Can't a the crank pulley bolt off.

[joww3]

I'm trying to remove the crank pulley so I can inspect the timing chain, but I am having trouble of removing the 1 1/4" bolt that is in the center of the crank pulley ( the engine keep turning as I try to loosen the bolt). Does anyone know a easy way to keep the crank pulley from turn while I try to loosen the bolt?  Thanks.

[RD]

joww,

1)  you do not need to remove the crank bolt to remove the crankshaft pulley, just remove the 6 bolts that fasten the pulley to the harmonic balancer.

2)  if you need the crank bolt off, go ahead and remove the tranny inspection cover, stick a pry bar or screwdriver into the flexplate and turn the crank bolt slowly until you feel the engine assembly not moving, then slowly loosen the bolt making sure not to bend your flexplate in the process.

hope that helps.

RD

[sext7366]

I have heard this approach before, but when I tried using the flexplate to stop the crank from turning, the bolt was so tight it just bent the flexplate.  On my crankshaft there was a hole in the extra material of the crank towards the rear seal, which allowed me to slide a 1/2 inch socket extension into it, then when I rotated the crank the extension would stop it by touching the edge of the block.

However I agree that it shouldn't be necessary to remove

[joww3]

thanks for the help.

[Rolling_Thunder]

mallet on a breaker bar...    worked for me

[BrianShaughnessy]

A.   air impact
B.    stick a couple of the bolts for the pulley back in and use them to wedge a pry bar against to keep the motor from turning.   

[max]

i have used a long breaker bar and placed it on the frame rail, tapped the ignition key and engaged the starter to break them loose before. this was long before i ever got an electric impact gun.

[owatajrkiam]

I'm definately puttin that one in my memory bank,I never thought of that.Glen

[TylerCharger69]

i think he means  the balancer bolt and NOT the pulley bolts....Number one....I would NOT recommend wedging something on the flywheel or flexplate!!!   You'll end up bending the flexplate, or breaking teeth off of the flywheel....that's a crapshoot.   An impact  is the way to go, but if one isn't available...the breaker bar or wrench on the frame and bumping the motor would be my solution!!!

[SeattleCharger]

  I am trying to get the steel crank out of my 72 core I bought, the motor is totally seized, from rust I guess, so the turning of motor is not the issue, the problem is the bolt is just really tight.  I have a 1 1/4 inch socket, which does not seem that tight at all on the bolt. (I have wrapped a few layers of foil around the bolt to make it tight, is this ok way to do it? ),   I have stood on the 1/2 inch socket wrench, which is fairly long, but haven't tried a longer extension, like a pipe or whatever yet, I am afraid to strip the bolt,  I have the heads off and am removing the oil pan next (drained oil already,)  to get at the crank with the motor upside down on the concrete, so I CAN put a good amount of force on the bolt, just wondering why the socket isn't a snugg fit (it is brand new and 1 1/4 size) and if the foil thing will work and not strip bolt if I really put force on it,  any ideas here to help?    The bolt right now is in great looking shape, no rounded corners at all, no rust around there.
thank you,
Nate

[tecmopar]

I don't think the foil will help at all because the socket actually only grabs a very small portion of the flats of the bolt and it would tear right into the foil. Does the bolt head look to be in good condition, not stripped or rounded over, did you try a 1 3/16 socket or something Metric, good luck.

[SeattleCharger]

  Also, am I supposed to be turning the bolt clockwise to loosen it?   

[tecmopar]

Sorry, my reply was for Seattle and you need to turn it counter-clockwise.

[SeattleCharger]

I don't think the foil will help at all because the socket actually only grabs a very small portion of the flats of the bolt and it would tear right into the foil. Does the bolt head look to be in good condition, not stripped or rounded over, did you try a 1 3/16 socket or something Metric, good luck.

The bolt right now is in great looking shape, no rounded corners at all, no rust around there.  I did try some metric, can't remember if I tried a 1 3/16 size, don't remember if the store had that size, might have tried 1 1/8 then the 1 1/4, thank you, I will see if I can find a store that has 1 3/16 before I mess up the bolt

[max]

I don't think the foil will help at all because the socket actually only grabs a very small portion of the flats of the bolt and it would tear right into the foil. Does the bolt head look to be in good condition, not stripped or rounded over, did you try a 1 3/16 socket or something Metric, good luck.

The bolt right now is in great looking shape, no rounded corners at all, no rust around there.  I did try some metric, can't remember if I tried a 1 3/16 size, don't remember if the store had that size, might have tried 1 1/8 then the 1 1/4, thank you, I will see if I can find a store that has 1 3/16 before I mess up the bolt

is the 1 1/4" socket a 6 point of 12 point?

a 6 point socket should give you a little tighter fit.

you might try going to a rental center and see if they have a high torque electric impact gun that you could rent which would be alot better then trying to use a breaker bar on an engine that is out of the car.

[SeattleCharger]

Hi, got that off, pounded on a 1 3/16 with a hammer, used a huge tail pipe, bolt is prob. history, but I just want the crank.

    Now, the pistons are all seized and I can't get the last rod bottom off of two far ends as they are near the block walls, can't turn crank, it is ready to pull out and all loose, except for being held in by rods on # 1 & 8.  and will the crank pull out of other rods with bottoms off even if the pistons don't move?    Machine shop said to maybe get a torch and cut the rods where needed between the crank and piston.

    IS THERE another way? !  help,!! 

         I got the bolts off of #8 rod now actually, but the bottom won't even pull out because of clearance to block wall.  Torching on the rod, (I have done some acetlyic/oxygen torching of iron in a contruction job once)  seems kind of risky as won't stuff be dripping down all in everywhere?  like on the crank, or the block?   I guess I have to trash the block, although it may be good to .60 to clear rust, don't know, I have another block.    If I do have to torch it should I cover the crank with something for molten drips?  I don't know.
thanks, Nate

[MOPARHOUND!]

If you favorite rusty nut stuff (Kroil, Marvel Mystery Oil, tranny fluid, diesel, kerosene, Coca-Cola (LOL, J/K) mixture etc. etc.) won't un-freeze the piston over night, then drill holes in the piston either side of the wrist pin area where the piston is thinnest, and take a chisel to the piston. 

Careful with the hammer blows if you want to salvage the block, the blows send out sonic waves that can damage the block.

I did this to a 440, but without drilling the holes first (live and learn).  I beat on the piston from the bottom side, with a long bar/chisel thingy.  Piston came out in chunks (were worn out junk anyway).  It passed magnafluxing okay, and cleaned up at .060", barely.

[SeattleCharger]

Thank you, I got that crank out of there!!    once the machine shop said to destroy the rods, I figured, hmm, I can do more now if those are wrecked.  I pounded out all the rod bolts, then hit them all with a hammer to break them free to move laterally, so then I could get the crank up slightly, to get the rod bottom off the once end, then got more slack, and got a socket around the last bolt, then some more effort and got the thing out,  !!!
  I tell ya, first time breaking down a motor, had to start with a rusty 440 BB, heh, but it was cool to see all the parts in there, instead of a mental picture of how the engine is,  talking apart the thing from a whole block,
  I still have to get the distributor out, but that should be easier than the crank I hope.