News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Lower Control Arm / Torsion Bar Removal - proper order

Started by Corellian Corvette, May 14, 2007, 05:35:53 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Corellian Corvette

I've searched several posts on this, and everyone is in a slightly different situation so I apologize for asking again.

What is the proper order/procedure for removing the Lower Control arm and Torsion Bars? If anyone has pics that would be helpful (I'm a visual guy)

I have removed all of the tie rods, sway bars, and all of the upper suspension (Shocks, upper control arm, spindles).

All I'm left with now are 3 parts that I can see.

1. The lower control arm with some sort of bolt sticking up through it.
2. A very thin bar that goes from the front of the LCA to a bracket near the lower radiator (not the torsion bar I'm not sure what it's called)
3. The torsion bar.

I'm taking everything out, I just need to know the right order so I don't kill myself or break something in the process.

Also - is the Torsion bar actually holding the lower control arm to the K-member? I can't quite see (a lot of grease and junk) how the LCA is actually held in place.

Other than LCA ball joints, what else needs to be replaced when I remove the LCA?

Thanks!

BigBlackDodge

Quote from: Corellian Corvette on May 14, 2007, 05:35:53 PM
I've searched several posts on this, and everyone is in a slightly different situation so I apologize for asking again.

What is the proper order/procedure for removing the Lower Control arm and Torsion Bars? If anyone has pics that would be helpful (I'm a visual guy)

I have removed all of the tie rods, sway bars, and all of the upper suspension (Shocks, upper control arm, spindles).

All I'm left with now are 3 parts that I can see.

1. The lower control arm with some sort of bolt sticking up through it.
2. A very thin bar that goes from the front of the LCA to a bracket near the lower radiator (not the torsion bar I'm not sure what it's called)
3. The torsion bar.

I'm taking everything out, I just need to know the right order so I don't kill myself or break something in the process.

Also - is the Torsion bar actually holding the lower control arm to the K-member? I can't quite see (a lot of grease and junk) how the LCA is actually held in place.

Other than LCA ball joints, what else needs to be replaced when I remove the LCA?

Thanks!

1. Thats the adjusting nut. Turn this until there is no load from the torsion bar........you should be able to jiggle quit easily with your hand when it's loose enough. Also remove the 'shaft' nut that hold the shaft in the lower arm, you'll see the nut on the front side of the k-frame. The shaft passes through the frame.........the whole arm pivots on this shaft. It's very typical to see the bushing for this shaft in terrible shape.

2. That would be the strut..........remove the nut at the lower arm and the the nut at the k-frame.........replace these bushings also.

3. Remove the lock rings (with pliers) at the rear of the bars. You may have to clean out the holes to see them........don't lose them. Then slide the bar towards the rear of the car, if your've living right they'll come out without much fuss. If they don't be prepared for a long day.......and it's okay to cry at times! :icon_smile_blackeye:

The torsion bar does actually hold the lower arm in place, which itself is held in by the lock rings. Once the t-bar is out of the way the lower arm will slide backwards, pivot shaft and all.


Replace all bushings...........these are usually shot and thats what makes the car ride/handle like crap. Also check for cracks on the arms and where the shaft slide through the k-frame! One of my arms was severly cracked! :o

It's a fairly straight forward operation, you can do it. Take your time and be careful when dealing with suspension stuff......make sure the car is well supported!

Hope this helps!


BBD

Rack

Quote3. Remove the lock rings (with pliers) at the rear of the bars. You may have to clean out the holes to see them........don't lose them. Then slide the bar towards the rear of the car, if your've living right they'll come out without much fuss. If they don't be prepared for a long day.......and it's okay to cry at times!

:brickwall:


I may have lost mine (you're referring to the clips, right?), what kind of hassle am I in for in finding replacements?

Corellian Corvette

Thanks much for tha!! That's really super helpful. I would have spend forever trying to figure out the right order!

I did buy a torsion bar removal tool so If it's finicky I can get out ok :)

BigBlackDodge

Quote from: Rack on May 14, 2007, 11:01:05 PM
Quote3. Remove the lock rings (with pliers) at the rear of the bars. You may have to clean out the holes to see them........don't lose them. Then slide the bar towards the rear of the car, if your've living right they'll come out without much fuss. If they don't be prepared for a long day.......and it's okay to cry at times!

:brickwall:


I may have lost mine (you're referring to the clips, right?), what kind of hassle am I in for in finding replacements?

They are available from year one..............  http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/fbshopmain2.asp?cat=1

They're just small is all..................easy to lose sometimes. :-\


BBD

ACUDANUT

 Do you have to have this tool to get the torsion bar out?.  What does it look like and how does it work ?.

runningman

Someone made one out of a piece of angle iron and a couple of u-bolts pretty cheap....

Rolling_Thunder

honestly you should use aluminum instead of angle steel - you dont want to scratch the T-bars...   supposevely it effects the strength of the bar...   

BTW - I use 1 1/4" (if i remember correctly) snap rings instead of the factory clips...    :2thumbs:
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

mauve66

if your replacing the torsion bars just clamp a pair of vise grips on them and hit with a hammer instead of spending money on a 1 time tool, mine came out pretty easyily
Robert-Las Vegas, NV

NEEDS:
body work
paint - mauve and black
powder coat wheels - mauve and black
total wiring
PW
PDLKS
Tint
trim
engine - 520/540, eddy heads, 6pak
alignment

Rolling_Thunder

What has worked for me in the bast is once you back off the adjusters to there is no tension I get a big pry bar and move the adjustment lever back and forth - this unseats the torsion bar usually and I can usually just slide them out...    works 90% of the time if you're lucky...     
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

Back N Black

Quote from: mauve66 on March 23, 2009, 11:42:39 PM
if your replacing the torsion bars just clamp a pair of vise grips on them and hit with a hammer instead of spending money on a 1 time tool, mine came out pretty easyily

If the vise grips slip or slide, it will case nicks in the torsion bar and then they are useless.  :Twocents:

mauve66

Quote from: Back N Black on March 24, 2009, 06:14:37 AM
Quote from: mauve66 on March 23, 2009, 11:42:39 PM
if your replacing the torsion bars just clamp a pair of vise grips on them and hit with a hammer instead of spending money on a 1 time tool, mine came out pretty easyily

If the vise grips slip or slide, it will case nicks in the torsion bar and then they are useless.  :Twocents:

thats why i said IF replacing them then you don't care about the nicks and scratches
Robert-Las Vegas, NV

NEEDS:
body work
paint - mauve and black
powder coat wheels - mauve and black
total wiring
PW
PDLKS
Tint
trim
engine - 520/540, eddy heads, 6pak
alignment