440 rebuild, install, doable? what am I looking at for project, (PICS) beginner

[SeattleCharger]

Hi, machine shop said core was not rebuildable, so brought home to get steel crank out of to put in in my good cleaned and disassembled not bored out yet block.   I bought the car with engine out of car and dissasembled and cleaned for rebuild.  I was missing all internal and external bolts though, so I bought a 72 steel crank core, first time pulling apart an engine, was seized, sort of a pain, but learned a lot, didn't have engine stand, didn't need it, that engine hoist is a great thing to have though, scored it for 30 bucks. 

    When the engine long block is done, they wont' paint it, so I paint it and put on chrome valve covers after?   I don't have trans to engine bolts, was gonna get my 727 rebuilt, but don't have bolts for drive shaft, the frame piece that goes under trans seems to be missing.  The wiring I have is off the core (hanging on engine hoist in pic, hard to see because of chain, and the wiring has lots of elec. tape on it, looks sort of old,
 
  When engine is done and trans is done, and I put this in the car, I am wondering what all I am looking at to get the car actually running and driving.  I know this is hard to say prob, without knowing what I have, but I am mostly missing all bolts and screws for everything.  I will need wiring?  fuel lines, battery cables, hoses, etc. etc.?  I am just feeling a little overwhelmed with all the unknowns of what I have to deal with.   What has been some people's experience with this sort of project?

[SeattleCharger]

more pics

[67_Dodge_Charger]

What did the machine shop say was wrong with the block?

  When engine is done and trans is done, and I put this in the car, I am wondering what all I am looking at to get the car actually running and driving.  I know this is hard to say prob, without knowing what I have, but I am mostly missing all bolts and screws for everything.  I will need wiring?  fuel lines, battery cables, hoses, etc. etc.?  I am just feeling a little overwhelmed with all the unknowns of what I have to deal with.  Is it worth the trouble?     What has been some people's experience with this sort of project?

Get yourself a engine stand, they can be found for around $60.  Find a good repair manual for your charger, it will allow you to study up on what needs to be done next. 

Prep the engine, on the engine stand, for paint.  The valve covers can be on when painting the engine. What valve cover are you using?  Buy some painter's tape for taping off areas you do not want to paint.  Take your time with this process, double check before you spray.

You can get new bolts from your local bolt shop or from any automotive supply.  You will need to now bolt sizes, lengths and grade. 

Wiring will depend on what you have left in the engine compartment.  Fuel line and gas tank will need to be new.  Battery cables can be bought at Yearone if you want period correct stuff.  The same thing goes for for radiator hoses and heater core hoses.  You will be able to get just about everything from the local parts store.

I am currently in the middle of rebuilding my engine for my 67.  The machine shop is a little slow in getting stuff done but I should have some news tomorrow.  It is always a good idea to have some help, like a fellow charger nut.  Someone that has mechanical ability will be able to get the engine in and follow the steps for getting the Charger started.  It takes patience, time and money.  Lots and lots of money.  Tools are the biggest hinderence, build up your tool box and buy the best tool you can afford.

Robert

[SeattleCharger]

Thanks Robert.  good luck with the '67

[MorePwr]

Hey Nathan, I've got a stand you can borrow. and some free time in the afternoons to lend a hand. I bet you we can have that thing burning rubber in a few days.

[SeattleCharger]

Hey, thanks Aaron.   When you put on your new wiring harness in your '69, would that be all the under the hood wiring basically?  from firewall to engine stuff?  or was it from underdash to firewall?  if that makes sense 

  And Robert, I haven't decided on valve covers.  I have some chrome eddy ones that came with car, but they are sort of beat unfortunately. 
    I don't know, maybe the Mopar ones with the ridge lines?  or some other kind of chrome ones.  Is it possible to mask off chrome ones when painting?  or paint before? 
   

[67_Dodge_Charger]

Painter's tape will not leave the heavy residue like masking tape.  Check your local auto paint store for tape and paper (if you want to use paper). 

Spend some money on new tins for your engine, it will look great with dent and rust free valve covers, timing cover and oil pan.  Oil pans are expensive around $150 for new that are correct for you Charger.  I ordered mopar performance polished valve covers from Jegs or Summit (I can't remember which at this time).  You can find some original tins but remember you will have to clean, straighten and paint. 

I picked up a new oil pan from a shop in Idaho, valve cover from Jeg's or Summit, and will be reusing my timing cover.

Paint your tins seperate from the engine, it will look better without paint on the gaskets.  I would tape and paper the engine without the tins.   

A new engine harness will make the engine compartment look great.     Plus it will mitigate any headaches of trying to fix or create the wiring harness. 

There are some great people on this site that are in your area that should be willing to assist, provide you have some beer on hand. 

Robert

[SeattleCharger]

  Fortunately I have a good oil pan from the engine that came with the car, and timing cover, but the other valve cover is bent on top, I will get some kind of chrome ones.  Aaron gave me these headers, but I am going to use a pair of 68 hp exhaust manifolds I have.  I also have a cleaned Edlebrock CH4B intake, and this I will prob. leave the bare aluminum, if this won't be a rustable surface,  prob. need a new air cleaner, might clean up,
  what about the support under the trans.?  where can I get that?  parts section here? 
do you have an idea where to get a good manual?  amazon or something?
RallyMike has offered to help intall engine, has been emailing me with help on this project.  I am at the point of committing to a lot more money now, dropping off engine for rebuild,  gotta get past this stuck place I am at with being motivated to go forward.   I know after this that I will prob. be putting more money than I will get back, hopefully the car will be good, the body needs work, but nothing that can't be done I guess.
 
thanks,
Nate

[SeattleCharger]

another question I have is:  why does my cleaned block have valves, the kind that have a short rod with a small disc on top, and the one I took apart doesn't seem to have these?   It has straight long rods with no disc on top, that go into the rockers. 

[CHARGERMAN2007_69]

Im just trying to help but if your gonna put chrome valve covers on it i wouldn't they will never seal i had that problem with my 400

[SeattleCharger]

Im just trying to help but if your gonna put chrome valve covers on it i wouldn't they will never seal i had that problem with my 400

Wecome to site.   Dang man,  you have some sweet cars.  I love GTX's, and Coronets are awesome, too.  You have four Mopar muscle cars?

[CHARGERMAN2007_69]

Ya there pretty cool i have 5 but who's counting

[SeattleCharger]

Ya there pretty cool i have 5 but who's counting

oops, ya, five of em, dang

[67_Dodge_Charger]

You will need to go to a salvage yard for the transmission mount frame.  Ask in the parts section here or in Moparts, someone should have what you need.  Shipping will be high for this item so I would suggest trying to find one locally.

Push rods are in the lifter valley and make contact with the cam lifters and the rocker arms.  The "rods with the disk on one end" are valves in the heads.  There are intake and exhaust valves, and are different diameters at the disk/seat. 

I would check your local  auto parts store for a repair manual.  They are basic in mechanical ability and you should be able to do most of the repairs with a standard set of tools.  Some of the repair work requires specialty tools and usually the manual states what special tool is required.  I found an extensive reprinted repair manual that for around $50 on eBay but I believe you could order from the company from their website. 

Be prepared to spend a lot of time studying the manual.  Check the car magazines for deals on parts, articles and what not.  Hemmings is a good source for parts and services so you could check out their website.  Moparts. com has a plethora (spelled it right the first time) of resources for new parts, nos parts and aftermarket in the sponsor links.  I would try to find parts from a fellow mopar nut here or Moparts.com.  Usually you can get a better deal. 

Robert

[MorePwr]

Hey, thanks Aaron.   When you put on your new wiring harness in your '69, would that be all the under the hood wiring basically?  from firewall to engine stuff?  or was it from underdash to firewall?  if that makes sense 

   

Actually it was from tail light to headlight. when I got the car it had no wiring accept battery, starter and ignition.

[SeattleCharger]

Hey, thanks Aaron.   When you put on your new wiring harness in your '69, would that be all the under the hood wiring basically?  from firewall to engine stuff?  or was it from underdash to firewall?  if that makes sense 

   

Actually it was from tail light to headlight. when I got the car it had no wiring accept battery, starter and ignition.

You must be an electrical engineer at Boeing.  You work at Boeing, right?  but I bet that is your job there

[MorePwr]

Hey, thanks Aaron.   When you put on your new wiring harness in your '69, would that be all the under the hood wiring basically?  from firewall to engine stuff?  or was it from underdash to firewall?  if that makes sense 

   

Actually it was from tail light to headlight. when I got the car it had no wiring accept battery, starter and ignition.

You must be an electrical engineer at Boeing.  You work at Boeing, right?  but I bet that is your job there

Yes and no. yes Boeing, but no not an engineer. I'm a mechanic. The wiring was simple. I pulled it out of a junk yard 68 b body something. it was close accept for the dash. that took a diagram and some head scratching.  funny thing, I just remembered..I had to go to the library to get the diagram. man things have changed

[SeattleCharger]

Hello, I was wondering what this old rusted block is worth, I put it on craigs list for 40 bucks saying the pistons are rusted in it and it is bare block and might be able to be bored .60, that it is a 72,