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More POR 15 questions

Started by bull, May 03, 2007, 02:37:04 PM

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bull

So I ran down (drove for you smart a$$e$) to the local auto paint supply store and grabbed a can of POR 15, and then I ran back and grabbed a bag of POR 15 Power Mesh and then I see this: http://www.por15.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1481/.f?sc=2&category=170 Basically it's a kit that comes with the following for $138.50:

MARINE-CLEAN™ Metal cleaner
METAL-READY™ Metal Prep
Power Mesh Fabric
POR-15® Silver
POR-15® Black
EPOXY PUTTY
CHASSISCOAT BLACK™
POR-15 SOLVENT®
All brushes needed (4)
Safety face mask
Latex gloves
Dispensing scoop
Detailed instructions

Do I need all this stuff or can I just stick with the POR 15 "black sauce" and the Power Mesh to fix the holes in my floor and trunk?

Also, they say all you need to do before putting the POR 15 on the metal is to knock off the loose scale, right? We don't want bare metal, right? So what do you use to knock off the scale? I was using an angle grinder with a wire wheel until I realized you don't want bare metal but the thought of scraping it all by hand has no appeal. Is there some middle ground here?

Doright

Well this was my question which went UN answered........ with Rust bullet

Both do basically the same thing and with all the products you have listed would do the same thing I was going to do

Metal Prep and Metal ready are both to be used on BARE metal! both products eat rust and convert it to Iron oxide but both need all the top loose stuff removed first. weather you use a wire wheel or blast its up to you.

Me I was going to blast, then treat the metal with Ospho which does the same thing as metal prep converts rust to Iron Oxide and leaves a gray black dust behind then paint over that with Rust Bullet, I think it would be cheaper but it isn't going to fill in small holes which I think you might be trying to do with the products mentioned.


Problem is Rust bullet wouldn't say it was compatable with metal ready/prep or Ospho in my case.
Metal ready/prep works the same way as Ospho and POR15 and Rust Bullet they all have enough acid to convert Rust to Iron Phosphate.

Looks like Por15 has said you can go ahead and use other rust removers with there product though and Rust bullet says just knock off the loose stuff and paint right on over the rust. call me picky but thats going to look like s----

I want too do it my way with blasting first to remove as much rust as possible treat the deep stuff blasting cant get too with a hi quality converter (Ospho) and cover it with a good rust conversion paint just to be sure and have a Nice hi quality smooth finish all at the same time.
Yep its alot more work but it's sure plan to stop the rust for a very good long time. 

Doright
A&P FCC 
I play with cars because Jets are way too serious to be fun any more
I have so many car projects that cars are beginning to be no fun any more

71charger_fan

The surface also has to be oil and grease free. I patched some holes in the trunk of my '71 using nothing but black POR-15 and fiberglass cloth. That must have been about 20 years ago now. The patches are still strong and holding up fine. I just wire-brushed the area, vacuumed it, and patched it. I put a coat of the POR around the holes and walked away and waited for it to get good and tacky. Then I stuck the cloth to the POR and added a little POR to the edges and let it set. Once that was almost dry, I soaked the rest of the cloth with POR and laid another layer of the cloth over it and gently impregnated that with the POR. I think it took three layers of cloth before all the pinholes sealed. But, again, it's been a long while.

moparguy01

to get scale off just use a wire brush. thatll knock off any of the problem scale, without going to bare metal. I still wouldnt want to use that stuff to patch a hole though..I'd try to find someone to weld a patch in.