse, but I'm sure the u-joints are going to fail soon.

Anybody have an idea what's going on?

[John_Kunkel]

The front clutch is shared by both Reverse and 3rd gear.

In the nineties they improperly machined a lot of front clutch drums and the inner piston seal will leak with age, the aftermarket offers  seals to correct this problem but installation requires removal/disassembly of the trans.

If removal isn't convenient right now, you can try an additive like Trans-X, it might rejuvenate the seal well enough to squeeze a few more miles from it.

[Magnumcharger]

So the front clutch is the culprit.
Without sounding ungrateful, are you absolutely certain? Is there a reference (manual) or otherwise I can go to to verify this?

And thank you for responding to my query!

[John_Kunkel]

The fact that both gears share the front clutch is not in dispute, that's simply the way it works.

The problems in both gears are textbook seal leakage problems. To elaborate, your balky 3rd gear is caused by a lack of apply pressure (caused by leaking seals) to the clutch; easing up on the throttle will allow the clutch to engage at the lower pressure. When the fluid is cold it is thicker, and the hardened/shrunk seal will leak less when cold; once the fluid warms up and thins out the leakage will increase. In Reverse the fluid line pressure is about 3 times higher (260 psi versus 80 psi) than in the forward gears so the added pressure in Reverse will make the seal leakage less noticeable when cold.

Given the known problem with the drum seal it's a sure bet the seal is the problem. Even earlier drums with no machining errors will exhibit your exact same symptoms when the seals harden with age. The fact that the aftermarket offers a "revised" seal also testifies to the known problem with the seal/drum.

[deputycrawford]

     Hey Magnumcharger, can you tell you have an answer from a professional transmission rebuilder. You will not receive a better answer. You have experts here. Do not fear; you are pointed in the right direction.

[Magnumcharger]

Well, that's the answer I was looking for.
So again, I must say thank-you very much!

Now the next question:
How difficult a job is it to actually replace this seal? And is it necessary to replace the clutch drum as well?
I've done some minor transmission repair in the distant past, and was an aero-engine mechanic for many years, so I'm not afraid to dig right in...

[Plumcrazy]

Now the next question:
How difficult a job is it to actually replace this seal? And is it necessary to replace the clutch drum as well?

With 120K on the odometer it makes no sense to R&R the transmission to replace one seal.  At the very least you need to replace all the seals/gaskets.  A complete overhaul with all new friction materials and a reman converter makes the most sense if you plan on keeping the vehicle for a while.

[Magnumcharger]

Now I know what's wrong with my transmission, it's time to fix it.
I'm buying a transmission jack this weekend and will be endeavoring to pull it as soon as I can wedge my truck into my single car garage.

I agree that it's probably a good time to do a complete R+R on the entire transmission, plus it's probably a good time to consider changing over to synthetic fluid.

So the next question(s):
1. What fluid you you suggest I use in the transmission?
2. Would the seal on the front clutch drum have any negative impact on the performance of the transfer case? (It's being a jerk too.)
3. What technical publication could you recommend I use as a guide for overhauling my transmission?
4. Is there a p/n for a "package" of seals, friction materials and gaskets?

Thanks again.

[John_Kunkel]

1) The original fluid was ATF+3, Mopar now recommends ATF+4. ATF+4 is reportedly synthetic.
2) No.
3)The Factory Service Manual
4)Many sources offer complete or near complete kits, try:  http://www.bulkpart.com

This transmission is not a good candidate for overhaul by a novice, not saying it can't be done but there are some special tools needed and a clean roomy work space is a must.

[Plumcrazy]

1) The original fluid was ATF+3, Mopar not recommends ATF+4. ATF+4 is reportedly synthetic.

John, Chrysler has discontinued ATF+3.   Everything that used that now gets ATF+4.  However you still follow the original fluid change recommendations.

[John_Kunkel]

Mopar might have discontinued ATF+3 but all of the normal refiners (Valvoline, Pennzoil, etc.) still offer it.