Stay with stock distributor or go aftermarket?

[Paul G]

I have a broken weight in the distributor in my 440. It is looking like a replacement weight is not available. I can get a rebuilt distributor locally for around $50, plus a curve kit. Or, I can go aftermarket.
What options do I have with aftermarket distributors?

I called FBO and talked to Don, he can send me a distributor already set up for my car based on my build for around $125. But, he is pushing me toward an FBO ignition package which has a new ECU, coil, resistor, and cap & rotor for an additional $130. He didn't like the idea that I wanted the distributor set up for a 15* initial with 36* total by 3600 rpm. He also wants to keep the vacuum advance and use manifold vacuum. I told him I didn't want to use the vacuum advance. The only plus to FBO is they are a plug in system to the factory wiring. Whats up with FBO? Are they any good?

My other options would be to go with an MSD, Mallory, Accel system or something like that. Kind of expensive seeing how it all started with needing a $10 weight.

Suggestions?

[Runner]

it sounds like you know what you want,   the new mopar performance distributors are pretty easy to set your curve with.   no welding and grinding required

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DCC%2D3690432&N=700+4294908078+4294840062+115&autoview=sku

i dont think don is real popular here,  however ive bought from him in the past and i like the guy.  but i choose not to run his ignition.

[firefighter3931]

  with Mike....run an MP distributor. The current version has a Mallory advance mechanism which is easily adjustable so you can limit the mechanical advance to whatever you want. 

Personally, i would run the stock stuff for now and if you want to upgrade go with a MSD or Crane box. With the mild build that you have it's not really needed, inmo. The multi spark boxes really help with big cams that have lots of overlap & seat timing.

With that k56 cam, 15*/36*-38* is gonna be just about perfect.....trust me 


The MP dizzy will have one medium and one heavy spring....buy the Mr Gasket spring kit and replace the heavy spring with a light one from the kit. That will bring the advance in right where you want it. 



Ron

[AmadeusCharger500]

I would go with the MSD.

I could not figure out how to run the FBO without burning through the ballast every few hundred miles.

If you want FBO, I'll sell you mine. Whole package, basically new.
Don told me to tune 15 initial and 35 total (Odd that he tells you not to do this).
He set up the distributor for that.

[HDCharger]

I agree with Ron.  I have an MSD and really like it though, never could get the MP setup to work right but it was the older version.

[Paul G]

The new MP distributor should be here soon. Last night I got the old distributor back together (Mcgyver style) and got the car running. I have the base timing at about 18* with total around 38* with mechl advance, around 42* when  vacuum advance pulls in. It ran really well. No detonation at all. I had 91 octane in it. The tank was bone dry again, I put 4 gallons of 89 octane in it and drove it to cruise night. Still no detonation even with 89 octane. Does this mean 89 octane is okay to use, or should I go back to 91 and try more timing? What will give maximum power with the best economy?

[firefighter3931]

Paul, there's no point in running more timing than 38* because it won't make any more power with the added timing. Have a look at the plugs to make sure it's not detonating.....not all  spark knock is audible. 

The 15-18/36-38 should be just about perfect for your combo, inmo.



Ron

[Paul G]

I finally got the new Mopar Performance distributer installed. I backed off on the mech'l advance plate about 1/16". Mapped out the timing.

Idle, base timing 15* to 16*
1500 rpm           same
2000 rpm          33*
2500 rpm          35*
3000 rpm          38* to 39*

it stays at 38* to 39*  from 3000 rpm on up. It was raining out so I could not go for a drive. I still have to get the spring kit and change out the larger spring. On my todo list for In the future I guess.

Do you guys think this might improve the mpg as well as performance? Before, with the old distributer the base timing was at 12* with total of 38 all in by 2000 rpm. Please tell me mpg will get better than the 7.5 I was getting     

[firefighter3931]

Please tell me mpg will get better than the 7.5 I was getting     

Keep your foot out of it and you might see some better milage ! 


Timing curve looks good Paul, nice work 




Ron

[Purple440]

Hey Ron (or anyone)- what timing would you recommend with this setup:
440ci
cam: 230/230 @.050, 480/480 lift (lunati cam at 292 advertised duration)
gears: 3.55
stall: stock (1800)

Currently I have to set my total timing below 32 or it pings when the rpms get up over 3000 in every gear.  I have a MSD box with a Mallory and Blaster coil. CR estimated 9.8:1 on '78 452's.

thx,
- Doug

[Chryco Psycho]

I woulkd set it in the 12-16 at idle with 36-38* total but you need tokill the ping at higer RPM , colder plugs could help oor better fuel , other then that you are limited to where it is set now

[firefighter3931]

I woulkd set it in the 12-16 at idle with 36-38* total but you need tokill the ping at higer RPM , colder plugs could help oor better fuel , other then that you are limited to where it is set now

The plugs could be too warm....or it could be going lean above 3000rpm which can also cause detonation. What plugs and carb are you using Doug ? How do the plugs look ? Any color on them ....white, tan , black etc...


Ron

[Purple440]

I woulkd set it in the 12-16 at idle with 36-38* total but you need tokill the ping at higer RPM , colder plugs could help oor better fuel , other then that you are limited to where it is set now

The plugs could be too warm....or it could be going lean above 3000rpm which can also cause detonation. What plugs and carb are you using Doug ? How do the plugs look ? Any color on them ....white, tan , black etc...


Ron

wow I'm a month late on this one...sry Ron.  Turns out I had a vacuum leak on the brake booster hose (Neil got caught one for me).  I agree, it must have been going lean after 3000.  The plugs got lighter near the back of the engine.  It's running better now.  I'm also mixing in some 110 with my usual 92 octane.

- Doug

[Steve P.]

Do these guys know their stuff or what??   

[firefighter3931]

wow I'm a month late on this one...sry Ron.  Turns out I had a vacuum leak on the brake booster hose (Neil got caught one for me).  I agree, it must have been going lean after 3000.  The plugs got lighter near the back of the engine.  It's running better now.  I'm also mixing in some 110 with my usual 92 octane.

- Doug

Good work Doug. 

Have you tried runnin it on just pump gas to see if it's still detonating ?



Ron

[Purple440]

Yep I tried using regular 92 and it started pinging again, but not as bad.  I know I need a compression test and I tried but our tester didn't thread into the plug hole so my dad couldn't accurately hold it in the hole while I cranked.  I'll be doing a test soon with our builder. 

Pistons are TRW Part# L2355-F30 with 452 heads.  Don't know which gasket at this point, but shouldn't I be around 9.5:1?  The ping thing is making me 

- Doug

[firefighter3931]

Pistons are TRW Part# L2355-F30 with 452 heads.  Don't know which gasket at this point, but shouldn't I be around 9.5:1?  The ping thing is making me 

- Doug

Doug,

The 2355's with a 90cc open chamber and .040 head gasket (felpro 1009) is usually in the 9.3-9.5 compression range. If the block was decked or the heads were milled then the static comp number will change. The cranking (dynamic compression) numbers will tell the story....anything over 160 psi with an open chamber iron head is borderline for pump gas. A thicker head gasket with a larger bore diameter can knock some compression out of it. Ask the shop what head gasket they used.



Ron