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69 rear power window removal/install

Started by moparjohn, May 22, 2007, 09:57:07 PM

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moparjohn

I need to replace my drivers side rear power window. The service manual does not cover it.  How is it done? I have done the door one and it was cake, the rear has me puzzled,  It seems the motor os attached to the regulator and I have to pull it out as one? How do you get the glass out? Do you remove the side channels? any and all help welcomed. MPJ
Happiness is having a hole in your roof!

resq302

John,

Granted, mine are manual windows but I had to take the whole guts and everything out a piece at a time.  If you want, get together with me and we can tackle that job one day at my house.  Its going on over 2 years now that I replaced all the rollers and bushings in my windows but I am sure that once I open it up, it will all come back to me.  The hardest part for me was trying to get all the windows to line up correctly and have no air/water leaks in it.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

is_it_EVER_done?

JOHN:  I don't know if you are aware or not as to how dangerous disassembling power windows are, but if not, and you successfully replaced the front motor with all your fingers (or hands) attached, you should play the lottery!

Seriously, those mechanisms are highly spring loaded and once the motor is removed, only the lift gears teeth (which are only about 1/16th inch wide) are the only thing holding everything from explosively unloading. The combonation of the lift mechanism being bolted to the inner door frame, and the motor (also bolted to the frame) but also containing the mechanism from it's outside, combine to not allow the lift gears teeth from moving side to side.

Once one of these elements are removed or loosened, only luck keeps the mechanism from becoming a nuclear powered guillotine! I doubt that it could actually sever a hand, but I bet it could a finger! It's ridiculous how much spring pressure is used in the mechanism.

I can't offer any help on what it takes to replace a rear window motor as I can't recall ever replacing a rear, but for safety, cut a length of 2X4 to act as a safety stand to hold the long arm up in case the mechanism decides to let go.

I know this all sounds silly - until you have one "slip" (nice way of saying explode with a force that makes the Big Bang look like a firecracker). After that, you'll have a new found love for crank windows, if you still have hands left to crank them.

resq302

Is that for all power windows as I have replaced motors on my dads old Chrysler LeBarron Convert. as the rear windows were known to have bad motors.  I never had that problem.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

moparjohn

I've been know to have good luck, and thanks for the words of caution.. I will proceed w/caution.  I think you mean to brace the regulator arm from comming down
Happiness is having a hole in your roof!

sean68charger

try winding the spring back up after its unwound with a screwdriver and getting the new motor in, what a challenge!!! took me 2 hours to do the passenger side
68 Charger 440 R/T<br />Burnout Bandit!!!

moparjohn

OK that's done, best of all I did not remove the regulator and guildes.  I was shown an easier way! :icon_smile_wink:
Happiness is having a hole in your roof!

resq302

Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto